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I would proceed with caution. It looks to me as though you're looking at a Novodiac system and not Incabloc, and that it is just the jewels and spring that are missing and not the whole setting. You may not be able to substitute the whole Novodiac setting for the Incabloc setting without some serious modification. Far simpler to buy the replacement Novodiac jewels and spring and install them with little more than tweezers, good magnification, a steady hand, a ton of patience and some good luck.

I spent the day cleaning the movement and puting it back together, can't rush as the pins are so fine and it has 3 plates. The escapment pinion is about the thinest I have ever come across (I don't do watches). Anyway have a look at the photos and ask any questions, I took more photos, however I think this is enough. Not the clenest to start with. A few of the parts. Looks a bit cleaner now, I must have filed and blued 20 odd screws. All done, ticking away nicely.

I had seen that mainsprings can be repaired when the end snaps off like that. I have never done it. However, that mainspring looks pretty well "set", and may not be applying optimal power to the train. However, if there is still good resistance power to the MS, and you did repair the end, it may just become a 7 7/8 day watch. A new spring would be best, but the lesson learned in repairing such a spring would not go to waste. With a mainspring gauge or digital calipers you should be able to get the dimensions of the size you need, i.e, thickness and width. You can stretch the spring out along the edge of a table or desk with a tape measures, or(?) to get the length. When you do this, wear eye protection, and be sure nothing is around that can be damaged if the spring takes flight on you. Good luck.

with your staking set. you can "broach" a hole, in spring or annealed spring. vin

not true. I have received both watches and clocks with a "shortened a main spring", I have shortened them. vin

The blue grease is Moebius 9501. I put it on the tip of the winding stem that fits in the hole in the movement plate and a tiny dot on all 4 sides of the square that the pinion slides up and down on and 1 or 2 dots on the teeth of the sliding pinion and 1 dot in the slot that the yoke sits in. Likewise a dot where the setting leaver locks in on the setting leaver spring. I use D5 for the pivots of the yoke and setting lever

I usually use Moebius 9501 on winding stems and winding sliding pinion, but my notes also say Molycote DX can also be used so I would go with your Molycote. Use just the tiniest amounts, mark has videos of youtube showing how to apply it.

You must remove the section of the spring the will become the loose bit before you heat the mainspring as heating the mainspring to red will anneal the spring steal so it can bend, not break. If you do not remove the bit of the spring that will become the loose bit first it would also be heated and annealed and then under tension in the barrel when the watch is would up it could buckle and let the mainspring go which would most likely damage the watch

Hmm, I know I’ve been round this question before. Is it one of these... https://basic-groupe.com/produit/technotime-fe-6120/ If not then photos might help

Yes agree with the previous two posts it is most likely the wrong gear ratio. Also noticed one side of the escape is not good.If it was me I would check the replacement wheels and then re-clean and lubricate the balance etc.

Hi Yankee been through all my lists for lift angles cannot find seiko 66 anywhere, Watch guy has a list and also the lepsi website, can find citizen 66 L/a 34 probably of no interest. SCWF web site is for seiko citizen may be worth a try but you have to register,

I did not reach so far with watching Mark's videos:

You can kill it or cure it with electrical spray contact cleaner.spray it into the gears flush out the gunk.let it dry completely.slightest bit of oil on the shaft holes.make sure the cleaner is plastic safe.forget taking the movement apart.

After my original post, I enlarged your photo and identified your movement as an Epson VX3j. The repair manual doesn't note a reset as being required after a battery replacement. Occasionally when a watch has lain dormant for a bit, the oil sets and the works won't turn. Try gently warming the movement for a few moments with a hair dryer set on low. Watchmakers have a tool that will pulse the stepping motor freeing it up. You might take it to a local watchmaker and ask if they can perform that service for you. If the movement has perished, all is not lost. The movements are both plentiful and inexpensive. With some modest tools and some patience, you can change the movement yourself. Plenty of videos are posted on YouTube showing how to do it. Try bringing this one back to life first though.

it sounds like can learn from you.