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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/19 in Posts

  1. No it's really a pretty standard movement. Looking at pics I see that some are jeweled at the center wheel and some not, the ones I've worked on have been older and non jeweled there, and in a couple of cases the center wheel upper pivot was quite worn and the bushing trashed. But otherwise it's just a very small movement. There's a good chance you might need to do a little escapement adjusting, they tend to come from the factory with fairly heavy locks and you might not get a full healthy amplitude without a little tweaking. You can't put a stronger spring in, the barrel is very small and is already struggling to give the 38 hours of power reserve. Any thicker/longer/shorter spring quickly eats up almost a full turn of wind.
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  2. Hi, Dr ranfft database provides info on wide range of calibers, family generations and some details. For future referencing, diirectly google the calib as follows Movado157 ranfft Good luck.
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  3. Too bad the one I've just shown is finished (still need some lume). But when doing the next one I'll take pics of the process and write a tutorial. I've been doing that for 2 years and the last one is the first domed dial I achieve with success. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
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  4. As it really looks like a 157 caliber (pic below) I would say YES Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
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  5. Hello From my experience the best is to use decal paper + spray varnish. Depending on your dial project I can give you some more infos about the best process. Here's an example of a negative Gilt domed dial I'm building for a vintage divers watch. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
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  6. I would say that it is in the right position, on top of the winding pinion, and where it can be tightened into its recess on the stem. Put in the stem, tighten up the detent screw, and see if the stem holds in during manipulation between winding and setting. Good luck.
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  7. Agreed. Acetone apparently will dissolve shellac. I think I might go with acetone for everything else, but use VM&P Naptha (US trade name for petroleum ether) on the pallet and possibly the balance. Now the question I have to answer is whether it makes sense to use an ultrasonic cleaner with these products.
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  8. I suspect it is the auto side is not functioning efficiently. I had the same issue with my 3135. After I service mine it worked great for a few months then it started to stop. What I did was remove the auto works re-cleaned BUT then I treated the wheels etc with Fixodrop (epilame) and then I lubricated with HP500. Since then it has run perfectly for the last couple of years and It is never off my wrist (part from bath time!!)
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  9. Seems pretty accurate from my limited observations. I just completed my first watch overhaul. An ebay lot of four vostoks, two 2409a's became one. I'm getting into watch repair because its not cost effective to get these watches fixed professionally. I got some practice pieces before I tackle my more beloved Vostoks. +1 for a Russian watch lover on this forum.
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  10. Positional error can be produced by many factors but the main reasons are to do with - Lubrication - too much can be as bad as too little. - Magnetism. Once those are resolved and the watch still shows positional error: Error between dial up and dial down: The balance staff pivots are most likely at fault. Either bent or require rounding (speeds up) flattening (slows down) Then there is side positions where the weight of the balance comes into play - this is where it is important for the balance assembly to be in poise. I say balance assembly and not just the balance wheel as the hairspring, and roller also can affect poise. There are other factors which can affect timekeeping in different positions but these are the common ones.
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