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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/19 in all areas

  1. My latest upgrade Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Tourist Watch company -> https://forums.watchuseek.com/f11/tourist-watch-company-4811801.html
    1 point
  3. Hi, If you intend to do more movements may I give a few pointers. Before doing anything to a movement, let the springs down!! Now you have no tension on the cogs/pivots you will be able to see if they have movement in the pivot holes. I read how you put the movement in petrol, I hope you took the springs out before you did this, if not you will need to take them out and grease them or they will rust. I would suggest that you learn to walk before running, as you have jumped many things you should do to get a movement in good order. The 1st is you have not cleaned the movement correctly as the pivot holes and the pivots may still have dirt in them, you need to take the movement apart! Okay, if you are only doing it for yourself that is okay, however later you say something about a " future business" if this is to do with clock repair may I suggest you join a clock club around your area and that way you can learn the right way. I do not want to sound harsh and put you off, however if it is worth doing, it is worth doing it right.
    1 point
  4. Yes, a blower will do. Just enough to get it swinging a reasonable amount.
    1 point
  5. whats the shaft look like? Is it the typical double taper bearing? Sorry to be a downer, but I don't know that there is much you can do past the bearing take up which you're tried. The shaft is likely worn so even if a part was available it likely won't mate properly. The horse is already out of the barn, but that bearing is really dirty so its not a surprise its in trouble. Those oil hole should be covered/capped to keep crude out. A hydrodynamic bearing is essentially a non contact bearing, but only if clean and oiled. Lapping a taper requires you to carefully make and properly charge a lap - no loose abrasive! Reason is that unlike lapping a cylinder where the laps moves back and forth through or over the work, with a taper, the same place on the lap is always on the same place on the taper so loose abrasive will create rings and basically mess up the geometry. With the lap as a charged cutting tool it can be done. I've an abused Schaublin 70 hiding under the bench awaiting bearing work (same style double taper as a watchmakers lathe). There is no more difficult thing to machine imo than two tapers perfectly mating to a small tolerance and high finish with everything perfectly concentric. My plan is grind the shaft, lap the shaft (custom made laps) scrape the bearing (by hand) mount the bearing on the shaft and grind the bearing OD. A big job.
    1 point
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