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First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
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often when a watch runs fast, it just needs a total clean. vin1 point
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Hi Seiko doc attached 599_Seiko7019A.pdf1 point
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clean the hairspring first. remove the whole balance assembly and dip it in brake cleaner from the auto parts store that you have sprayed into a small bowl.1 point
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Hi diagrams can be found at cousins uk Gleave and co and the Seiko site they are one of the brands with freely avaiable tech sheets. As regards the fault advice already give is prime.1 point
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Fast running with poor amplitude, the first thing I look at is the hair spring. Most common causes are; coils sticking together due to magnetism. Easy solution - demagnetize. coils sticking together due to stray oil. Easy solution - clean. coils fouling the underside of the balance cock, or the balance wheel spokes, or the hair spring stud. Not so easy as this usually means a damaged or deformed H/S.1 point
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As in the most of times if no one tinkered with the hairspring , the hair spring can be either Dirty or Magnetized. In rare cases the hair spring have become slightly deformed.1 point
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So I've desired one of these for ages. Usually they came up at the wrong time and I didn't have the money. About a month ago, a perfect one sold for $960AUD which I was jealous about. I found a faulty example in germany which was rusted and water damage. The seller kindly had enough photos to show some potential survival prognosis for this unfortunate drowning victim! It cost me just under $300, and it came without a strap. It clearly has had a hard life, however the case is near perfect. About a year ago, spare parts still came up on ebay - now not so much. I am aware that Omega don't really want to touch these and it costs stupid amounts as well. Basically I've stripped it down - can see that someone broke the wiring to the crystal. They have bodged soldered some of the contacts. The general majority of parts are there - it was only missing a crown, battery holder plate and the gasket for the caseback. The crystal has a light chip in it. Otherwise okay. (it's on the inside). The circuit board will be cleaned and retraced with tin. The motor is perfectly intact. The Movement plate is totally rusted. I have stripped it down and cleaned it and it looks like it will survive! You gotta love Swiss quality - no way that chinese parts would survive rust. I have researched and found that the 1320 cal is similar - the running gear is quite the same, the only part I broke on mine was the setting lever - which is easily sourced. I have broken one calendar retaining screw but no big deal. They were super rusted and I was lucky to get them out. My ultrasonic cleaner sadly decided to go bust - so I will have to wait to finish this job. My final step is to remove the stem from the movement hopefully. The cost of a donor 1320 is around $180 - a donor complete watch with crown is about $300. I want to at the worst case just get the analog side working - if I cant get the digital side working - no big deal - it is still a grail watch for me on a budget. As the strap is missing, my plan is to modernize it and fit a leather strap. I plan to cut a intermediate attachement piece from aluminium or steel which will sit between the strap and the case - I will also source an omega deployment clasp and make sure I brush the steel to fit the look. The leather will be thick cowhide in tan colour. It is a huge project- but luckily I have experience working with rusted calibers and also Omega. Quartz has also been my recent play area and so hopefully should be all good. At the worst case it will sit until I find a donor movement and/or crystal. I forecast a working watch for around $700 total inc. purchase price. That isn't ideal - but it isn't horrible either. We are talking Australian Dollaridoos as well which are similar par to Canadian dollars. Oh woops - I forgot that I will possible get the dial re-surfaced. Not sure - maybe not. The patina is interesting but a little rough. Who knows, lets see. If anyone has spare parts or ideas - I will kiss your feet
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Мне это нравится!1 point
