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First of all my apologies for not having documented the disassembling, but the watch arrived in a terrible condition and I stripped it down right away to get rid of all that dirt. If you have worked on some watches yet and think about entering the chronograph world with a 7734 let me give you 3 advices: Do it! The 7734 is a solid construction and not too complicated. Take your time and watch all the 6 parts of Mark's Venus 175-service on youtube. Of course the Venus is a column wheel system, but the basic movement is very similar and also on the chrono layer you can learn a lot especially about lubrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI3T-IR3AgM Download the 7734 service manual. A lot of information here: https://strela-watch.de/valjoux-7734-7733-7736-technical-documentation/ Here we go. Some 8200 for the barrel and the new mainspring goes in (got it from cousins - what I'm gonna do after Brexit? ). The complete barrel. Some D5 for the arbor. Putting in the wheels and the bridges. Lubrication: 9010 for the escape wheel and the second wheel, D5 for all others. The keyless works. 9501 for the stem and the gears. D5 for the wheels and the lever axis, 9501 for the contact points of levers and springs. The click spring. D5 for the click and the crown wheel, 9501 for the contact point of click and its spring. Finally the ratchet wheel goes in. The pallets go back in, no lubrication for the pivots. Lubricating the balance jewels with 9010. The balance back in. The escape wheel and the pallets got epilame so I let run the movement with dry pallets for some minutes. After that 941 for the pallets (work from the dial side through the window). Now I start with the chronograph. First the bridge and the spring for the levers go in. Fly back lever goes in with some D5. Operating lever, again D5 for the axis. A little bit tricky, you must upline the integrated spring with the upper lever first (9501 for the contact area). The second pictures shows the final layering. The sliding gear goes in, D5 for the lever axis, no lubrication for the wheel! At this point I forgot to put in the minute recorder runner (no lubrication). You should install it here, later its going to be more difficult. The blocking lever (D5) returns. Some 9501 for the contact area to the sliding gear. The blocking lever spring. Be very careful, this one isn't just a flyer, its a damned Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. The friction spring (gets a drop of 9010). The chronograph runner and its bridge (9010 for the long pivot and the jewel in the bridge). The minute recorder jumper, no lubrication. The hammer. D5 for the axis, 9010 for the lever ends that hit the hearts, 9501 for the contact areas to the sliding gear, fly back lever, operating lever, jumper. The hammer cam jumper. Before installing the clutch give 9010 to the pivots of the coupling wheel. D5 to the lever axis. The spring. 9501 for the contact point. Finally line up the driving wheel with the coupling wheel and the chrono layer is complete again! The dial side. Some 9501 and the cannon pinion goes in. Hour wheel with D5. The dial rest with its 3 screws. The date indicator. The date indicator driving wheel with some D5. The jumper with D5 to its axis. As there was no lubrication described in the manual between disc/jumper or disc/wheel and the parts looked well polished I didn’t lubricate. It works - let’s see how long. The guard with 2 screws. Finally the spring. The dial comes back and is secured with its 2 screws from the side. While disassembling I put the little hands into seperate trays to prevent mixing them up. Now I turned the crown in the setting position exactly to the point when the date switches and put on the hour hand to 12. Positioning the chrono-hand exactly on zero was that tricky that I forgot to take a pic. New springs and gaskets for the pushers. Unfortunatly I’m not good in restoring cases. So just refreshing the brushing a bit and some cape cod work. The movement back in the case and secured with 2 screws. A new gasket for the caseback and here we are. Thank you for watching.
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I've hot glued a large jar lid to a back before and worked perfectly, posted it here somewhere. Its quick, no danger of the glue running where it shouldn't the hot glue peels off without much trouble1 point
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Noted thanks . I just lay it on top to take some pictures. It’s back in its case now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.1 point
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.. all of the above, and check for foreign bodies obstructions that may have been introduced while cleaning. I had a small hair mysteriously appear in one watch that I was working on, which caused a similar issue. Worst of all, the watch worked reasonably well till I cleaned it. The hair was nicely attached to the top plate and dangled down when the watch was face up, obstructing the palette fork, but moved nicely out of the way when the watch was face down. The hair looked suspiciously like one of mine, but I didn't do a full DNA test.1 point
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One for the strike and one for the clock going train. For Westminster's one for the hour strike, one for the 1/4's & one for the clock going train1 point
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Gravesend! I used to live there and still work there now im in Higham1 point
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No I haven't any of the clones, just work with what I usually find in my watches. And investigate what the variations are within it's family. If you take of the auto winding you would it should be a familiar sight except the train bridge looks som different, not sure if the 2801 has the stop lever. There will be some differences in the keyless too since this movement has a quick date setting. And if I don't remember wrong 2801-2 haven't got date function. If my distorted brain isn't to hazy I think the 2804-2 is the manual winding version of this one. But their all in the same family.1 point
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Thank you for your answers guys, I just got a brain freeze when I tried to remember what the official name of the tube was. Obviously it doesn't have any as rogart63 says so I just ordered a new main plate. Guess I have to put my jeweling staking set aside to another day.....1 point
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Thank you for your help! I intended to pop a new spring in directly from the packaging washer. As a beginner, it appears that it's more cost effective (and more beginner proof) to buy new springs compared to an expensive winder. When I send my "real" watches to real watchmakers, they always replace the spring. Springs cost $20.1 point
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Not nearly as cool as many of the watches posted here, but today I'm wearing an Omega SMPc that is currently on a black with red Hirsch Robby. I like the way the red stitching matches the small amount of red on the sweep hand, but I'm probably odd. My most worn daily is a Damasko DA45, which is more unusual. Waiting to get it back from a service.
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The center screw to take the rotor of . The three screws you don't need to take of unless you are planning to replace the bearing.1 point
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Thanks for the advice, I'll research into it a bit. I love talking to the veterans of the industry. A bit of a story, I was at a train museum with a girlfriend, she was studying EE at the time. An older gent dressed in full conductor garb comes over to talk about the steam engine. He asks us what we do/ study and she says EE, I say CE, so he jokingly starts talking only to her, asking her to explain it to me. He then asked about what kind of stuff we work on, so I start explaining in simple terms and he leans in and says "at what point do I tell him I helped designed the early IBM mainframes" Damn was I embarrassed but I was very humbled. A lot has changed but not nearly enough that old and young can't find things to talk about. Sent from my SHIELD Tablet K1 using Tapatalk1 point
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Nice photos. The only person I know who is famous is Ian Gillan from Deep Purple. I used to drink with him in a pub in Lyme Regis. That was before moving to Mid Devon. He’s a hell of a nice guy.1 point
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Here it is [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
