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Hi Charlie, I did an AS 1700 myself not long ago, and I also bought a new spring, which is much easier than reusing the old one. You'll find that that holder it's supplied in is slightly smaller in diameter than the inside of the barrel. Just lay it on top (check the direction!) and push the spring carefully down into the barrel. As the spring escapes from the holder it expands into the barrel.The grease you put on the inside wall beforehand will be squeezed outwards rather than downwards. I wasn't sure how to describe the right amount of grease, so I looked for a video on you tube and found this one - Classic Watchmaking: Barrel Wall Lubrication. He greases the barrel wall right at the end. The answer it seems is a HUGE amount! Certainly much, much more than I put in. Maybe some of our more experienced members can offer their opinions.

I’m always wary of signing up for free downloads, but you can get the tech sheet from Cousins which is another source of the info above https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/2175_Bulova 11BLA etc.pdf They also have the escape wheel in stock

Its a bit of a disappointing book actually it's mainly just a list of old lathes from various manufacturers and their specifications, but doesn't explain much in the way of using a lathe any other De Carle book I would rate but not that one, there's is plenty on youtube to watch about watchmakers lathes.

Thanks for all the advice guys! One more question, anyone have a good beginners lathe book recommendation? Watchmaker's and model engineers lathe by Donald Lecarle seems popular and easy to source Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk

If it somehow rusted inside the spindle to bearing area, where there is almost 99.99% chance of there being at least oil residue, while remaining pristine looking everywhere else, that'd be odd. But the contact area of these bearings is so massive relative to the actual size of the machine I'd be surprized that just cleaning off the rust wouldn't get it back in service true as can be.

if it is from a Wet climate, may be rusty in side, that is hard to repair. vin

YES. thats what we are here for, best to check it, save the repair work. vin

And exactly when did necessary enter into a reason to purchase yet another watch when we already have multiples? As old fashioned as it sounds, I use my blinkin' phone for just that. Any social networking is still done the old fashioned way, one handshake at a time while making eye contact. If I allowed need to dictate my watch purchases, I would still own one Timex watch. Yeep! I just took an quick inventory and I'm far too embarrassed to post that number publicly.

A funny one arrived today.

Found this for you to download. https://www.scribd.com/doc/248481432/Bulova-Interchangeable-Parts-Catalog-Fastest

The assumption is correct BL, BLA, BLAC, BLACD is all based on the 11AL and seems to have the same balance.

Bergeon 30421 are escapement files The two boxes are the complete Incabloc system pieces split up in there boxes they come with a chart which you use as a reference when it comes to replacing the parts. I know this because I had the identical boxes.

Yes looks like a vice jaw. I'll point out that this type of lathe is very easily adjustable for play in the bearings. So if after running it with a fine oil you find its a little sloppy don't worry.

The data is on the ranfft website.All kinds of neat info there. 1686's are perfectly good movements, they aren't very pretty but they work well. They are also later production than most mechanical movements and all things being equal they are generally less worn out. BTW I got those dimensions reversed, my bad. As for your case search look for older non working watches with 1187/94 movements, the dials stems and hands are a direct swap with the 1686.All stainless steel cases screw down backs round crystals. Have fun.

I have found quite a bit of cross pollination in AS movements.There are for example many parts that interchange between the 1187 and the 1686.check to see what the hole sizes are on the hands..if they are the same there is a more than fair chance that the hour wheels are the same.

Good news: There are many choices for that hour wheel height, but remember "bestfit" doesn't always mean a direct swap. I would start with the AS movements as they are plentiful, then try the Benrus, Cupillard, and Elgin hour wheels. J

Found one of these on a Baumgartner movement (158?) installed in a Sicura. It is tricky to work with it but not if you improvise a bit. In situations where parts might jump around and get lost I place the movement in a transparent plastic ziplock bag and then work on the movement like that. One advantage of the bag is that you can use it like some sort of rodico (minus the sticking part) and press lightly on the components at hand so that they won't move or jump around. You can already insert one of the feet into the recess by sliding it in/underneath and when you do that try to position the 2nd foot into the spaced out slot that allows it to fit inside/underneath the incabloc system. Then rotate and do the same with the third. That's how I did it.