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I keep my watches in a cardboard box from IKEA (Yes, I'm Swedish). When I see an interesting watch on eBay, I buy it, service it (if I have the time), and wear it (if serviced) for a while. It then goes into the cardboard box. I've been meaning to inventory that cardboard box for a long time, but for fear of finding too many watches (is there such a thing?) I've been putting it off. Anyway, today was D-day, and I took a picture of each. Most of them were bought on eBay but not all. Some I have built and/or modified myself. I haven't yet written any documentation, but please feel free to ask if you see anything that catches your eye. BTW, the Panerai is fake! I don't like fake watches. I don't wear them, I don't buy them (anymore), and I don't sell them. Oh, and there is another one on its way from Moscow; a vintage Vostok Radio Room Amphibia (can't wait for it). I'll list it first. Hope you'll enjoy!

Hello all - my name is Matt, I’m a new hobbyist from the Pacific Northwest. I got into working on watches because I wanted to relume a 1940’s Wittnauer. Funnily enough, I haven’t gotten around to that original project yet. My first serious project has been restoring a Clebar Big Eyes Chrono from the 70’s. I got it for $20 in non-working condition, some rust, missing a pusher, and a cracked crystal. I’ve since cleaned the movement, replaced a couple rusted parts, replaced the pushers, new crystal, and new gaskets all around. I did relume the dial and hands (with Noctilumina). Waiting on a BoR bracelet to complete the project. My current project is restoring a 17j Tudor ETA 2784 and building a watch around it. Might be a long term project as I assemble the parts but that’s okay. Look forward to the community here!

You can tighten it but seldom will it work any good. Best is to find a new 4F part. Did i say i hate this parts. Probably works when it's new but after some years it's always worn and can't be repaired. Thank god that some manufactures use a normal cannon pinion.

Either of those oils would be fine, for the pinion to wheel junction and for the post it sits on. ETA calls for a heavier grease between pinion and wheel but my experience is HP1300 works great.

In short ... yes. I have located this document for you which may be of use: http://www.phfactor.net/wtf/Bulova and Caravelle/Bulova 11ANAC, D, B.pdf. The part reference in this document you're interested in is '4 F'. Read for instance the 'Train side' instructions on page 3 which refers to it.

Found this vid showing a technic how to micro drill without breaking the drill.

As I understand it you had problems in the third position which sets the time. The tension to get a correct action is set by the spring rogart63 told you about earlier. If you haven't put the spring on the lever it will akt strange. Quick date adjust should be in the middle position. I attach a photo so you can check.

The headstock of the Unimat 3 is solid. The spindle nose is threaded 14x1mm

Well done! I’ve just read this now.....when you posted I was at 28,000ft on the way back from the Canaries! But it’s so much more satisfying when you solve it yourself!! Best wishes

I like the nice clear dial.