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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    HSL

    Radon Hazards of Luminous Timepieces

    Just by a chance I happen to work at a company dedicated to handle low, medium and high level radioactive waste. I haven't really followed this discussion before about 226Ra (Radium) but can only agree in the conclusion Andy has presented here. As long you wear good protection like nitrile gloves and don't lick on the dial or at your fingers after you handled the dial or hands you shouldn´t be worried. As with any hazardous material one should use common sense when handling it. A simple respiratory mask will be enough protection if you are afraid you are in the risk zone to inhale 226Ra. Even if you have had protective gloves when handling the dial or hands always wash of your hands with soap and water. I usually leave the residues of 226Ra on the dial after a slight cleaning of the dial with Rodico. Most often it goes away from the dial hands when cleaning them and therefore gets stuck in the Rodico. If you worry about the radiation from the residues on the Rodico: then just put it in a jar with water. Water is a good protection against radiation and we also use it as protection when handling high level waste from nuclear plants. The small amount from one or two watches will not contribute as any source for radiation that significantly will affect any living been. One have to keep in mind when it comes to the thing with "The radium Girls", back in the time some people still believed radium was a miracle cure for anything and they didn't see any harm in painting not only their teeth but also use it as makeup. Radium is a poisonous chemical. 226Ra mostly contributes with alpha and beta radiation which has a short reach and limited penetration ability, the small amount of gamma radiation one get from a watch is very hard to detect since the background radiation in the most cases is probably higher. To detect alpha and beta radiation from radium you have to use specialized equipment calibrated to 226Ra. These instruments are not commonly available at Ebay. Just buying a cheap gamma detector which is not calibrated for the use to check your watches is in my mind just a waste of money since the most people haven’t got any training in how to use them or the understanding in how to interpret the results from the measurements. So just be cautious and aware when handling this kind of watches and I think the most of you can sleep without worrying about radiation hazards even if you like me are collecting watches from the time period when dials were painted with Radium. P.S If you see something like in the picture below in your watch then you should be a little more cautious.
  2. 1 point
    AlamedaMike

    1930s or 40s New Haven

    Just a couple of pics of a recent service. Ran the movement in cleaning fluid for a week with a couple of fluid changes. Lots of crud came off. Polished the crystal and case, polished up a vintage band. Oiled and running like a champ now.
  3. 1 point
    HSL

    Stereo Microscope

    I use an Carl Zeiss Stemi DV4 Stereo Microscope to inspect the jewels with, before I used it as one is supposed to but nowadays I have become a bit lazy and put a cheap USB camera on the ocular. Took me 22 minutes to make it with a 3D printer. One can get quite a nice picture on a computer screen with a setup like that and even take one odd picture on for example a cap jewel.
  4. 1 point
    Guess you got some sunshine were you live this is how it looks like on the dark side of the moon where I live...
  5. 1 point
    the single edge ( safety razor ) allows you to tap on the back with a jewelers hammer. this should open the seam for a wedge' vin
  6. 1 point
    Pip

    Seiko S-261 opinions?

    Ok, according to the casing guide that's a Snap3 case. I've attached the relevant extract from the casing guide which shows how it all goes together. It does come out the back. Best bet is some jury rigged razor blades, but careful of your fingers! I'd put it in a very sturdy movement holder and study all the way round under magnification to see if there are any places that look hopeful, then carefully wiggle a razor blade under a bit of pressure. Put tape on the closest parts of the case so hopefully you won't scratch it if the blade slips. Where in the world are you by the way? Snap3.pdf
  7. 1 point
    ecodec

    Radon Hazards of Luminous Timepieces

    Hi Clockboy, Years ago was doing business at a nuclear power station, I was wearing my Dad`s old Certina watch which set the radiation alarm off whilst going through a gate. I was advised not to wear it !!
  8. 1 point
    Endeavor

    Poljot 31659 Chronograph service.

    I bought from an ex. Poljot salesman, this undisturbed Shturmanskie "classic" with a Poljot 31659 movement. The Poljot 31659 movement is almost identical to the Poljot 3133 movement, but it has an additional balance-hack. The watch has never been used, never been worn, just sitting in a drawer waiting to see, after all those years, daylight again. Before it gets wrist-time, a service was overdue. The "pop-off" the back-lid was anything but "pop-off". The provided slot was of not much use and I ended up driving carefully a scalpel-knife in between the lid and the housing seam; slowly creating a gap big enough to insert a blunt knife. Even then, it took a huge force to get the lid to "pop-off". Needless to say, the nice, nearly virgin lid has now its first unavoidable marks. The light surface scratches on the lid are very minor, but appear more severe on the picture due to the light reflection. The Plexiglass crystal is scratch free, but has some minor aging-cracks. The inside reveals an undisturbed 31659 movement, with 2-88 stamped in the chronograph bridge. February 1988, that's to date exactly 29 years. I took the movement out, removed the hands and dial. This time the small seconds- and minute recording-hands came off unharmed. However I wasn't that lucky with the big chronograph seconds recording hand. It was so tight, that even with great care, in the end the hand stripped off its pipe-bushing With the hands and dial out of the way, I managed to get the pipe bushing of the pinion without any further damage. As you can see on the picture, The outer ring has one screw missing, so has the calendar center plate ....... I guess the factory worker in 1988 didn't feel like it that day!? Can we still find out ? Stripped the calendar works; Stripped the keyless works, flipped movement over and removed balance assembly and pallet fork. One can just see the hack appearing from underneath the barrel bridge; see arrow; Time to disassemble the chronograph components. Even though for a 31659 one has to deviate from the guide slightly during assembly, I can highly recommend this service guide made by WUS member SLLS on June 2015. Click on the link below to download. Thank you very much SLLS for you excellent and clear servicing guide Service Guide Poljot movement 3133.pdf Remember to re-insert all the screws in their respective holes after removing the component. A bit more work, but it makes life during re-assembling so much easier !! See service guide for part-numbers, additional pictures and guidance. First the Hammer (8220) followed by the hammer-cam-jumper (8356). Before removing the operating lever (8140), I lifted the spring on top of the rivet. This prevents the lever from popping out after the LH-screw is undone, but also makes the installment much easier. Obviously, the spring has to be put back after re-installation. Removal of the operating and fly-back lever-spring (8335), fly-back lever (8180), blocking lever (8200), Blocking lever spring (8335) and sliding gear (8100). Left is the chronograph plate (8281) with all screws inserted in their respective holes. Next the chronograph plate (8281), the Chronograph bridge (8500), the seconds recording wheel (8000), the friction-spring (8290) and the minute recording wheel (8020). According to the guide, the very delicate minute recording jumper (8270) is removed, but I left it in place. If you also leave it, be very aware during subsequent handling of the barrel-bridge !! Next is the coupling clutch spring (8320) and the coupling clutch (8080). This has stripped most of the chronograph components, apart from the chronograph drive wheel (or wheel over 4th wheel if you like); Next is the ratchet wheel (415) and the barrel-bridge (105). Now the hack-lever can be seen. The little spring at the end is very delicate ..... Next is the 3th wheel (210) which has to be carefully manipulated from underneath the center-wheel. This reveals a plate (no number) for the 3th wheel which has to be removed. Instead of pulling the chronograph drive wheel (wheel over 4th wheel), to reduce risk I removed the whole assembly; the train wheel bridge (110), 4th wheel (225) and driving wheel (8060). Be aware of the long pivot on the 4th wheel ! As soon as the train wheel bridge is undone, the escape wheel (705) comes free. Spring barrel, cannon-pinion and center wheel as last. Left is the bare main-plate. The main-spring seemed in a good shape; Time to clean all the parts and lubricate the balance cap-stone in the main-plate. I use Rodeco as a support. Once to small droplet of oil is on the cap-stone, I turn the Rodeco top-down and insert the cap-stone in the chaton. Works very well for me As far as I can see, next to an additional recess in the main-plate, the only difference between the 31659 and the 3133 are these two components. The setting lever has an additional post and the additional hacking-lever. To the left of the hacking-lever the tiny spring which pushes against the balance wheel when engaged. Next up the servicing of the barrel-bridge with click (425) & click-spring (430) and crown-wheel (420). The little screws holding the crown wheel core (423) are known for shearing off, so be careful if you decide to proceed with this step ... Now I had to deviate from the guide. Due to the fact that the hacking lever engages onto the additional setting lever post, I installed the keyless works first; Flipped the main-plate over and installed the center wheel, the complete 4th wheel assembly with escape wheel and 3rd wheel plate (left arrow). Before installing the 3rd wheel, it is now to lubricate the jewel of the 3rd wheel; Install 3rd wheel, barrel and hacking-lever; Make sure the hacking lever is engaged onto the additional setting lever post; Install barrel bridge, make sure 3rd wheel finds its jewel and ensure all the gears are running smoothly before tightening the screws. Lubricated pivot jewels and pallet stones. Install pallet fork & bridge, check correct working and install ratchet wheel. Thereafter I did the calendar works and check functionality. Now a little lesson I've learned: I left the keyless works in the time-setting mode. Later I couldn't get the balance wheel to seat properly ?? So, if you later, during assembling of the balance assembly, wonder why you can't get the balance wheel to seat, better is the retract the hacking lever by setting the keyless works in the winding position. That does help ! After some scratching my head (see above), the balance wheel was back in and the movement came alive Lubricated the balance-bridge cap-stone. No parts reference number mentioned for re-assembling; Replaced the coupling clutch, the coupling clutch spring, minute recording wheel, friction spring, seconds recording wheel and chronograph bridge; Re-installed the chronograph plate, sliding gear, blocking lever spring, blocking lever, fly-back lever, fly-back lever spring, operating lever (remember to put the spring on top of the lever back under the rivet after replacement !), hammer and hammer cam jumper ....... Tested and all chronograph functions are working fine. The initial amplitude is a bit low, around 270 degrees dial down (?), but I'll let it run for a while to see if that improves ..... I managed to get the chronograph seconds-recording-hand back on its pipe-bushing, but time will tell if that holds. Also closing the watch case will require a hand-press ...... not a simple "pop-on" ........ this phenomena has been reported by more people .... Hope that this Poljot 31659 movement walk-through is of any use? ....... else it will be a nice reference for myself That was enough adrenaline again Regards: Roland.
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