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Hi everyone! thanks for the letting me join. A few years ago I promised my wife that I should repair her two old pocket watches that had been in her family for years, so now I try to learn as much as possible :). Have bought some watches to practice on and some tools to use, slowly learning and in some years I think that they will be serviced and running. Living in Sweden in a small house some woodworking machines in the basement and a homemade pizza oven in the garden. thanks again Robert E

Välkommen Robert!

Here is a guide I made. Firstly it looks like your old movement is 2 Hands, secondly your date disc looks damaged so I would reuse it. Secondly I would strongly recommend replacing it with a 956.112 rather than a 956.114. 956.112 is 95% the same, completely interchangeable, it is simply the updated version and therefore a better movement. If you had a power extension lead from 1990, you wouldn't replace it with a new old stock extension lead also from 1990. The movement will be old and the oil likely to be gummed up. The new version will be fresh and manufactured within the last year or two. 956.114 will be second hand and/or have been sitting in stock for 15-25+ years. Finally your movement is likely to be standard height unless the dial looks unusually thick so not need to worry about this.

Oh, I alredy got one, medal that is. You surely fixed many mechanicals with same issue.

I havn,t seen a pic of the movement. If its got day or even date, the day jump works can very well be the fault, advance time by 12 hrs = swith day& night around, it then should loose 20 min day time and go accurate at nights.

If I could chime in on soldering piezo elements. 1) Use plenty of flux. 2) Use leaded solder. 3) Use plenty of flux I have also used solder paste in the past, which has flux built in, but this is not necessary. Search ebay for "mechanic solder paste". The trick is to prepare everything in advance, work fast, since the element is heat sensitive, and apply some good quality flux (you can never have too much flux). Pick up one of the cheap flux pens (also from ebay) and use that if you don't already have some suitable flux. Place the piezo element on some bluetac or rodico. Tin the end of the wires you are using, and cut the tinned end to about 1 to 1.5mm in length, not any longer. Hold the wire in place with another bit of bluetac (not attached to the disk though), and move it till it sits exactly where you want it. Hold the soldering iron on the wire, just long enough to transfer in enough heat to melt the pre-tinned wire, the pre-applied flux and the solder paste, or solder to get them to melt. Remove the iron, and let the solder re-solidify. The whole operation should take perhaps a couple of seconds. Clean any flux residue off with isopropanol or surgical spirit and an old toothbrush. Job done. As you might have gathered I've played this game a few times before. https://stm32duino.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1329&p=17153&hilit=piezo+elements#p17153 BTW the piezo elements also are available pre-wired, so you can save yourself the challenge, by spending a few cents more. Finally, don't pay more than a few cents for the elements. They are cheap as chips on ebay if you search carefully, as are electret, ceramic and magnetic microphone elements.

Oh, and remember to make it stainless! Most of the material I work with is carbon steel as it’s more common for clock making work.

You shouldn’t have much difficulty in getting someone to do this if you can find the right person. If I had more time then I’d offer to do it, but I certainly don’t. It would be quite simple to make on the lathe with some rod.

Just got back home from a Sunday dinner. The part is hardened like a knife edge, the file don't bite on it. But as everyone knows a Sunday dinner is the mother of all ideas,especially when you suffer from a restless brain syndrome. I took a deep dive into my sea of never ending spare parts and found what I was looking for, A ratchet wheel with the exact dimensions of the square hole. So for now I just tried to grind of the teeth to see how hard the material is to work with and it seems reasonable. Tomorrow I will continue working on it with proper tools and less food in my belly. Thanks for all the inspiring suggestions, guess when it comes to rare old movements the solution is the file and the lathe.

Thank you for all the commendation and thank you very much for your analysis @guidovelasquez ! What kind of editing would you recomand? At the moment I simply use the "narrow" filtering from watch-o-scope. I did not completely understand your last post. What do you mean by 50 hz network? I will try to pad the stand more efficiently! I life close to a very busy road and sometimes the whole table vibrates if a truck passes by. Maybe thats an extra factor apart from HD or Fan noises.