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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You can swap the date wheel from the old movement.
  2. 1 point
    Correct. You can change the date wheel because the only difference is in the direction that the numbers were printed on the wheel. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. 1 point

    Loose roller on new balance staff

    I googled a bit for ”hole closing punches” and the method appears mainly used for closing worn pivot holes in brass clock plates. Which is obviously a quite different thing than working on a tiny roller from a wristwatch movement that , as pointed out, may be made from a much harder material and may split rather than give away. If there’s experience out there from this specific item, please chime in as I’m interested in arguments in any direction. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. 1 point

    Help needed for some advice....

    I have been retired for many years. Back in the 70’s and 80’s you could buy these case tubes for buttons from suppliers, If you bought a new button for the case it came with a new tube. What you have said and providing you have the tools and skill it will work.
  5. 1 point

    Custom Build using Venus 170

    Okay, I'm really excited to see how this plays out- I'll be checking back often. I will say it's a tall order to produce a watch in the end that looks better than that Aristo though! Good luck- and please keep posting!
  6. 1 point
    Just from the pictures, I suspect a little cleaning and corrosion removal would get that working. If you look under at the bottom of the cell holder, you will see some interesting "metal salts", if you carefully remove the screw to the left, clean all of that till it is shiny and replace the screw, then try it again, you my be rewarded with a working watch. It may in fact be the case that the left hand tab is simply missing, and replacing that with a piece of suitable thin plated brass or copper cut to size (from some other cheapo quartz) might get it working too. Quite a number of the quartz movements I've acquired as "freebies" when purchasing other watches were similarly afflicted. A brass or fiberglass scratch pen, or even some fine grit emery paper will help remove the tarnish, be careful not to get any of the debris in the mechanism as even the tiniest particle of grit could prove fatal if it gets in the gears. If you have a multimeter, then put it on resistance (or diode check) and briefly place one probe on the +ve tab and one on the -ve if you see no reaction, then you have a break somewhere, but if you get a high resistance, then you are probably making progress. Bear in mind these things sip tiny amounts of current, somewhere in the order of 10μ A or less, so the resistance measurement likely to be correspondingly high. The coils blocks alone, are usually of the order of 1 kΩ to 10 kΩ. In other words, connecting your multimeter and expecting to see the current being drawn is a forlorn hope, unless you have a specialist meter that can measure in the μ A to p A range, but resistance measurement is an easier task.
  7. 1 point

    Help needed for some advice....

    This is a great project. I've heard that those old Seiko tubes couldn't be replaced but always figured there must be a way if you had the right tools and a bit of talent. I think someone else did the same job a while back and put together a document on it but I've long ago lost the links. I did a similar job to a chronograph cases a while back which had stripped out threads for the pushers. Like you I used stainless steel tubing and turned it down on a watchmakers lathe (Peerless 8mm). It wasn't too much work but it did take time- the RPMs need to be kept low and a carbide graver worked the best.
  8. 1 point

    Loose roller on new balance staff

    If you are doing that sort of job then you must have a staking set,use a domed punch to close the hole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point

    Watch case size

    Almost certainly no such chart exists. Notwithstanding that a lot of cases don't have an ID on to start with, watch manufacturers will have designed their cases to fit their choice of movement-with-dial so there is no need/incentive to have some industry wide 'bestfit' chart. Important dimensions can always be found on a great resource like ranfft. Here you can find your movement and its key attributes (click on the Comments about the data link on a ranfft page to get help on what the terms mean if you need to). If you find the dimensions for your movement and then were to find a case that was designed to house a different movement but that has the same (or very nearly the same) dimensions then there's a good chance your movement will fit. The 'wildcard' however can be the dial e.g. the outside dimension of a 11.5''' movement is typically 26mm but the dial on it could be anything upwards of this and vary by several mm from manufacturer to manufacturer depending on their design of their watch.. With this in mind it might be helpful to understand what exactly you're trying to do e.g. what specific movement you have; what is the dial width; and when you say 're-case' are you trying to find a replacement case etc.?
  10. 1 point
    I have an Electrical Engineering degree and this would scare me. Don't like those written logic problems...If Jane has 2 dolls and Mary has 5 then when Mary gives Jane one doll, what is Jane's birthday. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point

    Some Of My Watch Lathes

    I honestly don't know how many lathes I have. About 5 years ago it was over 70. Counting Turns and Jacot lathes I am sure the number is well over 100. Some of the real expensive ones such as the larger size Derbyshire and Levin instrument lathes, a double pedestal Boley production Lathe and several more Levin WW (8mm and 10mm) lathes were not in the pictures. I also have two Sincere lathes. One I bought brand new years ago and another I purchased recently that is going to have to be restored. If I have time I will post pictures of these at a later date. I have been collecting these for the past 45 years and have no interest in selling them; at least not for several more years. david
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