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Hi All, Something to brighten up a gloomy day! Picked up this absolutely stunning old Tudor 9ct gold recently. According to the previous (original) owner it had barely been out of the box in his ownership since it was presented to him in the 1970s as a long service award (happily for future owners it wasn't engraved). Original strap (transferred off for now in favour of something more my taste), signed buckle, signed crown, and all of the original box and paperwork in absolutely mint condition. You can tell it's hardly been worn when you wind it and adjust the hands, it still feels really 'tight' (but not too much as to indicate an issue!). Can't imagine there's too many out there that has all this in such fine condition. Very pleased with this find!

Cheap Chinese you said ... cheap Chinese it is. DG 2813 ... DG meaning Dixmont Guang Zhou ... or nothing as there are certainly multiple manufacturers. You can find stems on the net but the problem is you could pay $9 for the stem only and $16 for the complete movement. Depending on where you live some close forum member could send you one (I'll check my drawers and I'll tell you). Another problem is : do you have the crown ? If you don't have the crown ... I'm not certain that watch deserves the effort and money you could put in. If you still have the crown and your mate really likes it you could swap the movement and put a better one inside : - Miyota 8215 ($50 and you can keep the same handset) reasonnable choice - 2836 clone ($90 and you must source a matching handset so spend more $) the best choice in my opinion if your mate wants to keep the watch ... don't forget you will have to modify the dial's feets. - wait for a used ETA2892-2, source a matching handset and put that in the watch case ... then search for a 1120 Omega rotor so that that fake Omega watch can have a faxe Omega movement inside ... I'm just kidding of course But, once again, the question is "does that watch deserves the money and work ?" You should show us the face and some details.

Watch for me today is this lovely vintage Oris that I gave a little going over last night. Slightly on the smaller side for my personal taste but a nice old watch nonetheless.

Here's the one with the added ring. Customer had a case he wanted to use for sentimental reasons and fit a vintage monopusher chrono in. Not the best pic but only one I have. Movement was old enough to be pin setting you can see the added pin next to crown.

Indeed ... sort of

Please excuse my gorilla arms!!!

I think if you try to shrink fit it it will break, if not upon installation then down the road from being under tension. As above, a gasket or glue are the usual ways to install. Be wary when cutting away the inside of your back as you get toward the tapered sides you will lower the level of the glass, possibly crashing into the movement. On one odd customer request I once added a pressed in stainless ring to the opened back which blended in and added the necessary height.

Here comes a surprise IWC Shaffhausen Watch Co.. Flatline Quartz.. Have I gone over to the dark side.. No curiosity killed the cat but not me, something with the high end quarts still resembles an mechanical movement, it just misses an escapement and balance otherwise you find a 7 juvel train bridge and a nice movement work. The powerhouse is an IWC C.2250 with the stamp of V8 promising an roar when applied on the wrist. I have seen the V8 sign is associated with Tissot but it pops up on al the modern quarts movements and mechanical movements I have looked at lately, what does it stand for?

Hop on over to this website and they have all the information you need https://crystaltimes.net/

Not exactly a service manual but it does show where the parts go. Citizen 8110-1.pdf

Doesn't the triple slot screw indicate that it is reverse threaded and requires unscrewing in a clockwise direction?

Good afternoon, I felt like I HAD to register and comment having found this doc online. Wow. I was desperately looking for some images of an FL movement very similar to this one as I am currently in the process of re-assembling one (my first movement assemble pretty much from scratch), never in my dreams did I think I was going to stumble upon a doc like this, which basically takes me though re-assembling the thing step by step! I plan to use this doc extensively throughout this little project Thanks SO much.

Now, except for the Unitas 6498, which can be found in many inexpensive Nastrix pocket watches on eBay, I've been using Russian movements to learn watch servicing and repairing. To the best of my knowledge and experience, these Russian movements are some of the most affordable on the market. In some cases, like with the Poljot 2614.2h, the Russians have copied Swiss movements and have adjusted them to be more rugged. There's a really cool article about it here. An interesting aspect of these movements is that they have their roots in the era of the Soviet Union, meaning that the movements were not the result of a free market, but ordered by the Russian state to provide the masses with a way to tell time. As a result, these movements were designed so that they could be serviced using just tweezers, a couple of screwdrivers, and a bit of watch oil. Ideal for any beginning watch repairer. As an indication of their affordability, a brand new 32 Jewel Automatic Vostok calibre 2416B is about $40 (and if you buy 10 or more $33). On eBay, you can find fully working Russian watches, that more than likely need service, for less than $20 with free shipping. My favourite brand is Vostok (sometimes spelt Wostok, Boctok, or восток) especially the Komandirskie and Amphibian models. It was this video that got me into Amphibians. Vostok, Poljot, and Raketa are the big Russian brands. Needless to say, I'm very fond of Russian watches and movements, and although the appreciation for them isn't that great on WRT (yet), there is a pretty large community found on the F10 forum on watchuseek.com. These watches are also very easy to customize and many do.

D5 is a mineral based oil, effectively molybdenum disulphide in a carrier, of a certain viscosity (approximately 1300centistokes) there can be inconsistencies batch to batch due to the nature of the substance. HP1300 is a fully synthetic lubricant that should be consistent batch to batch due to the manufacturing process. For the cost of a 2ml bottle of the appropriate lubricants, and their long life, is there a reason not to use the correct substance? D5 is now relegated to very specific tasks in my workshop, usually for lubricating tools :-) Tom