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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/18 in all areas

  1. Well that's sorted, I now know exactly what I will be buying my mother in law for Christmas!
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  2. Hi All, I just came across this thread, did not see this one.....I am ashamed to say that this was ME, this was my first and LAST Haller clock!! I got this from an auction and when I got it home, I could not wait to try it out to see if it worked.. At the time I was only into the restoration of French slate clocks, so this was a new one for me. I set it up and tried to wind, but it was fully wound, so started the balls going and it worked. I wanted to see that it worked OK before stripping down to clean it, as it was a tad grubby and I like to tinker... After about twenty minutes it stopped, perhaps it needs a drop of oil I thought,..BIG MISTAKE!!! I started to undo the 4 nuts on the backplate, un-be known to me this also held the mainspring in place. what a stupid setup, no warning not to remove. Well this is how I gave it the name of The German Time Bomb, because it went BOOOM it exploded very loud, and the plastic mainspring wheel after it shot out and broken into lots of pieces, it embedded in my chest, I also got a nasty cut on my hand, I was very lucky, if that had hit me in the eye, I dread to think what would have happened. The photo doesn't show all the bits of the mainspring, there were lots!!...Lessons were learnt that day.. Strange I read there was another that exploded on someone's mantlepiece about a week later, this was just sitting there and suddenly went, there was glass everywhere from the dome...My clock went in the dustbin never to be seen again.. I remember later I put the dome off mine on ebay and got more for that than I paid for the clock!! As I said lesson learned!!!!!! I will stick to my French and carriage clocks, a little safer!! Len
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  3. I've seen one on catawiki some time ago ... sold for about $100 ... with the bezel Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
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  4. Thank you. I just completed the wheel train and it spins freely.
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  5. Maybe it doesn't have a bushing or jewel. There is many movements where the bearing is in the plate.
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  6. I use 99% iso alcohol on a stick of pith. End of stick cut to a wedge shape, dip in alcohol, blot on paper, then swipe over the hand. I wouldn't do it on painted hands or hands with recessed lume, those it's dry clean pithwood and nothing more.
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  7. I have made this comment many times, for some reason vintage seiko's have low amplitude. Providing it is about 200 + then it will run just fine.
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  8. Really nice watch. By the look of the dial I suppose it is the « GMT » model, so finding the right bezel will be almost impossible. Did you loose or broke the bezel or did you got the watch without it ? Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
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  9. Seikos don't generally achieve a great amplitude, which I guess you probably already know. Looking at your video, you really need to see it in slo-mo. However, I can see two main static points which are fairly close to each other which suggests the amplitude possibly isn't that far from 180 degrees.
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  10. It's an oddball, for sure. I'm guessing you found this in Switzerland (looks like Swiss workshop color and window there!); it wasn't uncommon for machinists to make simple machines like this from base castings as part of their schooling some years ago. It's probably a quite good machine and w-20 collets and tooling are plentiful , much easier to find than what one would imagine for this size machine, w-12. It's odd they chose 65mm as the center height, and it makes it hard to adapt Schaublin 70 slides and whatnot, though Schaublin did make a 65mm machine as well. One thing for sure, it's not Schaublin.
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  11. Today I am in a hurry but here comes a quick shot of my watch of the day..Another Mondia. It has a AS/ST 1950/51 under the hood. Enjoy..
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  12. You can join the NAWCC website forum and discuss clocks free of charge there are many people just like this site that would be happy to help you with your clock you dont have to be a paid up member of the NAWCC. And any new clock helps those members who are compiling a database of serial numbers The logo on your clock is of a style commonly used between 1914 to 1934 which is really the tail end of Gustav Becker production and encompasses the time when Junghans took control of the company, which is also the time serial numbers went awry and away from the linear numbering system used before, the backplate also has a letter M stamped on the right hand side this is significant and will also allow those in the know to determine the age of the clock. Junghans took control of GB in 1926 and serial numbers reset starting from number 1 on Westminster chime clock's and 400 day clocks so I would say your clock is a very early Junghans ownership period Westminster chime clock made at the Freiburg factory . Regarding the striking on your clock if you open the Bezel at the front check to see if there is a cut out along the edge of the dial with a little lever this will be the silent strike switch. The P14 number on the clock refers to the correct pendulum length to be used with the clock I think this is a metric measurement so would be a 14cm pendulum.. I hope this will help you with your clock.
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  13. My little contribution to this page.........
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