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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/18 in all areas

  1. All going to plan I will be picking up my Christmas present to myself tomorrow, a Longines 30LS in a 9K gold BAUME case. I'm getting it for a very reasonable price as I am buying it from a watchmaker I know and it is a watch he has had for a number of years. It will need a new band, but other than that is good and keeping time within a few seconds a day. I do love the gold chatons for the jewels in the movement too. I cant decide if the winding knob is original or not, as I have seen this model of watch with a slimmer winding knob and with ones like this, but it does look a bit chunky to me on the watch, so I may replace it if its not original.
    2 points
  2. Hi Dan. I have a Weishi and it works great. You certainly don't need to be a rocket scientist to use it but there is quite a bit you should learn about. Beat errors, lift angles positional adjusting.There is a great video here on how to regulate watches. But if you really want to get into it, there is a great book called Practical Watch Adjusting by Donald De Carle. You can buy it on Amazon. Good luck.
    2 points
  3. Today was NWD (New watch day). I received a Seiko Sumo from a friend to live with for a while. What an excellent friend he is too. It's going to be a while before I take this one off. ;-)
    1 point
  4. What gets me is this....the case says movado but not the dial?this strikes me as odd.would a premium watch manufacturer put a no name dial on the watch? I think you have a mismatch here.it is entirely possible that dial was taken from a non movado movement..and just put in that case because it happens to fit. The movement maybe an AS an ETA or even a jeambrun. When I get a chance next week I will look a few of my subdial watches and see what possible movement could fit that dial
    1 point
  5. This has been my watch of today pretty much every day since i bought it a couple months back! 70s Tissot Navigator Chronograph:
    1 point
  6. Did you use the stem from the old movement? Is the new one the exact same caliber? Or did you use the new stem and possibly trim it to length? My first guess is it's slightly too short and it's not going back all the way. Try out of the case.
    1 point
  7. My guess is a snap back, the odds of having the wordings aligned nicely are against it being a screwback. Anilv
    1 point
  8. I also found out something more about the dial and my suspicion was right. According to the seller: "These watches were released specifically from the USSR State Committee on Physical Culture and Sport in the 1980s. For rewards athletes along with medals". 100% authentic.
    1 point
  9. I couldn't resist and added this diving-watch, anti-magnetic with the classic 420 model SS-case, 2409-movement to my collection ........ How much more Soviet does it get !?? I haven't received it jet. The bezel is new and perhaps I leave it like that, perhaps a SS-green numeric bezel and a fresh seconds-hand? ........ we'll see what suites best. I'm after the more rare dials out of the CCCP-period and after many years, this is the first time I've seen this dial. Has anybody any idea what the symbol in the dial may mean? A certain Sports event related? It has the original anti-magnetic cover under the back-lid;
    1 point
  10. This is the watch I am wearing today. My son bought it for my birthday just the other day. Really like it. I changed out the watch band.
    1 point
  11. Those are the screws. they clamp down on the dial feet, which are actually tiny posts attached to the dial .This watch does not look rusty, so they ought to back out without any problem, just don't get mad at them .
    1 point
  12. It would've been nice to have a little more to go by. So based on the previous reply my watchmaker 125 and 135 are probably too big although they claim to be 28 mm. I'm giving you the link so you can look I'm just going to Through Movado watches with Sub seconds. So some are bigger than 28 mm so I'm not putting them in the list that I course Some are smaller which brings up the problem of the second and won't be in the right place. Then I don't know if you can take the images on the website if you know the diameter figure out all the rest Of the dimensions from that as to how well that's going to work or not. So for the limited list I have it looks like watchmaker got it right because the 75 is about the right size and there is a image of the dial side. It's the last link I have. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_150MN http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_135 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_125 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_473 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Movado_75
    1 point
  13. The style of your dial, and with the sub seconds, probably makes it from around the 1940s / 1950s. First let's assume the ligne size. The often used Movado 125 movement from watches of this era can be excluded because, being a 12.5''' movement (at 28mm+), this would be too large for your case which has an ID of only 28mm. Similarly a 10.5''' ligne movement at 23.7mm (covering a movement such as the Movado 261, again, often used) can realistically be excluded as if your dial feet are 22.5mm apart this would put them perilously close to the edge of the dial to fit such a movement (which I'm assuming they're not)! So I think we're in circa 11.5''' territory for a Movado movement with 17 jewels and sub seconds ... also extremely likely to be manual wind (era of watch and the flat case back). In that case there are few (Movado) movements it could be and almost certainly we're therefore looking at the 75. If you locate an image of the dial side of this type of movement, e.g. from ranfft, it looks like the dial feet positioning holes are in the right place from the description of your dial too. Result?
    1 point
  14. Managed to watch the first hour last night JD, very good stuff my friend. It's certainly given me some pointers on how to take my lathe work forward. I've read before that you can tell when you are turning well as you get swarf rather than chips from the material, so you are certainly turning well! Can't say the same for your singing though...
    1 point
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