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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/01/18 in all areas

  1. So my new balance assembly arrived from Australia this morning. I was a bit dubious about putting in the terminal curve as I've not done many before. But I think I got it pretty good after a good hour of trial and error. And the watch is finally running at the correct speed! So I guess the spring was wrong all along. So satisfying to get it finally working properly! Hooray!
    3 points
  2. Hi david. They are easy to work on., Though the set time and date set mechs are less than perfect good autowinders.Some brands I think Tissot for one still uses as2066 calib( Asian made) which are of slightly inferior quality to Genunine swiss made. I had one with date change problem which bugged me for a while until just by guess changing the jumper did the trick, later I was told the jumper on the watch had likely to have been Asian made replacement. First time I see as2066 in Rado, the grade Expectedly is high on it. Drop me a msg when you start working on it, I work with you til fixed. Regards joe
    2 points
  3. I can think of a few regular contributors on here that could potentially tick the boxes but of course I have no idea where anybody lives. This advert is currently in a horological magazine; I know a little background so if anyone wants to DM me I’ll fill in any gaps that I’m able to. Mods: I think this is in the spirit of the forum but if not please nuke it as you see fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. A kind and generous offer of help as you go along, if you need it, from @Nucejoe Perhaps a useful tip if you are working on a particular movement is to reference the ranfft site and be aware of movement IDs within the same family. As you'll see if you look at http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_2066 your AS 2066 comes from a large family! What this means is that if you can't find information on your specific movement ID you might be able to find it for a movement within the same family which will share all the same core components as yours. As a good example if you search for AS 1900 on YouTube you'll see that Mark has done a very comprehensive service, over three videos, of this movement type. Sure your movement has more capability (automatic and day/date) but at its core it will be the same as the AS 1900. My other top tip is that when taking off the date dial guard remove slowly and carefully (perhaps even in a small plastic bag) in case the date jumper spring is not securely in place and wants to make a bid for freedom! That is unless you want to spend an hour trying to find it again somewhere in your room. I speak from hard won experience...!
    1 point
  5. This subject was covered last year see below: Essentially I recommend a stereo microscope with plenty of light.
    1 point
  6. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. I was told by a watch maker that vintages Citizen's were not "intended to be serviced" Where did he get that idea? I can tell you ignore that.
    1 point
  7. Hi Bert, welcome. I have got some mechanical Citizen plus some NOS and used psrts. Some models wind unidirectionally. Good chrono pieces and some special lovely rare models. My advice for repair would be to make a habbit of taking pictures at each stage of strip down. The pix would come handy since, You have your own actual diagrams. Should there be a need for help, advice , you got pixs to post to give others a chance to see, sometimes the fault are found from just pix. Human mind got less work to do focusing on fixed pix as opposed to motion picture. Diagrams wont show the fault in the piece you are working on, just a guideline. If you don,t notice a part flying, pix will show wheather or not it was there in the first place. It's a good habbit to get addicted to. Regards joe
    1 point
  8. I managed to find time today to finish cleaning and rebuilding the gear train today. Everything seems to be working properly with regard to the two magnets between the second and centre wheels. When the second wheel is inserted into the centre wheel there is quite obvious resistance pushing the two wheels apart. Win! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. This is where I do my training. Great facilities, nice relaxed, sociable training atmosphere. Can't understand why there advertising for a "retired" watchmaker? Might appeal to a any watchmaker that would like to pass their knowledge and skills on!
    1 point
  10. Which Seiko forum is that [mention=272]canthus[/mention]? The ones I’m on most of the time are really friendly places. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. Ok the HS is the most likely culprit it is either too strong our not long enough. If I remember correctly the test for a HS strength is as follows. Put the balance bridge on a tack the HS should then suspend the balance by no more than 1/2 inch. If it is less than this it is too strong if it hangs lower than 1/2 inch it is too weak.
    1 point
  12. Solved.....I reduced the tension on the jumper spring. I just need and good nights sleep to cogitate on this!
    1 point
  13. This is a more detailed version of my previous picture-only post for this watch. This Bulova 21-jewel automatic was given to me by a colleague for repair. It was running extremely fast – gaining about 15 minutes per hour. The movement is a Citizen/Miyota 82S0 skeleton. Looking through the clear back it was obvious that the balance amplitude was extremely low. First step was to simply demagnetize the watch to see if that did the trick as it sometimes does. No dice. I then removed the balance and pallets and put a small amount of wind onto the mainspring. The train spun up but as power wore off the escape wheel stopped, then started again several times. It was a very sloppy action. Nothing obvious in terms of loose or cracked jewels or excessive side or end shake that I could see. I decided to disassemble the movement and give it a full servicing. Here is how I disassembled the movement. Where I can I will list the Miyota part number for reference. You can find the parts list here: http://miyotamovement.com/parts_search.php?open=82S0 Figure 1 shows the face of the watch after removing from the case. Note the exposed balance at the 7 o’clock position. Figure 1 – Face Figure 2 shows the clear case back prior to removing the movement. Figure 2 – Case back The first step in disassembly is to remove the Oscillating weight (119-A17. Note that the weight is secured to a bearing that is pressed into the main plate. Unlike many Swiss movements, the screw securing the weight rotates with the weight itself. I used a peg wood stick to prevent the weight from rotating while unscrewing the fastener. Figure 3 shows the weight prior to removal. Figure 4 shows the oscillating weight after removal. Figure 3 – Preparing to remove the oscillating weight Figure 4 – Oscillating weight Figure 5 shows the movement after removing the oscillating weight. The plastic movement holder (500-710) is also visible. This will be removed after dealing with the hands and dial. I also removed the winding stem (figure 6) by pressing in on the setting lever and gently pulling the stem. The location for pressing on the setting lever was clipped from the pic, but it’s a standard setup. Figure 5 – Plastic movement holder Figure 6 – Winding stem After removing the stem, the movement was removed from the case. The stem was then reinstalled to facilitate power let-down, etc. With the oscillating weight removed, it’s a simple matter to lay the movement down dial-up on a piece of pith wood and remove the hands (Figure 7). The dial retaining screws on the side of the movement are loosened (not removed) and the dial is gently coaxed away from the movement by inserting a thin screwdriver blade. Figure 8 shows the dial after removal. Figure 7 – Hands Figure 8 – The Dial The movement holder shown in figure 5 is now lifted off. It is shown in figure 9 next to the movement. Figure 9 – Movement holder ring Figure 10 shows the dial side of the movement. Figure 10 – Dial side The movement is then flipped dial down and loaded into a movement holder for disassembly. The balance (039-102) is removed along with the balance bridge (710-191) as shown in figure 11. Figure 11 – Preparing to remove balance The balance complete is shown after removal in figure 12. Figure 12 – The balance complete Important: Before removing the pallets I need to remove all the power from the mainspring. I do this in the standard way – by applying a bit of winding pressure on the crown while pulling the click (060-390 in figure 11) out of the way with a bit of peg wood and allowing the stem to unwind in a slow/controlled manner. Figure 13 – About to remove pallets With the power let down I can now remove the pallet bridge (708-066) and pallets. Figure 13 shows the bridge prior to removal. The pallets and bridge are shown in figure 14. Figure 14 – Pallets and pallet bridge I probably should have removed the motion work prior to starting in on the balance – not sure why I didn’t. Regardless, we need to flip the movement back so I can remove the motion work from the dial side. The hour wheel is held in place by the hour wheel spring (176-109). Remove the 2 retaining screws and then lift off the spring. The spring is shown prior to removal in figure 15. Figure 15 – Hour wheel spring prior to removal Once the hour wheel spring is out of the way I can remove the dial washer (078-140), the hour wheel (075-124) and finally the cannon pinion (using your favorite cannon pinion removal tool). These parts are shown after removal in figure 16. Figure 16 – Hour wheel spring, hour wheel, dial washer and cannon pinion Figure 17 shows the movement after removal of the motion work. It’s now time to flip the movement back over and start in on the gear train. Figure 17 – After removing the motion work I remove the three screws securing the barrel and train wheel bridge (701-F52) and carefully remove it. Figure 18 shows the underside of the bridge. Note that the seconds pinion friction spring (903-690) was left in place. I didn’t see the point in removing it. You can also see the oscillating weight bearing that is press fit into the bridge. I didn’t mess with this either! Figure 18 – Barrel and train wheel bridge and seconds pinion friction spring Figure 19 shows the detail after removing the barrel and train wheel bridge. First, I remove the reduction gear (088-120) and reversing wheel (141-190). These components are part of the automatic winding mechanism. They are shown in figures 20 and 21 after removal. I make note that the reversing wheel should be installed with the brass side up. Figure 19 – After removing barrel and train wheel bridge Figure 20 – Reduction gear Figure 21 – Reversing wheel Next, remove the third wheel (017-760), fourth wheel (023-940) and escape wheel (032-106). These are shown in figure 22. Figure 22 – From left to right – escape wheel, fourth wheel and third wheel Next, I remove the ratchet wheel (059-560) and the barrel complete (001-870), which sits directly underneath the ratchet wheel. Th.ese components are shown in figures 23 and 24. Figure 23 – Ratchet wheel Figure 24 – Barrel complete Looking back at figure 19, you can see a spring, very similar to a dial washer. This part is called the ratchet sliding wheel spring (078-150). Simply lift it off (figure 25). Figure 25 – Ratchet sliding wheel spring With the spring out of the way I can now see the ratchet sliding wheel (087-250). I remove this part along with the crown wheel (058-360). Figure 26 shows these parts. Ah – finally a picture that shows the setting lever release button I mentioned earlier! Pressing here allows the stem to be removed. I will leave the stem in place for now. Will get to it shortly. Figures 27 and 28 show the parts just removed. Figure 26 – Crown wheel and ratchet sliding wheel Figure 27 – Crown wheel Figure 28 – Ratchet sliding wheel Figure 29 shows the click (060-390) and click spring (903-700), the center wheel cock (711-074), center wheel (012-116) and center seconds pinion (025-670). Technically I believe the center wheel cock should be named the center wheel bridge since it’s secured by more than one screw, but I’ll leave that open for debate. Tension on the center seconds pinion is provided by the friction spring we saw back in figure 18. Figure 29 – Click and spring, center wheel and cock, center seconds pinion Figure 30 depicts the click and click spring after removal. Figure 30 – Click and click spring Figure 31 shows the center wheel in place after the center wheel cock has been removed. Figure 31 – After removal of the center wheel cock Figure 32 depicts these parts after removal. Figure 32 – Center wheel cock, center wheel and center seconds pinion The train side of the movement is now fully stripped. This is shown nicely in figure 33. Time to flip it over and finish off the dial side. Figure 33 – Finished with the train side Figure 34 shows the current state of the dial side of the movement. To get started I remove the minute train cover (079-890). Figure 35 shows this component after removal. Figure 34 – Dial side Figure 35 – Minute train cover I can now remove the keyless work. The components are shown in figure 36. The minute wheel (072-520) and setting wheel (076-430) are removed first. These components are shown in figure 37 along with the minute train cover. Figure 36 – Keyless work components Figure 37 – Minute and setting wheel Referring back to figure 36, the next components to remove are the yoke (071-510) and setting lever spring (077-690). The stem can now be removed and then the clutch (064-450) is free to remove. The setting lever (067-860) was not removed as it’s press button is staked (spread). No sense disturbing this. Figure 38 shows the yoke and setting lever spring after removal. The clutch is shown in figure 39. Figure 38 – Yoke (left) and setting lever spring Figure 39 - Clutch Finally, the main plate is fully stripped. The dial side is shown in figure 40. Figure 40 – Main plate – dial side We can now deal with the barrel assembly (figure 41). Figure 41 – Mainspring barrel complete Using the steel anvil for support, gently press down on the gear teeth to pop the barrel cover off (figure 42). Figure 42 – Barrel cover removed Carefully remove the barrel arbor (figure 43). Figure 43 – Barrel arbor Unwind the mainspring from the barrel (figure 44). Figure 44 – Barrel with spring removed This completes the disassembly of the movement. My next step will be to clean it in the ultrasonic. Will post the reassembly as a new thread.
    1 point
  14. Pleased to report that after a quick disassembly and servicing she sprang to life. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. Thank you for sharing -I like the dial very much! This week I also received my first "blink" vintage from the Seventies which fits very well to your Citizen :-) - therefore I will add it here. It's a Tissot PR-518. Almost in perfect conditions. Unfortunately the crown is not the original crown. It was replaced by a Tissot crown but the replacement crown does not allow to quick change the day by pressing. What is somehow funny - the day changes twice within 24 hours. Therefore every day is double. You can see it here: Tissot 2571 I haven't checked yet if there is really Tissot inside - you never know what you get from auctions but it runs very accurate.
    1 point
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