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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/12/18 in all areas

  1. I have answered below, but if you haven’t read it I would recommend the Esembl-o-graf manual which gives an excellent explanation of how to assemble and adjust this chrono. There are some variations, as the manual is based on the twin pusher variant, but if you have a single pusher there are a few different parts and a few parts missing which the manual expects. I have a note of those somewhere if you remain confused. In summary, spring K is used to adjust the end float of the chronograph pinion, by adjusting the screw nearest the pinion. It should almost touch the pinion, but not quite. This spring stops the pinion from riding up when the clutch is disengaged. Spring L is the lifting spring that moves the chrono runner away from the teeth on the pinion when the chrono is stopped. This spring should run on the plain part of the chrono staff next to the rubber washer Spring J is the tension spring that makes sure the chrono pinion doesn’t judder - like a tension spring on a centre seconds hand. This should touch the pinion ever so lightly. No oil is required on any of these springs.
    2 points
  2. This just in..a Tissot Seastar from the 70s. Just love the 70s bracelet! Ebay listing and pictures from the listing. First look it pretty grotty..The bezel ring looks tarnished. Not cheap at USD54 but these watches with an original bracelet are getting harder to find. One good sign is that it ticks (or so he says!).. that usually means the balance is OK. Crown seems original and the bracelet looks long enough to fit me! The caseback has engraving.. Lets take a closer look.. note the spring bars, these are orginal to the watch, the lug on the right looks to have been forced at some point. A closer look at the bezel ring, Tissot were a good brand and they usually used good quality metals, its probably stainless and hopefully its just wrist cheese which will clean up. The fact that the crud extends beyond the bezel is probably a good sign! (compare the crus at 7-8 o'çlock and at 12 and 6). Some other shots. No movement shots provided though.. will post more later! Anilv
    1 point
  3. Now I have a dedicated watch workshop with a place for everything - and everything in its place. I use the adjustable tray table on the desk to bring my work up to eye level.
    1 point
  4. Beautiful arrangement. It has the look of a serious watchmaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. That’s really helpful thank you, I have managed to find a new old stock bridle on eBay for £10 free postage so I have ordered that. It doesn’t look to me like the corrosion has spread any further, so hopefully all will be ok. I’m not sure that my standard soldering iron will have a small enough tip, so that might be a job for a watchmaker or jewller. Thanks again for all your help. Ollie
    1 point
  6. In a very old clock it may just be iron, but steel pins are the norm and quite flexible and soft too (they aren't hardened). You can get assortments from the usual suppliers that cover most needs. Brass is encountered as well, again, just regular old brass.
    1 point
  7. well... it was't an empty box....
    1 point
  8. I have a fondness for Movado, especially Kingmatics. I had previously bought on off ebay but that had a bad main-plate https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/2439-fellow-wrt-what-are-you-repairing-currently/?tab=comments#comment-24655 . I ended up buying a donor movement from a guy in Spain and the watch was back in service. Whilst browsing ebay I cam across this example. Advertised as not running with missing automatic weight. I got it for USD 40. Usually I would have steered away from it as parts for these movements are difficult to come by but I figured I had a good chance to get it running as I had a mostly complete movement with a good balance and more importantly an automatic weight! Pic from the ebay listing as below. Sellers pic of the dial..dial has patina but it can be re-sued as its pretty even, a bit of degradation around the edges. Date-disc looks home-made though! Movement is pretty grotty..These movements have a nice silverish plating which is part of the allure.. hopefully this will clean up. Broken crystal... simple enough to fix. Well the watch arrived and first impression is good. The balance staff is good but it wont tick.. the train is stuck. When I try to set the time I hit a dead spot, looks like a teeth is missing somewhere. Then I removed the balance but the pallet fork doesn't swing. On close inspection it seems to be broken. Hmmm.. so far I'm still ok as these parts are available on my donor movement. Well I ended up using the following from the donor movement. The cannon-pinion (missing a tooth), pallet fork (broken pivot), clickspring (wasn't original), automatic weight (missing), dial (better condition) and date-disc (better condition). The dial was signed 'Gentleman' instead of 'Kingmatic' and has a slight defect in the 'gentleman' but it looks nicer. The crown on this watch is original but worn through. I'm hoping that the autowind can cope! The movement plates were cleaned but this is the best I could achieve. The silver plating is quite thin and aggressive polishing can wear through. The bent lug will stay as it wont be so noticeable with a leather strap. Personally, I think this is one of the best looking automatic weights around! The automatic module makes a nice 'zzzz' sound when it spins.. part of the charm of its watch. Mechanically its pretty straight forward with no surprises. The only thing a bit different from other automatics is the mainspring does not slip. Instead there is a clutch built into the ratchet wheel and the crown wheel winds through a spring-loaded secondary wheel. Anilv
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. I believe you need a replacement incablok spring (at least this is normal procedure as a replacement for the ETA 2824 et al, I'm not familiar with the very finicky-to-work-on -- according to others -- ETA 2892-a2). If you were on this side of world, I would say ofrei stocks them...but his prices for shipping outside USA are too high for a US$2 part. It is a pain sometimes to make those springs to catch on the end they are supposed to and finally close correctly (lyre type) the others (novodiac/kif) will get in with no problem...except when they want to jump and join the space junk orbiting the Earth.
    1 point
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