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Ron it is what you are are confident with.Changing the jewels is relatively easy and reversible if it does not work. However if it was me I would adjust the staff using a jacot tool or the easiest option is to purchase then correct staff and keep or sell on the wrong staff. What fun.

I purchased a Timegrapher 1000 from Ebay, Tangtangme was the seller. When it arrived I didn't have the time to check it as I was going abroad. When I returned some weeks later I decided to check a watch I had rebuilt using my new Timegrapher. I plugged in the microphone then plugged in the power supply and switched on and nothing! I contacted the seller and they did respond with "Tell us when you bought the item". I did and I have heard nothing since. I have tried to contact them many times and have received no response. I decided to have a go and see if I could determine why it was not working. What I found was the power supply DC output was reversed so the middle pin was negative and the outer was positive. I reversed them and tried a power up. Hey presto she lit up and came on. The microphone was dead though. I opened up the timegrapher and discovered the reverse voltage had blown the 5volt dc to dc converter chip. I got one and replaced it and now I have a fully working timegrapher. Why am I sharing this? Just in case you get one from the same place I did. If you did and you need help to fix it just let me know. I am looking for a Platax tool if anyone is selling one please let me know.

When I retired, I had an old National like this and this L & R automatic, which was the bee’s knees.

Greetings from Manitoba Canada! Watch repair is a fairly new hobby to me, just shy of 2 years now. I have jumped in with both feet and have tried to absorb as much knowledge as possible up to this point and I look forward to the wealth of knowledge that I will learn from everyone here! I started with pocket watches and now am into automatics as well. I look forward to talking with you all!

I guess if you put these in order of risk from least to most then it's 1 - Find the correct staff. 2 - Replace the jewels. 3 - Modify the staff But then again, as a learner, I like to challenge myself to take the more risky option in order to gain experience. But of course that can be an expensive choice.

Follow these steps... Does it have a second hand... Yes = 3 H = 3 Hands, No = 2H = 2 Hands Where is the date... At 3 O'clock = 3D, at 6 O'clock = 6D Remove the old hour wheel and measure the height with a vernier gauge, if it is between 1.02 and 1.10 then it is normal Height. Otherwise you will need a high or low version. 75% of the time you will have the most popular version which it 955.412, 3H, 3D (Normal height, not HT0 or HT3) So that is 955.412, 3 Hands with the Date at 3. Suppliers all round the world will stock this version. Simples :-)

Thx guys... The 955.412 is pretty easy to get a hold of. So this must be the one to order. Again thx.

Good tools, books and videos are all helpful but hands on practical work is where the learning really happens. Bits fly off into space never to be found again, you will break things, you will assemble in the wrong order, you will make lots of mistakes but with practice the mistakes become less frequent and the speed of dis-assembly and re-assembly quickens. For watches you need a timographer or the equivalent.

Is it possible that the center shaft can be knocked out with a mallet or nylon hammer. If so it would be easier to make a new complete shaft. Far easier then drill and tap.

There are many clockmakers who do repivoting and other such work primarily by post. Don't know where you are, but the post sort of makes everything close.

I have one and used it for the BHI Quartz servicing exam. A great little device that does almost everything you need at the fraction of the price of a Witschi