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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/18 in all areas

  1. Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.
    2 points
  2. Hi Mark it is 7.9 mm which I suppose is as good as 8 mm. So I will get a universal drawer bar and 8 mm collets and I should be in business then. Thankyou
    1 point
  3. You will find the keyless very simple. Google keywords eta 1182 ranfft. To see the movement pic, tech specifi, family and bunch of other info. Ranfft is a useful database to see pic of a movement before strip down.There you see the family among which eta 1080 is shown, and pic of keyless on your movement which is the same as eta 1080 among others in the family. There may be no fault at the keyless of your watch. Or what endeavor pointed out. Especially no date plate in your way makes it easy ,fun and good case to familiarize with keyless.So I say ,go for the keyless, as long as you don,t brake staff pivots and use of a movement holder eliminates that risk. I assure you it is not above above your pay grade and I will be with you till perfect results are achieved. Easy easy. Regards joe.
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  4. @cduke; I'm sure somebody would have jump in this thread, given enough time ...... Oh, you see, Nucejoe just did as well To continue the answer given in the introduction section there is another thing you could check. Here the same picture again Some cover plates do have a kind of spring, holding down the clutch lever. If the clutch lever is not hold down enough, it is more prone to jump out of the clutch groove.
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  5. If you still find it loose and you need it to stay put.....on a cheap watch....just a tiny bit of super glue applied to a well cleaned oil free case..three or four tiny spots..so you wouldn't notice it.and the crystal will stay in place .
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  6. I have always heard that it should be the same size as the opening, But in my adventures I have found that the same size is sometimes a bit small.Sometimes spot on.If you go the next oversize its usually a safe bet.
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  7. It never ceases to amaze me how small this ladies vintage watches were. They must have had remarkable eyesight.
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  8. Agree with @oldhippy It would be great to see the movement.
    1 point
  9. It's all depending on your experience. If you are new to watches then pick a simpler/cheaper watch that will not result in expensive mistakes.
    1 point
  10. It's a tool to balance a balance or a reamer. This tool is really only for the pro's IE no going back if you remove too much material from a balance rim the balance is destroyed.
    1 point
  11. Two screws securing the winder is a MUST. Following winder removal, release the barell power. If you feel you may inadvertantly push on the balance bridge, best would be to rmove the bridge right after power release. Surely you know the staff pivots should not slide out of jewel hole. (Should be tested.) Please do feel free discussing any details. Regards joe
    1 point
  12. I would say by the style its from 1920's could be as late as 1930's. If it is gold it should have a hallmark inside the case and it can be dated by that.
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  13. One screw is already removed the other one is near the cock and is of blue- ish color. Remving this screw relaeases the winder. The larger screw in the midle of these two is on ratchet wheel and not connected to winder. Just ignore it at this point. This is a good movement, deserves the barrel bridge of the same color as the rest. Please feel free to msg me for any question. I would walk with you till you show us the picture of it servced on your wrist. regards
    1 point
  14. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. Members on this forum use this supplier a lot. https://www.cousinsuk.com/ I always advice people that want to start up in horology to spend what you can afford. Buy cheap and they won’t last. Good tools will last you a lifetime providing you look after them. Here are few of what I had and I still have them today even though I retired from watch and clock making years ago. Dumont tweezers Bergeon screwdrivers Eyeglass you will need various strengths Case knife I would also recommend starting on a pocket watch, there a lot bigger but are very similar to a bog standard wristwatch. Just practice taking it apart and putting it back, it doesn’t matter about getting it going. Get to know the names of the parts. This will give you good practice in managing to use your eyeglass, tweezers and screwdrivers. Don’t touch fusee pocket watches, as these are very different to what I call normal pocket watches.
    1 point
  15. Just like all eta 28 autowinders. The two screws to remove the whole winders are usually of color different than the rest used in the movement. One is nearly located close to the two bidirectinal gears.the other on the balance cock side and near it. The bidirectional mechànism are also selfexplanatory, you can,t go wrong. Provide a btter to top view, so the screws can be marked on it. Regards joe
    1 point
  16. I haven’t found a lot but have a couple of things. It is a ‘70’s era 36000 bpm hi-beat movement in the 2800 family of movements. It seems similar to the 2826. Here is one link of information and a couple of screenshots. Steve http://www.tztoolshop.com/page30.html Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  17. You won’t regret it mate, just been using mine on a job that I’d wish I’d never taken on ( we all know that feeling I’m sure ) anyway, I quick update for you, I said on my last post that you can’t turn the LED light off, well I was wrong!! You can and you can adjust the brightness too, very handy, it’s on a control wheel on the side of the screen where you slot the SD card. One thing I do do is place either a white bit of paper on the base, either that or a nice bit of green card that I use as a bench mat ( hobbycraft £2.50 for 20 A4 sheets ) this helps to emphasis what ever you are looking at making for a sharper image.
    1 point
  18. that is a very nice lathe, congrats. I just looked at several watch makers lathe motors, they are all around 1/10 - 1/8 hp (say 75-100 watts) and speeds range from 6000 - 10,000. Looking at the size of the pulleys they are likely a 3:1 reduction to the spindle. There are Chinese made sewing machine motor for $30 but I agree 100 real or hopeful watts is not enough for that lathe. A key thing with electronic speed control ( by a VFD or DC PWM) is that it might be constant torque, but that means HP drops as the speed drops. If the motor is 1/4 HP at 3000 rpm, and you slow it down to 300 rpm electronically, you end up with 1/40 of a HP! Constant torque is great with say conveyors; with a machine tool you ideally want constant power - speed goes down, torque goes up. This is why mechanical speed reduction is always superior in everyway….but cost lol. The ideal is a 3P w/ VFD or DC motor and use the OEM belt speed reduction. I've a couple of Schaublin 70 and that’s what I did, best of both worlds - variable speed and full hp available If you get the oringal stepped pulley on the motor all the better. Nevertheless, if you want get electronic speed reduction, the idea is you put a much larger motor on it so it'll still have umph at low speeds. VFD 3P is an excellent way to go. A really cost competitive alternative is the 3/4hp Consew motor which I think is excellent (they are all over ebay/amazon). It’s fairly cheap, just over $100 US, and is a DC servo drive that max's at 4500 rpm. Given the pulley dia it seemed ideal to spin a small lathe at 4000 or 5000 rpm down to a few hundred. As a servo, the controller gives it more amps if the servo feedback shows its slowing down - it keeps the same rpm with a varying load. Some might think 3/4hp is too much buts not given you're using it for speed control, i.e low rpms it will deliver a fraction of 3/4 hp but still enough to do work on a little lathe. I've an extra unimat 3 that I'm readying for departure and it didn't have a motor. I put a Consew 1000 on it and am really pleased, so much so I've bought a second for my U3. That lathe was underpowered imo but not any more, irrc it was 1/10 of a hp. The Consew motor is intended for an under bench mount for an industrial sewing machine and has a lever to connect to a treadle for speed on/off. That I think is really important for watchmakers lathes, I currently use a miltifix but I dislike not having foot control and am thinking of getting a Consew and mounting it under the bench to drive watch makers lathes. For larger lathes like yours or the U3, mostly used with a slide rest (instead of a graver), I think speed control knob preferred. Fortunately its an easy mod to convert the lever speed control into a knob control. The black knob shown I added; its speed control and the lever just sits there disconnected.
    1 point
  19. Hi, rather late, I know. But just today I read this interesting thread again and looked at the sound file "Ingersol-trenton.wav" from post #1. From the speaker I could already hear considerable echo. Curious, I ran the file in PCTM (after conversion to mono). But there was a nearly perfect graph line and waveform, I could not see any evidence of suspected echo: Ok - filter is on by default. Switched filter off: Now the original sound appears. What a difference, the tic noise can hardly be recognized. Apparent is a wave at about 600 Hz, which probably comes from heavy resonance in the pickup device. And some 50Hz hum is visible, too. Frank
    1 point
  20. This old GP with an imperfect dial us one of my favorites. I just had the case re-done. Sorry I can't show the movement, but it is GP's version of AS 1130- the cal. 03 (adjusted) 17 jewel. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
    1 point
  21. Underrated for sure! Something told me to wear my Oris today, now it makes sense. My day - date........love it
    1 point
  22. Before putting the components on a print-board, I measured the frequency of the pulses with an oscilloscope. Depending on the position of the potentiometer, with the components in the above schematic, the 555 triggered between 120 Hz and 300 Hz. To avoid any chances of flicker on a video, I changed C1 to 1nF and R2 to 680 Ω. The capacity of C1 gets lowered and by lowering the resistor R1, the capacitor will be even faster drained, causing the 555 to trigger faster. The frequency increased to a range between 1.33 kHz and 2 kHz, with a duty cycle between 3% and 99 %. The modification of the base-plate took a little longer; the design took shape while I went along, trying to keep everything as compact as possible and near to "original"-shape when the base-light is not required ....... This meant the potentiometer to be positioned to the left of the column, a power-plug to the right of the column and the circuitry below the slightly raised base-plate. If the base-light is not required, all what needs to be done is to unplug the power supply and the microscope abse-plate is back to "original" (well, .... nearly ) 12 Volt turned out to be too bright, so I ended up wit a 9V DC adapter, reducing the highest brightness and also lowering the lowest brightness to nearly nothing. Seemingly an excellent range ....... And here the circuitry tucked underneath the base-plate, all components build flat on the PCB to avoid any damage. The 4x corner studs (one adjustable to take out any "wobble") do also act as an anchor point for the 4x screws holding the white transparent plastic on top. The PCB is by means of 4x nylon spacers slightly raised above the bottom of the base-plate, to avoid shorting out on the aluminum. All seems to work fine. If I one day stumble over 4x countersink M3-screws, the current screws will be changed out so the top will then be flush. Another project done .......
    1 point
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