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Thought I would show off my new workshop. It has taken my the best part of 6 months to construct the building, then fit it all out, but finally have the space I wanted. It's a 6.5x3m building, split in half with office/watch workshop in one half and machine room in the other.

Agreed, The correct place for members to introduce themselves is here... https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/forum/23-introduce-yourself-here/ Closing this thread to prevent further confusion

Thanks John. This was easier than I thought when I got into it... (72 teeth on 4th wheel x 15 on escape wheel x 2 pallets x 60 rotations of second hand per hour) / 6 leaves on escape pinion = 21600 bph Changing the leaves or teeth on the escape wheel gives wierd answers, but substituting 66 teeth on the 4th wheel gives 19800bph. Lo and behold, looking at pictures on eBay, the correct listed part has 66 teeth. It even has 7 spokes instead of 6 to make it easier to tell apart. So far my £45 bargain watch has cost me £40 to get a balance sent from the US (which I was kind of expecting) and now it looks like another £25 for a 4th wheel, and I still have a worn bush on the auto winder and a dodgy quick date change to sort out before I strip it down for a proper clean. Let’s hope I don’t find much else, and it’s a good job I’m not doing this (or worse still paying someone else) to make a profit!

There is a formula for calculating out the frequency so you have the right gear ratio for your gear train. It's found that the link below. You can at least do the calculation and see what frequency your gear train thinks it's for. Then if you're good at math you can probably figure out which wheel is at fault. Then the escape wheel for the 506 and 508 are the same. The number of teeth on the escape wheel are probably the same but the number of leaves On the pinion is probably not. https://books.google.com/books?id=nZ27BvJwol4C&pg=PA81&lpg=PA81&dq=Calculation+of+the+number+of+vibrations+per+hour+Watch&source=bl&ots=5qP-k1sz-I&sig=bL28H-7jfrQKM6V4-l8B88Quo7I&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiH1oGglYXeAhW0KX0KHc05BWsQ6AEwCXoECAAQAQ#v=onepage&q=Calculation of the number of vibrations per hour Watch&f=false

Very true. And I do feel very uncomfortable forcing people to introduce themselves before interacting in other areas. But I am willing to listen - this is a membership site and we all have a stake in it's success. The reason why I have never forced introductions in the past is because people should have choice - new members have a choice to introduce themselves as well as existing members have a choice to simply ignore their questions. I must say - I am a little disappointed that this is an issue as the original intent of this forum was to be a help towards others with less knowledge as well as a community where all levels of horologists and enthusiasts could come together and simply be - and be relaxed. With that in mind - I have a solution, and it is a very very simple one. .... 1. I am not going to enforce an introduction policy, but I will make it more clear that members of this site will consider it polite if people do so first. ( I will work on making this prominent in the welcome email and I will make this clear with a information box at the top of the forum which only new members will be able to see). 2. If a new member posts a question without introducing themselves then, and here's the simple part, existing members who may be offended by this do not have to participate in that thread. We even have an ignore function on this forum if you feel that strongly about it. 3. Any member, both new or old who harasses new members, and it's reported to me, will be warned - persistent harassment's will result in a ban. A Word Of Encouragement... One-hitters who don't even reply sometimes are extremely annoying. Especially if you have crafted a three paragraph response with pictures and the OP does not even acknowledge your reply. It sucks. BUT - remember this. This is a public forum which gets indexed by search engines. Your replies are never a waste of time - it's all good content which will be read many hundreds or thousands of time - there is no telling how many people you will have eventually helped - with this in mind, it does not even matter who starts the conversation, your replies and the passing on of knowledge will stay on this site for people to find for years to come. It's not a waste of time.

Hi Guys finally got the sensor for the Horotec and got back on the job. The watch was dismantled again and cleaned, everything inspected under the digi scope and lo and behold the centre wheel has some teeth damaged caused when the spring broke, the wheel was replaced and the watch reassembled without lubrication firstly to check the amp. The amp is now upto 300+ Deg on watch o scope and the horotec, Beat error 0.03ms so lubed it up It is now running ok so left for a 24 hr test. RESULT. thanks for the input,

Nice job. Just needs a 50 inch TV on one wall and a couch Hope you will be warm enough in the winter.

All the modifications have now been made. I have made the welcome email more clear and I have made it clear on the Q&A forum that many members will consider it a politeness if people introduce themselves to the community first before diving in. The correct place to do this is here. Thank you for everybody participating in this thread and to @Endeavor for starting the discussion, some great ideas have been put forward and I hope we have set a workable system in place. To that end - I feel this discussion has served it's purpose and will now close it to further replies.

We seem to share very similar tastes! I have other Revue movement based watches and even had a small pocket watch movement I'd acquired that seemed too good to just sit in a drawer so I created my own wrist watch with it ... pic attached. MSR (Manufactures d'Horlogerie Suisses Reunies) was actually formed in 1961 when four watch companies decided to join forces. These were Revue Thommen, Vulcain, Phénix and Buser (with Vertex and Marvin joining the MSR fold later). Which of this consortium designed our T43/T56 I'm unsure but I think the quality is still there. I'm of the opinion they were perhaps trying to have some USP and designing in something a bit different because of this! Of course we'd both rather they hadn't but we want things to be a bit challenging...!

Here's a link that might help you: http://www.lathes.co.uk/collets/

Looks good Funny that we should both have very similar problems. Maybe that's why there aren't many of these movements around? I think mine's good enough. I'm not going to mess any more unless I have too. I'll see after a couple of days wearing it. I was looking for Revue movements after I was so impressed with the quality of the first one I got, a Cal 59 (pics below). All the parts just fitted together so well - lovely engineering. Maybe the MSR aren't quite as good ?

For what its worth. I think this thread is a little confusing. It is confusing new members.

Bonus points to clockboy and eezyrider ! Managed to open it. Apparently there are three lugs on the case back that are equally spaced and locate with corresponding notches on the case. Very easy to go past the opening point and as such re-lock it (Japanese sense of humour??). Here are some photos to clarify, also for future reference should anyone encounter one. Assuming this isn't the only one still in existence. Many thanks to all. Now just need to track down a replacement movement...….

Sorry if I drift away from your initial intention, but i like to grab this learning opportunity if you don't mind .......? In the mid nineties I bought my Dial-clock in Melbourne, Australia. To learn more about these clocks, I also bought a book about Dial Clocks. The above mentioned bracket-clock is estimated from around 1770. Consulting my Dial Clock book, comparing the pillars it comes up with a pillar design of the 1770 or the pillar from the period 1780-1840. The hands puts the clock around 1780....... according to my Dial-clock book. But this seems then also to be thru for bracket-clocks ........ !? Which make me wonder about how come ... ? I know that London was the most advanced in clock making and I guess they did set the design trend. Which hands or pillars to use. Some designs slowly spread to the countryside and therefor they were in longer use than they were in London, hence the dating is often given in a period of years; from then to then. So my question is; were there, for example with the pillars and hands specialized companies who "mass" produced these and a clock-maker could order these parts from those respective specialized companies? Or, in order to make the pillars & hands identical according to the latest fashion of that specific period, were there reference (latest design / fashion) books floating around which could be consulted by a clock-maker? Same counts for the chains ...... I do assume that they were ordered from a specific specialized company or did each clock-maker made the chains themselves? Clear to see on the Ben Shuckforth (Diss, Norfolk) clock I did begin this year, that nearly all part were hand-made, but for example the dial ornaments in the corners seemed to be "mass" produced? (perhaps Ben made the hands himself or ordered them ??) Any idea how that went in those days .......? Did they have a kind of "assembly-lines" for certain clock-parts ....? (was a kind of CousinsUK already around )

Sternkreuz ATC 316. Swap the original satin tension ring into new crystal. You need a good quality case knife to open these which is done at one of the lugs. Look for a lip.