Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/18 in all areas

  1. @OpenHeart and @Nucejoe; It seems to me that Openheart is new to watches. To submerge a movement in any fluid requires the hands and dial to be taken off. Next to that, after it has been submerged, the movement requires a total strip, a thorough clean and a full lubrication (cap-stones ect). All daunting task for a newbie who even hasn't got the tools yet. Therefor I don't think it is wise to submerge the watch in anything until Openhart has the skills, confidence and knowledge to do so. On this forum are plenty of people who are willing to guide Openhart step for step until he reaches that point. Lets first see what the watch does, what it requires and how far Openhart is willing to go......
    2 points
  2. Some digging on the internet; it could be a 15/16?-jewels ZIM 2602 movement. If so, these two links may be of any help ? Disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOUlt9U7pTo Assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSAIzr-i3Ek Add some Pobeda history: http://www.horology.ru/en/articles/pobeda.htm I'm sure there is much more to find ........
    1 point
  3. so photographs did attach sort of and I'm reattaching the movement photo so everyone can see it. Then I have a question notice I've zoomed in to the area under the balance wheel? This is a classic location where manufacturers of watch movements tell you which movement it is. So I can see a little writing but I can't see it 100% so if you could look and ell us what's written under their that might be helpful. then I've quoted this because I find it interesting? So if you're not worried about the watch outstanding because usually the first watch you work on has a very high likelihood of undesirable things occurring to it. But you also say it has a sentimental meaning so destroying a sentimental meaning is this going to be a good thing or bad thing for you? then as already mentioned this is a Russian the watch. Russian watches are interesting they use lots of clever techniques to get around manufacturing issues. This can make for very interesting watch repair experience especially for those people who don't work on Russian watches. then when I'm looking at the photos the crown looks a bit worn? This indicates that the watches been run for a while and more than likely has never been serviced.
    1 point
  4. @OpenHeart: Some watch repair specialist may not be fund of Russian watches. There are various reasons for. Don't despair if his/her advice is negative. That will certainly not be the end of your watch! It sounds like that, after all those years, it needs a proper service to start with. See how far you get by a specialist and report back if you decide to tackle the challenge yourself. Next to all well meant advice here on the forum, there are also plenty of watch repair video's on Youtube, for example Marks video's: https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood/videos
    1 point
  5. Closing hand collets, adjusting end-shakes, reaming/broaching upright holes, flattening dents in dials and hands, peening hands to form a curve, closing hole sizes, etc. There are some fancy accessories that you also get with the larger set detailed in the manual here: ihc185.infopop.cc/helphand/pdf/seitz.pdf
    1 point
  6. thank you for that lnk rogart63 I'm not 100% certain it will work but I can take ly chance -Hour hand : 1.50/10 (longer than the required 7.65) - Minute hand : 0.90/15 (longer than the required 12.70) I can cut them squared to the right shape and right overall length. If I'm lucky the lume opening will be long enough and close to the end. If I'm not lucky ... that set is only €6.73 shipped to EU so I wont lose too much money Nevertheless, before ordering, this WE I will try to rework a cheap DJ style handset I have in my drawer. The idea is to stick both hand on a wood block with non permanent glue and try to lengthen the lume openings with a dremel and a 0.6mm diamond disk
    1 point
  7. Good work! I'm curious how it sounds; do you have a recording in WAV or MP3 format that you can upload?
    1 point
  8. Dear all, this thread helped me a lot. Plenty of people shared their experiences. Let me say: "Thank you all, folks!" So is time to slightly return what I got and share my fresh experiences. I am newbie in watch repair but not in electronics. I can read plenty of stories here about sensors and amplifiers. I can read "simple" or "easy" or "cheap" or "work for me" solutions. No one worked for me as I expected . 1. sensor - piezo . All piezos have very low sensitivity. Does not matter of the size - (resonant frequency depends on size). Most of available circuits are based on a "knock" detector. For watch sensing have very low sensitivity. Also sensor frame construction takes account a lot - because of energy absorption. Holding piezo in fingers and trying to detect a sound - no way. So finally I decided to use a microphone. 2. sensor - electret microphone (common type). Described problem with a sensor frame construction is much lower and sensitivity is much higher. What is bad the mic can hear any other noise not just watches. So pay attention to any fans, wind, building works or a colleague typing very hard next you. 3. amplifiers - the sensor supports some signal. Input value extremely depends on where sensor touch your watches. Still is important signal-noise ratio (high sensor signal in very noisy background can be unusable!) not just absolute value of the signal. Just FYI the ratio between mic sensor attached to closed watches and opened (touched to a watch frame) should be 100times!!! Signal coming out from the sensor is very low and must pre-amplified about 90dB+ (partially in you external pre-amplifier and partially in you PC or phone). What is bad and not very suitable for the electronic enthusiasts - high gain amplifier can get easy oscillation. Oscillating amplifier is definitely not the amplifier. Without deep experiences what going on with your amplifier and an oscilloscope tool your are not able solve that problem. Another problem is any bread board solution hardly can be copied with success (still we are talking about high gain amplifier). Uffff, too many bad information. Yes I know, sorry. Just sharing mine. Is there any repeatable solution today? Yes, exists. I know it from today because finally this solution works for me and is usable without any special tools. You need: 1. microphone pre-amplifier from ebay based on max9814. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAX9814-Electret-Microphone-Amplifier-Board-Module-AGC-Auto-Gain-ASS/263928751428?hash=item3d73612544:g:~BoAAOSwD5ZZxMVm 2. quitar sensor https://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Acoustic-Clip-line-Pick-up-Pickup-Built-in-Vibration-Sensor-With-1m-Cable/282574713836?hash=item41cac3f3ec:g:EKIAAOSwf~ZZbI6k 3. some shielded cable, 3.5mm connector to your PC or mobile (I used PC because my Xiaomi phone heavy loaded pre-amplifier output. Actually don't know why), 5V power supply - prefer linear and external not USB or 4.5V battery, hot glue, solder station and basic electronic experiences or ask friend. Job description 1. carefully desolder the microphone from pre-amplifier 2. open sensor clip and remove piezo. Drill 9.6mm hole inside (hole depends on removed microphone). 3. cut off the connector from piezo sensor cable and solder on microphone (keep an eye of shielding) and other side connect to pins on pre-amplifier board 4. put microphone into the hole and fix position and cable with hot glue 5. solder on cable connector for your PC or mobile (mobile has 4pin and different connecting than PC - use google. 6. Connect 5V power supply and try out to setup your PC mic input as was previously described in this thread. How to test entire solution: Clip on microphone sensor to your opened watches (getting the strongest signal available). Eanable "listening" option in microphone tab. From your speakers you have to hear sound of your watch beating. Preset gains to level below you hear oscillating. If everything works fine just turn on a timing SW. Good luck and apologize my bad English PS: I was trying out to check accuracy colleague of mine OMEGA. Sure unopened. And I was not able to find proper gain level before oscillating. FYI. PS: Why my phone heavy load pre-amplifier output ... maybe next time. PS: You can see resistor 392 (3K9) in place of original (2K2). I lost 2k2 during testing.
    1 point
  9. I didn,t see any mention submerging the movement in fluid posted in the thread. Openhart says, it seems the crown is too tight, it appears not lubricated/ rusty.therefore; I personally did speak of generois lubrication of all " rusted" screws and allow days for oil to sink in. Then made mention of rust killer. Since WD40 mainly comes in sprayers , allow me to add " do not spray" over the movement. I am all ears if other method is recommended for facilitating removal of rusted screws, in case of no rusted screws no need to lubricate. Openhart adds " I could search for tools" furthermore " I am not worried about the watch, though it has sentimental values." I offered to show openhart how to make a screw driver. I conclude my msg to openhart with " the decision to go for it is yours" Am I on the right forum here? Is this watchrepairtalk? Regards
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...