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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/18 in all areas

  1. Thanks for all the support guys. I tried to follow as much advice as I had the competence to and cleaning it again has made a massive difference. I agitated it fairly carefully for a few minutes in IPA and helped it to dry carefully with my blower while it was flat. I did then dangle for a minute or two more to let final vapours evaporate (sorry@jdm I couldn’t resist!) Looked much better even by eye and here is the result from a half wind after a few minutes adjusting and regulating. Whilst I accept that’s not perfect I’ll take that; it’s a 20 year old cheap Seiko with a slightly distorted HS that didn’t work at all last week. Again, thanks for all the advice and support guys. Pip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Hi, I just wanted to place a tipp here. While I like the Felsa 4007N movement inside my Ulysse Nardin, I wanted to place a hughe tipp here. My watch was sometimes working for days and then it seems to stop but on manual winding it was always working solid. Thus I suspected the auto winding mechanism, especially the bearing. It was not the case. After having disassembled this watch so many times and replacing the mainspring etc I finally found the fault. Its an driving Wheel which is transfering the power from the Autowinding to the ratchet wheel. The correct part number for my caliber was 1482. The wheel consist out two wheels/gears which are just pushed into eachother. I guess this was done with a staking set initially. So the fault lies in the detail that this smaller gear was becoming loose enough that sometimes the auto winding was not able to turn the ratchet wheel anymore. So in practical, this wheel was acting like a loose clutch. I missed this for quiet a while during any visual inspection but at a certain moment in time i tried to turn it with my tweezers and noticed the issue. I was not able to fix it with my staking set as I am not experienced enough and just bent the Gear and the "closing" stump was not working as expected for me. Anyway.. I ordered the replacement and boom. Works. So if you work on an automatic felsa with these symtoms, check that part. Greetings Max
    2 points
  3. I think that's because it's recommended in old books like DeCarle which is then blindly followed. But since then the world has evolved and many more products have become easily available.
    1 point
  4. The two gaps marked with red should be around the same. Since it is bent somewhere at the yellow marking the whole spring is pushed towards the green direction. Did you demagnetized the movement and the balance and cock assembly separated?
    1 point
  5. Cousins poor shipping limitations derives probably from lack of understanding of the actual shipping regulations (which can vary from one service to another) so when in doubt they choose not to ship overseas. For example, if an UK seller can ship practically worldwide, then Cousins could as well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petroleum-Ether-80-C-100-C-500ml-Petroleum-Spirit-Shipped-Same-Day/142061406816 Note, the above is just an example, because the cost is prohibitive anyway. And if you read the description you'll find the other most common English names of what, in the end, is basically spark engine fuel. Also note, all these petrol derivatives do not dissolve shellac.
    1 point
  6. Pip, there is a checklist regarding hairsprings in regular watch service. I will not write it again you should do that first. But if it is surely clean and demagnetized then i would check the end curve is following the regulator pin path. It looks like the end curve or the HS attachment point, or the start of the end curve is distorted making the HS off center.
    1 point
  7. Here you go. This is before I started servicing it. Annoyingly I didn’t take a pic that showed the balance and HS before disassembly. Must remember to do that in future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. When it comes to fault finding you need to work in stages. So the obvious first, check the case for dents, make sure the dial isn’t bent or pinching anything. Try the movement in the case minuses the dial, then add dial and one hand at a time. Is the glass correct. That sort of thing. It is a process of elimination.
    1 point
  9. That's a nice find Anilv, that dial is perfect!
    1 point
  10. Picked this up recently for a snip from an excellent fleabayer in Japan: A fairly clean item from August 1968 with a good dial. Being a bit of a fan of Sportsmatics, I haven't come across this particular model before & wrongly thought at first that it had a cyclops crystal retro fitted. Further research showed this to be the original configuration, however the crystal was in fairly poor nick & appeared to have been polished a few times in the past. After some more detective work the part number was obtained & amazingly Cousins had one in stock: So far so good, although the rotor sounds a little rough (not uncommon on these). Lets see whats inside: Bit grubby with a scraping rotor, but the bearings seem OK, so the rotor gets bent upwards slightly - don't frown, it's what Seiko recommends! Out of the case, dial & hands off, strip down the dial side. Note the broken setting lever spring, I have a donor movement from a previous project and will replace this: Turn over & rotor off: Remove the winding gear: Strip down the above, a bit of wear on the magic lever but appears to work fine, clean lube & reassemble: Onto the main stripdown: All in bits & cleaned: Lower Diashock dismantled, cleaned then reassembled: Then it all goes back together: On to the dial side, setting lever spring replaced: Into the case, reattach winding gear, rotor & caseback on: The original crystal was used before the previous step to protect the hands, this is now removed the dial is given a final clean before putting the new crystal in place, which pushes on under finger pressure. The crystal is held firm by the bezel, which is a problem to fit as all of my dies are shallow & bevelled, unable to push the bezel down, so 2 pieces of 40mm waste water pipe are cut to suitable length, one piece is then fitted onto a stepped flat die, the other has a section removed and placed inside the first: Works a treat. Finally, with a new tan alligator strap fitted: It looks like the crown has been replaced with the wrong one in the dim & distant. Hopefully this will be rectified in due course.
    1 point
  11. alcohol ---- isopropyl is what the industry uses, avaible everywhere. why use lighter fluid ? your watch problem lays in other areas.
    0 points
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