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Here are a couple of options https://www.hswalsh.com/product/slotting-screw-head-file-cut-4-hf71 https://www.esslinger.com/screwhead-file-with-tang-makes-slot-in-top-of-screws-swiss-vallorbe/ Ideally you would put the screw in a lathe and use a double roller file rest to keep the file in the right place

To wrap this up.... There was indeed a jewel with my Seitz tool that seemed to be in the right direction ( 0,9 mm OD & 0,11 hole) so no excuse for not trying. And it turned out well with the balance wheel fitting nicely and spinning forever when tried without the hairspring. The hairspring turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. Appearing nice and flat on the wheel still on my table, it tilted heavily once the stud was pushed in. I spent several hours trying trying to grasp the dynamics of that thing and what influences what. Finally a tiny push a few mm’s from the stud levelled the spring to flat and parallell with the wheel. I suspect there must have been different materials used in hairsprings over the years? This one was really soft as butter and made very little resistance to maintain its shape when applying any kind of ”force”. After cleaning and oiling it now runs reasonably well with a decent amplitude. I attached a photo. With the clean and undamaged dial, I guess it’s an ok piece from the period or...? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very nice. Finding a watch with a dial in good shape is one of the toughest things when collecting vintage.

Hello and Welcome! There are some good clock people here, especially @oldhippy, who is very helpful, and a dedicated clock section. Have Fun!

I'm thinking this is incomplete. This is how the tool works. I copied this for you. Whe you read it you will understand why I think something is missing. A hairspring vibrating tool is used to fit a new hairspring into a watch. The new spring, which is much longer than needed, is fitted to the old balance, and "pinned " at a trial location toward the outer end, where the watchmaker estimates the correct length of the new spring to be. The height of the balance/new spring is adjusted so that the lower balance pivot is lightly touching the glass cover. There is a master balance carefully calibrated to vibrate at 18,000 beats/hour, mounted under the glass in the base of the tool. Both balances are rotated an equal number of degrees from the rest position, and released simultaneously. The watchmaker observes both balances to see if the trial spring balance oscillates slower or faster than the master balance. The trial pinning position is then adjusted to make the balance run faster or slower as needed and the process is repeated until the two balances rotate together at the same (18,000 beats/hour) rate. The new spring is then cut to length so that the correct "pinning" position will fall between the two index pins when the regulator is in the middle of its fast/slow range.

It’s p7040 (peseux). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem was the bent pallet fork lever. I straightened it out and the balance wheel now turns freely in both directions. To straighten the lever, I used two sets of tweezers to gently bend it back. It surprised me how soft the metal was and how little force it took. Thanks to everyone who commented and offered advice on the issue.

We tried to make a new screw for a setting lever spring where the old one had a bad thread . So made a new thread but couldn't find a low enough screwhead to clear the dial. i tried to make the head a little lower by putting it in a pin vice. That worked but the slot for the screwdriver was also removed. So was only wondering how we could make a new one. Just for fun to know and maybe have some use for some other day

Following up - we're all set with a new autowind module, thanks to an eBay vendor parting out a 6106C. Now for a new mainspring... I was out of town for several days and project Seiko lost momentum. I hope to get it wrapped up shortly, and wear my college watch again! ;-) thanks again, Gryf

No, you can't.