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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/18 in all areas

  1. I don’t see any hairspring stud screw in the photos, is it missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Hi, just introducing my newest addition. I am not usually interested in battery watches but this one caught my eye as it is rechargeable and came complete with the charger and spare bracelet links. It's keeping perfect time and appears to be virtually unworn. I don't know anything about this watch, age etc and if anyone can enlighten me I would be grateful. Bought at car boot sale for £12.50 so it didn't break the bank and seems very well made.
    1 point
  3. Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
    1 point
  4. ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough The 251.626 is often found in mid to high-end quartz chronographs on the market today. ETA 251.262.pdf It is a fairly complex quartz movement that has 5 motors, 2 with Red Coils, and 3 with Green Coils. To begin the service we start by removing the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates, and Date Indicator. A 1.4mm screwdriver is all the is needed for every screw on the movement. Here's a reference photo of the 3 screws for the Indicator Maintaining Small Plates. There are no more components to remove from the dial side of the movement. Once the movement is turned over, remove the 2 screws that hold the Magnetic Screen. Once the Magnetic Screen is removed all the coils are very exposed, so work around these coils with great care. Here's a reference photo of the 2 screws for the Magnetic Screen. Next unscrew the 6 screws holding the Additional Printed Circuit and gently lift it off the movement. Store the Additional Printed Circuit away separately and safe from the rest of the parts. Here's a reference photo of the 6 screws for the Additional Printed Circuit. Next we tackle the 2 trains with the red coils. Right Side - Minute Counter Left Side - Hour Counter The right and left trains contain different size wheels and should be kept separate for ease of assembly. We shall start with the right side. Remove the Minute Counter Bridge Next remove the Gear Train and the Rotor. Next remove the Coil and Stator. Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts. Here's a reference photo of the components and their corosponding screws. Note the 4 spokes on the Minute Counting Wheel. Remove the Hour Counter Bridge. Remove the Gear Train and the Rotor. Remove the Coil and Stator. Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts. Here's a reference photo of the components. Note the 3 spokes on the Hour Counting Wheel. Store these 2 trains in separate sections in your parts tray, and when cleaning store them in sparate parts containers. Next remove the Chronograph Bridge Now remove the Chronograph Wheel Unscrew the Green Coils and remove them. Store the Coils away separately and safe from the rest of the parts. Here's a reference photo of the components and their corresponding screws. Remove the Train Wheel Bridge. Remove the Wheels of the Train. This is quite a complex train of wheels. So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate. Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you. And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you. Remove the Rotors and Stators. Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it. Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws. This now exposes the Electronic Module. Remove the Stop Lever/Switch Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver. Then remove the Electronic Module. Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion. Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts. Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel. Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper. Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards. This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel. Here's a reference photo of the wheels. Lastly we need to remove the keyless work. Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work. The movement is now completely disassembled. I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement. I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)
    1 point
  5. But their eyes are open! The one is front is going to bite my nose :-)
    1 point
  6. Hi, just received my newest addition, namely a Casio as per photo. I have various watches from JLC dsa, Omega speedmaster, and probably a dozen Seiko's and various other watches and was looking for a daily "basher" after hunting around for a cheapo waterproof watch I decided on this Casio £48.00 plus £14.00 for a jubelee bracelet. I am delighted with it.. I beach fish so tested it by casting it out from Dover breakwater and left it in eighty feet of water for seven hours while I fished! The Casio is excellent for little money and looks pretty good too. If you are looking for a daily "basher" this is excellent. As I have said many times I am not into battery watches, but I am delighted with this watch.
    1 point
  7. Nice! I have the same model Casio. It's a great little cheap beater watch. I like your testing method for waterproof durability!
    1 point
  8. If only I had half of what you say oldhippy. But atleast I convinced the wife to let me have the old desk as a work station so I am no longer setting up on the dining table. But I do have a very good LED work light and it was worth every cent I spent on it.
    1 point
  9. Hello, I am new to this forum, hope to be joining the right thread. While watching Mark's course, I ordered my first tools and the clone movement. But it takes an astonishing 50 days for them to arrive... So to gain time, and procrastinate a bit from my real work (lute making) I started making a few basic tools. But finding the right profiles to copy is challenging. So many angles for the hand levers... I chose 30 degrees, and repurposed some useless screwdrivers I had around. Next the oil containers..which size? Is it critical to have small concave pools? Or they can be 8-10 mm wide? I used some camera lenses, with concave surfaces. Cannot imagine something closer to the agathe or cristal used on the professional ones. For the caps, I used more lenses. The container seems tight enough to hold the dust outside, while good enough to concentrate the puddle of oil on the center. One interesting effect I found is that with the cap (the second lenses) I can see magnified how contaminated my oil already is... Then the oil needles.. The shape is easy to copy, once you find close images of fine oilers, but what kind of surface transports oil best? Shiny or matte? ( when cleaning the dippers, it seems that a shiny surface is best for assuring nothing remains on the tool..)
    1 point
  10. Oh, technically that movement is an earlier 555, but they are very similar.
    1 point
  11. It was myself who sent you the spare 955! I’ve attached a photo of the keyless works with the corrector lever circled in red. The stud inside the slot does not snap “positively” into the three different positions. It always feels like it has a bit of play
    1 point
  12. if you really want a shocker, price them new afaik isoma's don't have an internal light source, at least the one have (for a Schaublin 70 milling spindle) doesn't. You reflect to the subject, or you could make something up from leds. The challenge as I see it is the graticule or cross hairs - I don't know of any digital ones that come with any sort of graticule. If you did find one, they would have to be very accurately centred with the OD of the body. Maybe there is a way to do it with software? With traditional optics, the cross hairs are under the eyepiece. You need be able to focus the eyepiece on the crosshairs and the objective on the subject. I've thought about taking cheap microscope optics (more than good enough as you'd use the lowest power objective) and making a centre scope (need some for other machines). There is some stuff on web about making the cross hairs from single strands of dental floss that look promising. That or get a trained spider. as for concentricity, I thought two slight eccentrics holding the objective, one inside the other, would make it fully adjustable so you could get it spot on after the the build So far for me its just talk, but I would like to have a go at making one (or two) one day
    1 point
  13. Yes it was some damaged parts. One or two wheels that were supposed to engage had their teeth a little worn out. I tried a similar approach where I thought that the little top plate that covers the keyless works (and also has a hole which holds one wheel into place) might be faulty so I tried bending it downwards (my wheels would simply slip from their intended slot) or just tightening the screw but it didn't work. Someone kindly donated a donor movement and I was able to simply replace 2 parts I believe and then it worked... Can you post a few pics for us ?
    1 point
  14. Balance cock = "upper". I hope they fit, as I mentioned that the Chinese copy is not a match of the Swiss. But at least they are cheap.
    1 point
  15. Cousins sell them but their web site if off line at this moment so I could not double check. I think the ref. number 6503 but until they go back online I can not check.
    1 point
  16. Those came in two different case sizes and different dial colors. But all the same in that yes the disc is just friction fit. I serviced the one that has the "Blue Jeans" dial a few month back. To remove the disc, I slipped a pair of tweezers under it and lifted it right off. Here is another one I have.
    1 point
  17. The first lot are hand levers for removing hands from movements. The second lot looks like chamfers and cutters.
    1 point
  18. Not familiar with this movement. J
    1 point
  19. I have never seen this movement before. It might just be magnetised causing the hairspring curls to stick to one another.
    1 point
  20. There are many manufactures of these items. My advice is not to be to frugal when purchasing. I personally like the Dumont tweezers I have used others but I find the Dumont seem to stay in shape for longer periods. I have tried many magnifiers but found Bergeon "screw rimmed" suit my needs. I like that you can unscrew and clean the lens. For screw drivers the A*F are really good value I have these + Horotec which I shape using their sharpener which shapes the blades into a T shape.
    1 point
  21. Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. Who made the watches always interesting question? The movements referred to as ebauche or perhaps today OEM can be one company and the selling company can be another. So the name of the dial or the case back or the back of the movement isn't necessarily who actually made the movement. On modern watches usually under the rim of the balance wheel you'll find the symbol and the number yours is nice and visible in the photograph very helpful. So the symbol is Felsa 1560 for the model number. Sometimes on older Swiss watches it's under the dial and other times the actual making company isn't visible at all. Then knowing who made the actual movement as far as value goes doesn't necessarily help at all. People are usually buying watches for the name on the dial and the case and whether the watches made out of gold or not.. Then I find this website helpful http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Felsa_1560
    1 point
  23. I am a sucker for coin silver interestingly engraved 18s pocket watches (wow that was a mouthful) This is a Waltham 18s Ellery 11jewel hunter made in 1885in a coin silver case. It was a bit sad when I bought it . I striped it down cleaned it, replaced the mainspring , replaced the crystal, installed a new balance jewel and cleaned what turned out to be a really great looking case that was black. As I said I love an interesting engraved case, and this Huge Bull is great. Tell me what you think & show your interesting cases
    1 point
  24. What a beauty !!! [emoji7] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
    1 point
  25. What a lovely puss and lovely blue eyes. Since my loss, this is becoming one of my favourite threads
    1 point
  26. Very nice. I'm partial to the Submariner. In keeping with the theme, watchmakers whose name ends with "ex", I would suggest adding a vintage Timex to the rotation.
    1 point
  27. Wow he is a beautiful cat, I always wanted a Maine Coon. This Is Fred a North Carolina Resting Cat. (most of the time)
    1 point
  28. Urrrg. Lighterz, how many times have I told you. Not on my watch repair bench! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  29. I think we should start a thread dedicated to Horologists and their cats [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  30. One can do that in a small ziplock bag to prevent parts from flying.
    1 point
  31. ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough Part 2 Assembly We begin the assembly with the keyless work. Fit together the Setting Lever and Setting Lever Jumper. Then install the Driving Wheel, Intermediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel Install the Yoke Then slide the saddle at the end of the Setting Lever Jumper Arm into the groove in the Intermediate Setting Wheel No.1. You will have to then lift the Intermediate Setting Wheel No.1 slightly to position the Setting Lever Assembly as shown below. Then locate the Setting Lever and Jumper onto their respective posts and slots. Once screwed down engage the position arm of the jumper onto it's post on the Setting Lever. Next install the Date Indicator Driving Wheel. Remember that you need to slide back the Date Jumper Once the Date Jumper is back in position check that the spring arm is once again down in it's correct position. Install the Contact Intermediate Wheel, the Hour Wheel and then the Minute Wheel. Replace the Electronic Module, then fit the Sliding Pinion and the Stem. Install the Cannon Pinion with Driver. Replace the Stop Lever/Switch. Then gently place the Upper Plate back on the movement, making sure the Yoke and Setting Lever are positioned correctly, and that you do not disturb any of the other components underneath. Refit the bank of Stators and Rotors which have the Green Coils. Now we come to the trickiest part of this service: installing the Main Gear Train. To assist in the order in which to install the wheels I will give the part numbers, and colour code the text, to match that of the diagram above. Start with the Third Wheel [210]. Then the Additional Intermediate Wheel [204] Then the Second Wheel [224] Then the Intermediate Wheel [203] Then the Driving Wheel for Second Counter [8059] Then the Driving Wheel for Chronograph Wheel 60s [8060] And lastly replace the Counting Wheel for Seconds or Minutes [8027] Once the train is in place, take some time to tweak the wheels so that are standing up as straight as possible. Remember that you have 10 pivots to align with their respective jewels, so taking some time to position the wheels and rotors now can save you a LOT of frustration fitting the Train Wheel Bridge. I would go so far as to take a little break, have a drink, relax your muscles and mind before proceeding to the next step. Fit the Train Wheel Bridge and align all the pivots to their jewels, and check the free running of all wheels before tightening down only the 2 rear screws. Install the Chronograph Wheel. Next fit the Chronograph Bridge and align the 2 pivot points to their jewels. This has to be done without the ability to manipulate the wheels directly, so make sure you inspect the jewels with high magnification to be sure the pivots are in their holes. And again, check the free running of the train. Replace the Connector Next we will install the small trains for the Counting Wheel, 1/10s and Hour Counters. These are the ones with the Red Coils driving them. Remember that the wheels are specific for each train and should have always been separated ... DO NOT MIX THEM UP. We shall begin with the right side. Install the right side Stator and Rotor for the 1/10s Counter. Next replace the Driving Wheel for Counting 1/10s [8059/1] Then replace the Counting Wheel, 1/10s [8027/1] Note this has 4 spokes to the wheel. Fit the Counting Wheel Bridge, making sure to align the pivots and test the free running before tightening. We repeat the process for the left side Hour/Minute Counting Train. Install the right side Stator and Rotor for the Hour/Minute Counter. Replace the Hour/Minute Counter Driving Wheel [8630/1] Then replace the Hour/Minute Counting Wheel [8600/1] Note this has 3 spokes to the wheel. Fit the Hour/Minute Wheel Bridge, making sure to align the pivots and test the free running before tightening. Fit the Red Coil to the right side Counting Wheel Assembly and screw down. Fit the Red Coil to the left side Counting Wheel Assembly and screw down. At this stage also screw down the 3 Green Coils. Refit the Additional Printed Circuit. Replace the Magnetic Screen. Secure the Battery Clamp. Then turn over the movement to the dial side. Fit the Date Indicator. And secure the Date Indicator with the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates. Then fit the dial and hands and test all the functions of the movement. ETA 251.262 operating instructions.pdf The service is complete. As always, I hope this walkthrough was informative and instructive, and gives you the confidence to complete this service on your ETA 251.626
    1 point
  32. Hello Ken, The Timex mechanical was a very clever answer to making a cheap, reliable, everyday watch for the masses. I don't think it was ever designed to be serviced like a Swiss watch as it was cheap enough to throw away. Probably the safest and easiest way to clean one is to remove the hands and dial and run the movement through a cleaning machine or leave soaking in lighter fluid and agitate now and again. When clean and dry re-oil where needed, adjust end shake on the balance and it should be up and running.
    1 point
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