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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/18 in all areas

  1. I rarely use the holes. On a hard surface I press down just above the gear teeth using my thumbnails. The top usually just pops off.
    1 point
  2. Do you have a specific watch in other words could we have the model number of the watch that's having a problem? Then a picture of the watch so we can see the layout of the regulator components. Otherwise generic questions get generic answers which may or may not apply to the specific problem watch. So a generic answer with me having to guess the type of watch you have. So for that I've attached images I'm assuming if the wording you have a watch that the stud can be moved and the regulator can be moved? So to make sure you're moving the correct ones I've attached images. Sometimes there is confusion over which one does what that leads to confusing results. So the problem of the regulating system like this is it has lots of range to it it's a very very sensitive to movement. Then the parts are stacked on top of each other they can move together even though they're not supposed to. This just requires lots of patients moving things around. Then without specifics again too many answers to many questions. Just because you have a nifty timegrapher Capable of measuring depending on which one a fraction of a second doesn't mean you can regulate the watch to keep zero timekeeping in all positions. So now that we have the background out of the way were still back to the specific watch. As a newbie you can stare at a watch all day and night and very likely you cannot or will not see the problem because you don't have the experience to know what it is you're looking for. As you've already stated everything looks perfect yet your perceiving you're having a problem. This is where we need a specific watch to address the problems one of the time. Then timing machine results it be nice if we could see those.
    1 point
  3. Well, a large proportion of “real” auction house sales are completed online with the buyer never seeing the item in question. I do this regularly myself. The typical buyers fees of 25% put me off, so I buy much more on eBay. A lot of auction houses don’t have a clue about what they are selling.
    1 point
  4. About 2 years ago I bought the complete set of 8mm WW collets from Sincere. The collet set cost me more than twice what I initially paid for the lathe. The lathe was $450.00 when I bought it many years ago. This price included the cross slide, lever collet holding tailstock and free shipping. Since I bought it, price increases have almost doubled the cost of the basic lathe package. When I brought this up on another forum years ago the usual nasty comments came out calling the machine "a piece of Chinese junk". These comments were made by people who never used the machine. With only a few exceptions (Boley F1, Star, Cowells) I also have every other model of watchmaker lathe in existence, so I had other machines to compare it to. In some respects, I took a chance when I bought it, but it turned out to be an extremely accurate, dependable lathe. Personally, I am very happy with the machine. I gradually added the other accessories over subsequent years and pretty much have everything Sincere offers for the lathe. Their quiet running induction motor was around $200.00 but I like it much better than the brush type universal motors that are normally used. The induction motor turns the same RPM whether running free or under a load during a cut. This helps keep a consistant chip load and reduces pivot breakage during the turning operation. david
    1 point
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