Leaderboard

Currently having limited space to work on watches, I decided that a portable desktop workbench would be necessary for me. I was inspired by this blog post for a similar sort of DIY setup, but was having trouble finding good sources for the individual components. Instead I used the following parts (mostly ordered from Amazon but available at Home Depot and Target as well): Carlisle CT121623 Café Standard Cafeteria / Fast Food Tray, 12" x 16", Gray 1x IRIS Desktop Letter Size Medium Stacking Drawer model DTD-L (available in clear or black) 2x IRIS Desktop Small Stacking Drawer model DTD-S (available in clear or black) Velcro 90087 Sticky-Back Hook & Loop Fastener Tape with Dispenser, 3/4" x 5ft Roll, White Everbilt #12 x 3/4in flat head phillips wood screws (SKU 284 773; from Home Depot) I paid about $32 for all of the above. Interestingly, everything except for the wood screws was made in USA. The plastic drawers do come with clips that allow them to be attached together, but the connection seemed pretty weak (hence the wood screws). To construct, I drilled through all of the holes on the bottom of the small drawers where the rubber feet would be pressed in (and ultimately ended up removing the Velcro you see in the picture below because I went with the screws instead): Next, I applied a bit of Velcro between the front edge of the two small containers. This may or may not have been necessary with the screws, but I did it anyway! To attach the two small containers to the larger drawer, I removed the top panel of the latter, marked where all of the feet align, and drilled some more holes so I wouldn't crack the plastic by driving the screws through it. You'll see where the two front inner holes interfered with molded plastic, so I didn't use screws there (also why I used the Velcro in the picture above). The screws may poke through the holes somewhat, but they shouldn't interfere with the drawers. Next I used a utility knife to shave the low feet off the bottom of the tray to make it smooth, then marked where it would be centered on the top of the small drawers. And in case you had been wondering, I chose to use the tray because it was cheap and had a decent lip around the edge to prevent things from rolling off. I then cut some lengths of Velcro in half and applied them to the topside of the small drawers. When I first ordered the Velcro, I hadn't planned on screwing it all together. The idea was to make it disassemble-able, but I changed my mind. Alternately, the Velcro could be replaced with double-sided 3M foam tape (though that wouldn't be thick enough to bridge the front gap between the two small drawers in the second picture. And now the final product, all stocked up! Esslinger's Watchmaker's Anti-Static Bench Mat Work Pad fit pretty darn well on the tray, with a little extra space around the edge to set things that might roll otherwise. The drawers have no locking mechanism, so make sure they don't slide open during transport. They do have some tabs to prevent them from falling all the way out, but that probably won't help much by that point. Final height is 7 13/16". The tray itself is textured, so a vacuum-clamp vise like the one in the blog post would likely not work. Hopefully folks find this useful. If you want, you could always stack more drawers. I find this size to be work pretty well and easy enough to store in the closet. Kevin

Looks like a FHF movement which Rolex borrowed from FHF . But think there are some versions of this? Maybe could be a FHF 30 . What size is the movement?

Why wouldn't they ship to Sweden ? Not like they'd be posting to North Korea or something... Anyway I can't help but I do know that glasses that aren't round can be hard to find especially something like this. You could try and have it made and sent to one of our members in the US. Surely someone would gladly help. Then they'll just ship it to you. Good luck!

Did you try what I suggested by inspecting the pallet fork shake while the balance is held 90 degrees away from rest? I casn explain in more detail if required. I'd also check the basic things like the the impulse jewel (is it loose, broken?) and generally check the safety dart on the pallets doesn't look bent.

Have you checked the pallet fork area ? With the mainspring charged if you try to move the pallet fork around does it re-start ? Or maybe rotating the balance a little bit...

This one Was a long shot but wanted to see if an off the shelf thing would work. It seems like it's just too insensitive - event flicking the sensor with a finger didn't do much. To be honest I've not given up on it yet, but I need to get my 'scope out the loft and see what's really coming out of it. Just twisting wires and shoving it into the mic socket on the laptop didn't work. Problem is we're moving house soon and all my kit is packed away.

The final lubrication debate is coming

Excellent - it's lard, 3-in-1 and WD40 for me from now on then

Hi MM, welcome to the forum, you will find very knowledgeable people on here who are happy to advise and help you. ( I am not one of them) every problem I have had concerning watch repair has been sorted simply by asking. This is the best and friendliest watch forum around. I look forward to seeing photos of your collection.

Welcome MM, enjoy the forum.

Welcome I'm from North Carolina too. There are some really good watch people we are all willing to help with problems. TimFitz

Welcome!

Welcome! You will find everyone here a great resource and very willing to help! I speak from experience! Gary Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome from Australia. I don't own any MM watches, but I must admit I have bid on a couple with the hopes on winning them and fixing to wear to work just for fun.

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you have quite the collection, would love to see some pictures of it!

Welcome to this friendly forum. How about some photos of your MM collection. Many on here would like to see them.

Welcome MM!

Looks great - 1963 and 1964 21 Jewels with #74 movement inside. The other two shown are named Viscount - aka self wind or automatic the one with the broken lug is 1958 or 1959. the other mid 70's is my guess.

Then you do realize you need more than one lubrication when working on watches don't you? Ideally when starting watch repair you start with the junk movement no expectations of it running just practice taking apart and putting together until you get your hand eye coordination down where the amount of pivots that accidentally falls off drops considerably. Then when you're going for a full-service you should start with something like a 6498, 6497 or ST36 which is the Chinese equivalent. Preferably purchased new in other words in known condition. You could run it across your timing machine or timing app verify its condition. Then service that. Then if it's not right afterwords you know It is something that you did. Then for a generalization don't assume cleaning fixes everything. There was a time where usually with pocket watches that cleaning would fix things. That's because the lubrication's used are organic typically when they went bad they just stop the watch. But that was a long time ago modern lubricants don't necessarily go bad that way they usually just quit lubricating. Then add in a little condensation rust forms it's a great grinding compound. Or think about a pocket watch that's 100 years old how many times do you think it's been serviced? How many owners have had it conceivably it's just worn out. It's one of the problems now with eBay thinking you're going get up nice watch and just clean it and make it go that might happen more likely repairs will be required and each and every watch is different.

good show!

great find, I have some myself and also some Kelton watches which look similar.