Leaderboard

I had a need to safely remove a C clip holding in two pusher buttons and thought I would share my method on the forum. I had a spring bar removal tool with a solid pin on one end and a scalloped forked end on the other. I placed a small bit of rodico on the bottom side of the clip and turned the C <- gap facing up. As you can see in the picture, I simply used the forked end that was the perfect gap to push off the c clips. I installed by getting the clip in place, C gap facing down, and used a #200 flat screwdriver blade and carefully pressed down to lock in place. I used the case wall to keep the c clip and push button slit in line. Don't attempt to push the c clip back on with the button pressed all the way in, use the wall of the case to help keep the clip straight in line. Hope this helps someone.

I would not touch Chinese watch tools with a barge pole

6319-5000 on Geckota vintage leather rally (smells [emoji7] )

Nice watch. I have one Blue-dialed watch, and it's a 1973 Bulova Jet star. Still haven't been able to get my hands on a bead-blasted matte finish watchcase like yours. J

Just as another quick tip... If you refer to your second picture you're clearly going to want to create a nice straight and clean edge as easily as possible. If you can get hold of some vinyl masking tape - usually called fine line masking tape at model shops - then you could pull a piece taut around the edge of the watch to create that. Crucially if you cut a small section of this tape and reverse it where the repair is - so the non-sticky side is where the repair is but the rest of the tape holds it in place - then this should peel away once the JB Weld has cured to leave a lovely straight edge. [You could of course probably do the same with any smooth tape but ths vinyl tape sprung to mind as a good choice].

I will. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

the vest; don't wear mine much any more, but have a gold "double breasted" rig, complete with a fob and a $5 gold coin. jeans are the thing now. the watch pocket must be big enough for the watch to be pulled out "without a strain" on the bail. vin

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I cut my teeth as an engineer in the aerospace industry and whilst I do not want to discuss the product I’ll just say it was cutting edge technology. I was trained, (and trained others) to design and produce my own job specific tools as they were not available off the shelf. With this in mind, a tool is judged as being appropriate for the job by whether or not it’s fit for purpose, not by the manufacturers badge or it’s origin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From what I have found out about Chinese watch tools on the internet there a waste of money. If you want to have the best, you have to pay. What is the point of cheap and having the worry that the tool will be useless for the job it is intended for, it could cause unrepairable damage. I have had 30 odd years experience working with good reliable tools.

I just took apart my first working watch and I am having trouble with the three gears. Everything else is easy to reassemble but the three gears leading to the mainspring. How do you guys put them back together? I am new to this so any help would be greatly appreciated.