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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/18 in all areas

  1. machining, model engineering, some electronics, writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles). Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!) Things I've made: https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a My garage shop: https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm My basement shop: https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1 added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those. Am now truly out of space.
    2 points
  2. I ended up getting a double-roller model made in the USA. I have to say, it is excellent. And so is the lantern tool post they make. Very good prices and build quality. http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Lathe-Attachments_c10.htm
    1 point
  3. Well among my other interests, motorcycles probably rank as high as horology and recently I had occasion to use some horological knowledge on my bike. Problem was the sight glass for the 2-stroke oil was well knackered It looked like it had been subjected to heat at some point. I managed to source a replacement but the closest I could find was a similar diameter but with different height. and when installed it sat a few mm lower (in the pic below the window should sit flush with the surround). Well I measured the diameter and found it was 28mm. I pulled out a 282 crystal and inserted it using the claw. a few taps and its now flush. Here it is in place with the outer cover in position. Its not as clear as a correct original would be and your eyes need to be exactly level with the window when checking but it will do for an occasional bike which doesn't see much use. another aspect of watchmaking was this caseback opener which I attempted to use to remove the locking ring.. unsuccessfully. This was eventually removed by the trusty hammer and screwdriver. Anyone else used watch skills/tools on other hobbies? Anilv
    1 point
  4. I don't think that a stronger spring can do damage besides speed up wear. A lot of the old pocket watches were repaired using springs that just "fit", either because of expediency or lack of knowledge. I agree with your assessment that the lower center jewel was probably damaged when the cannon pinion was pressed on, I've seen a few on watches with no other evidence of foul play so it's about the only explanation. It pains me sometimes to see the shoddy work that has been done to some of these otherwise fine pieces.
    1 point
  5. Probably what Anilv suggests, however, monitor the balance amplitude before adjusting...... the increased friction from the sweep seconds spring shouldn’t affect the amplitude significantly, but something like a reduction of 10 degrees may be typical. Monitor the amplitude throughout the 60s cycle, and check that it is consistent. If it is not, then inspect the moving contact points.
    1 point
  6. 011205 Available from Cousins. 014217 ETA Apr 24, but available on Ebay for a reasonable price as mentioned. Pretty good situation for such an old model.
    1 point
  7. Hi JBerry, I reckon the price is OK. Some spares are getting difficult to source so maybe buy it. Regards, Mike.
    1 point
  8. That seems a reasonable price to me. However if you can find the sizes required you could then try a material house and order.
    1 point
  9. Hi, I have constantly updated my information about Junghans pocket watches last year and lately I have started to search for serial numbers to maybe shed some light onto this subject. First results here: http://dirkfassbender.de/serial-numbers.html Any help is welcome. I look for low and high movement numbers and especially dedication engravings which could give hints for better dating Junghans pocket watches. Best regards Dirk
    1 point
  10. Mine says hello! Love how "tall" the hour markers are. Sent from my E6790TM using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. I only work on Tuning-Fork types, mainly Accutron.... The differences of the date mech of the 218 series relate to the day/date 2182 and the date only 2181/218D versions. they are fairly different too... Day-Date 2182 has the trip-spring with the hook that fits into pillar-plate, and abuts against a nipple, then onto date trip-arm, the date detent-spring is fitted After the date bridge is in place by threading it through the hole in the date-bridge, short end to middle of movement. 2181/218D has the date-trip spring thats threaded into/under the date bridge after the bridge is fitted.--Yup, Weird! If you strip the train on any 218x, during reassembly, leave the fourth wheel bridge off the bottom till the main bridge is fitted on top with all 4 wheels. This means there's only two wheels to locate the jewels, not three, (third locates anyway as its held by hack-lever.) Makes life so much easier and no need to poke around to locate the wheels, you dont want ever to touch the Index wheel with anything metal...
    1 point
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