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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    vinn3

    Uploading Images To The Forum

    ill give it a try. vinn3
  2. 1 point
    Scouseget

    Screwdriver Sharpening

    Hi. When I first started in this hobby, I decided not to go cheap on the tools so bought really good quality tweezers and screwdrivers, etc. This leads me to my question on screwdrivers which is that as the screwdriver set I bought (there are 9 of them in a rotating holder) and came with multiple replacement blades for each size, I assumed then that when a blade chipped, I just junked it and put in a replacement blade, however due to my inexperience I found I was replacing them really often, and in fact soon had to order more of the smaller sizes so: 1). Is this the right approach, i.e., just junk any damaged blades and replace them with new ones and if not, why not considering how cheap the blades are? 2). If I should be sharpening them, can I use a diamond stone as I already have a set of these that i use in my furniture making hobby? I also have water stones - would these be better? 3). I watched a YouTube video yesterday from the AWCI, which stated that not only should a screwdriver be just the right width for the screw slot, it should never bottom out in the slot but rather sit just above it so that the screwdriver actually jams up against the slot walls, which will prevent it slipping out and damaging the screw and/or screw hole. Is this correct because I assumed that the screwdrivers, especially given how expensive they were, would be inherently designed like this? Does this mean that even replacement blades should be adjusted on a stone to assure that they do not bottom out, and what if some screws have shallower slots than others for a given width, should I then customize the screwdrivers to ensure the correct fit? I should mention that, although I'm getting better at it, I still have screwdrivers slipping out of the screw slots and wreaking havoc, well at least on my ego, if not the movement itself. Should you have any other advise regarding the maintenance of screwdrivers, I'd love to hear it. Thanks from sunny Edmonton, which is now being subjected to a plague of mosquitoes thanks to recent heavy rains. And we thought we were going to escape that pleasure this year!
  3. 1 point
    welcome to the forum. the corroded battery location need to be cleaned. the use of chemicals may destroy the watch. ( if it is nor already gone). check with a quartz expert here or your local watch maker (jeweler). vin
  4. 1 point
    Chopin

    Acrylic crystal fitting help

    I have ordered a high dome without tension ring and see if it works. Fingers crossed!
  5. 1 point
    Recently I bought an AS1240 for parts for another I was repairing. Prior to receiving it, I took another look at the images and thought that the dial had been bent somehow while removing it from its case. It turns out it was a Curvex style dial. In and of itself, I thought that was pretty cool. It also had a rather strange regulator that I hadn't seen before. Then today I was looking at one of Jendrtizki's books and saw an image of this regulator, calling it an Incastar and explaining how it works. He said that movements using it were essentially "free-sprung". Hours later I do an internet search for Incastar, and what comes up at the very top? A thread by rogart63 on WRT. Very cool indeed, considering rogart63 helped me out with a few watch parts I needed last week. Thanks, rogart63! Another thing that is rather interesting about this movement is that it has 19 jewels. I spent a few minutes searching for other 19J AS1240's, but didn't turn up any. While rarity may not equate to value, it seems like it's a rather rare configuration for the model. I'd be interested to hear about others from others. It's rather sad that the case is no longer with the movement. It was probably gold and got melted, much like the one that rogart63 speculated about in his thread from a few years ago (below).
  6. 1 point
    Folkvisor

    2836-2 Casing

    I was having problems with a casing kit for the 2836-2. First, it wasn't made clear that placement of part 145, the ring that fits between the dial and movement, was absolutely necessary; it allows the day and date rings to turn freely. Second, there was a spacer ring to go between the case and the movement supplied with it that didn't fit properly. I used some pieces of small rubber tubing as a spacer instead. I'm thinking that this fix isn't exactly good watchmaking technique but the watch works now and it didn't before, so... Just thought I'd pass that along for anyone who is looking to case a 2836-2.
  7. 1 point
    Tiho

    GUB Glashutte Spezichrone

  8. 1 point
    Tiho

    GUB Glashutte Spezichrone

    Movement is GUB 11-27 produced from 1978 till 1985 year.
  9. 1 point
    rodabod

    Acrylic crystal fitting help

    Low dome are definitely lower than ATC and I would guess too shallow for your watch.
  10. 1 point
    rogart63

    Acrylic crystal fitting help

    ┬┤Not sure. Feels like the non tension ring low dome is lower and the high dome is a little higher then the ACT crystal. If i would guess i would say high dome. Think cousisnuk have a document of the crystals.
  11. 1 point
    jdm

    Frustrated Seiko 7s26A search.

    They all fit, including 7S, 4R, 6R and their SII equivalents. For details about 7S26 parts compatibility across versions check my table at: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml
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