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There is a tool/s specifically for this spring but I made one out of a piece of peg wood. A hole drilled into the centre of the peg wood and three groves filed (i used a screw slotting file) for the prongs. Then just sit it on top of the spring and twist. If you do not have these tools just use fine tweezers to twist but have a piece of peg wood over the spring to catch the flyer.

There will be an equivalent movement for sure you might have to take measurements or a internet search. Whether it is worth doing is up to you, personally I would not bother as it is not even a good copy of the genuine.

This doesn't get much wrist time but when I do it feels so right! On this one the inner bezel still moves. 6139-6002 from June '75. Anilv

You know how it is, its late at night, you have had a couple of whiskeys you are browsing ebay and you see something, you place an impulse bid and wake up in the morning to find you have won it..... ACtually quite pleased, its a bit rough but price was good, hopefully when it arrives it will be in a state worth restoring. I like military clocks, I've got a couple of Russian MIG clocks, a Russian Tank Clock, an American Seth Thomas Navy Deck clock and now a Waltham aircraft clock. Just need to get myself some British ones now.... It will be a couple of weeks before it arrives, but there are a couple of taster photos of it on ebay. No idea of its exact age yet other than it cant be later than the 1950s, but if I am lucky will be of WWII vintage https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VINTAGE-WALTHAM-8-DAY-A-11-MILITARY-AIRCRAFT-AVIATION-CLOCK-/382333164905?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=oZxjZV%2BqZEhnkGjEDMhqfs0Js7M%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

This is from a brand new 4R36 watch that stopped randomly and had an horrible pattern. Lubricating balance pivots and pallets improved the pattern a lot, but it would still stop easily. When testing the pallets on the escape wheel it had a slight tendency to "spring" to the exit positions, so I replaced it with another from the spares box. Much better, crossing fingers it seems to be running reliably, and the pattern and amplitude are almost perfect. I can kind of see that a stone is so slightly slant ?!?

I got the screw off but I have another problem totally new to me. I had a strange chemical reaction in my ultrasound tub. A lot of brownish yellow material appeared from nowhere and has really made a mess of many of the parts. I've never had this happen before. I'm not sure if has something to do with a chemical reaction between the cleaner I use and some of the metal parts on the AS589 or what. Has this happened to anyone else? Very strange!

Thank you. As i did mention, its not the monetary issue here, but its more of a memory to my friend of his father. Thank you sir. I guess I'll keep it quartz as much as possible. Didn't quite understand in what way this was meant sir, but if it was regarding me selling this watch, you can see its in a very rough shape for anyone to buy it. And I definitely don't want to add to the menace of fake Rolex watches that exist here already. Ill take that into account next time sir. I was just being honest. Yes, the question was closed within few hours of me posting it there. More important for me than the "Fake Rolex", even though I initially mentioned it, is to get this watch running for my friend. Its a kind of a gift he recieved from his father just about four days before his sudden demise, so it holds a special place to him. Doing repairs as a hobby, I have decided not to take money for this work from him. Thank you all for your response. The exchange chart mentioned only an ETA 963.124 and not a 125. I was bit doubtful, so asked here.

Not yet as Ive been concentrating on watches but need to do a few more clocks this year

But as mentioned elsewhere, that's not much of a concern, as fancy shapes watches normally have a case back, so crystal is pushed out from there.

The type with the bridle on the end are a bit tougher. Yes and when they're older they can break. Depends on how they were treated. For those and any others use a spring winder. Last resort method. On real high end watches a winder is a must.

Well I could have done with one today, I went from this: To this: Ok, it’s a 40 year old ms but I’m not sure that it wasn’t at least partly me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the following three products from CousinsUK, and by following the instructions in this video it has been working extremely well for me. • Bergeon 2461 • Can hold screwdrivers with body up to Ø6.95mm • Rectangle Aluminium Oxide Combination, Norton • Oil 3 in 1 Small 100ml As I have A*F screwdrivers, which I'm happy with, I first tried this A*F Screwdriver Sharpener with Stone but it worked extremely poorly. Only the smallest screwdrivers fitted the hole in the "roller". Plus, the screwdriver is held in place by a screw in the roller which is tightened against the shaft of the screwdriver twisting it so that it doesn't end up parallel with the stone. Also, the stone is very soft and deteriorates easily, like if it was made of compressed fine sand. Stay away from it!

jdrichard: beautiful lathes! You have given me an idea on a motor mount based on one of your lathes.

Very nice watch you posted jdm . It is a classic beauty . I'll get one someday....... I started the Year with another classic that the Post Lady delivered on Sunday no less . It is a Tissot PR516 GL [Grand Luxe ] ...... Nice heft to it with the solid link integrated bracelet . My pictures don't do it justice .

To add to my story above; Marks video's Omega 865 contains also some valuable tips and is highly recommended. I also replaced the chronograph driving (or "wheel over 4th"-) wheel before installing the escape wheel and pallet fork. The balance capstones (Incablock system?) had hinge-type anti-shock springs. @rogart63 Thank you for pointing this out Roger. I wasn't aware of this phenomena and the seals looked indeed like that; completely dissolved! Not only that, the rubber / "tarmac" had eaten the tachometer print behind the crystal as well! Perhaps the GFW wasn't the biggest after all !? Next to the sheared off screw that is. If the seals weren't his fault, my sincere apologies to him.... Very strange that a company like Omega used seals like that? Something went wrong in the R&D? Now I have to get it off the dial...... and have to find out how? What medium to use without harming the dial? Has anybody any experiences with setting the glass. Even though it is claimed it can be done by hand, I also read "horror" stories if it is attempted without the proper guide ring: From what I've seen, a tachometer glass is in between €60 - €80 ex. postage and a bit too expensive to give it an unprepared "go". Is there anybody who has this guide ring or knows where to purchase it? (please PM me if deemed required) Anybody any idea's of how to "polish" the case and keep (enhance) the "star" pattern? Or else; Any recommendations or addresses of people who could assist me? Any help would be highly appreciated ! Best regards: Roland

So found another scrapper ,I put the mainspring and parts together assembled the watch chucked a bit of oil at it and it actually ran, so I'm feeling a bit better now. So I decided to clean and service the movement, scrape the verdigris off and do a proper job and see what it all looks like when it's running properly. OI had quite a bit of work to do when i took it to pieces, screws with out any thread, no minute hand, and it was really dirty , but unbleavable it keeps time ( purley luck ), the dial is`nt the origianl but for the moment i`m not too fussed, i`m sure i will find one eventually. The case has`nt turned out too badly either, i had a few goes & its turned out all right, ive found its best to keep these cases oiled, as they go brown if just left alone. Not too bad really considering it only took a week to do it with the limited time i had.