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A "No name" vintage watch from my collection

It looks to me that the top layer of gloss lacquer on the dial is delaminated from the dial if the seal around the crystal is incorrect and moisture has entered the watch, did you pressure test the watch after fitting the new crystal?. The bezel has been refitted incorrectly any way the hour markers do not line up with the bezel and the double size bezel maker should be at the 12 o'clock postion and not at 9 o'clock as shown and the gap between dial and rehuat looks too great. Looking at the watch as it is I would suggest there is no effective seal around the crystal at all.

No experience with this particular movement but you should be able to loosen a screw on the auto bridge near the part you highlighted, then pull that part out into a position that releases the rotor.

I am beaten on that one but if you are sure that the seal is OK then investigate the hand clearance. There should be a witness somewhere on the dial or hands for that amount of debris.

It may be some sort of parallax error, but it looks to me like the luminous dots are smaller on part of the dial. I don't know how long the second hand is, but could it be "off-plane", and chipping off tiny pieces of the luminous as it passes those dots? If the second hand is long enough to hit them, I'd hold it under a light for a while then go into darkness and see if the debris glows. Far-fetched?

Thanks, rogart63, I appreciate the offer. Unfortunately, I just bought a parts movement for around $20, delivered. Oh, and believe it or not, the clutch-wheel, and other wind/set part, cleaned up nicely, with the exception of the broken spring. I hope the set-spring is intact on the parts movement. The seller said that it transitioned smoothly. Thanks again. Cheers.

I rather liked something that my instructor said when I was in school don't please the timing machine. Timing machine points you in directions gives you clues but perhaps think of it more as reading a crystal ball it's not always an exact science. Then when you toss in the Oscilloscope part and start trying to make interpretations from that things get much more complicated. If you get obsessed about having perfect waveforms which are going to be absolutely impossible to have you going to be chasing your tail forever. Then you have a rather impressive amplitude which is a little excessive? Then realistically to do proper analysis of a watch it needs to be done in multiple positions. Problems don't always show up when the watch is in only one position. So what tends to work well is six position timing. So this is dial-up and dial down and Use of the crown is used as a reference which would be crown up down left and right.

Finally project complete! Just like to say a big thank you to all the guys that helped along the way. Namely, Jdm, ecodec who helped in a different thread when I ran into an over-banking issue and the help offered here. Originally the watch was working fine, bar an issue with the winder which I guessed would be nothing more than the setting lever, so I set out to sort that and also replace the crown with a signed one along with a signed buckle. Since it is a very small ladies watch and was working well I wasn’t planning on stripping it down completely but that’s not how it panned out! Having replaced the setting lever all was going well until I re-cased the movement and found that it no longer worked. Inspired by the help on hand I decided to bite the bullet and strip it down completely. For the benefit of others - I have to say it was a real challenge! Had I not been fortunate enough to find a set of micro – screwdrivers among my tools I would not have been able to complete this project. I needed to be so close to see what I was doing I could barely get my tools anywhere near it. Anyway, after fully stripping it down it turns out it had over-banked due to a chipped exit stone on the pallet. Having now replaced the pallet fork, setting lever and a full service it is now back to its former glory complete with signed crown and buckle and keeping good time. For only my second completed watch repair I am chuffed with the results but you can rest assured I will not be rushing to take on any more ladies watches in a hurry!! Thanks again for your help guys, I would have been stuffed without you.

I always used Dumont s/s tweezers, 3 for basic watch work and fine clockwork, 5 for fine watch work. For large clockwork old tweezers that would have, the out of shape or broken points filed down. Even older ones for soldering work.

No need for grooves to be on a removable bezel. it is also possible that the crystal has a step and won't come out with lifter. In that case as suggested above use a sharp blade like an X-acto knife all around, cautiously and slowly, until a bigger blade can be inserted. Then pry, do not twist..

I’ve used pens like these https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-joseph-gillott-mapping-pen-set.htm, but also heard of others using an old oiler. I tried using an oiler but found it less controllable. Takes a bit of practice putting drops on a piece of plastic or similar. You also need good magnification and good lighting. I’ve only used lume with a water based acrylic binder. It tends to dry very quickly and I suspect an oil based lume may be easier to use.

Ok, a lot of good thoughts. The end shake of the balance was ok. That's what baffled me. The cause of the problem is the very end of the cock pivot is broken off. I missed it during examination of the wheels and pivots. Too complacent! With a high power loupe you can see the pivot is broken. the end shake was good because the remaining part of the pivot would fit into the hole jewel far enough to limit the shake. It also was long enough to allow good amplitude and timing when the balance was running on the other pivot (dial down). When I inverted the movement, the pivot would bind because it is too short to reach the cap jewel. This problem is somewhat rare, but I thought I would pass it along as a lesson for others. We never stop learning in this business.

There is lots on this subject on this forum or the internet but basically "Swatch" who own ETA no longer supply parts to independents. There are pending court proceedings regarding this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk