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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/24/17 in all areas

  1. I might have chimed in before but I could not find the post if I did. So, in keeping with my normal watch practice, I'll do it again. I'm in Tijuana Mexico, almost retired and decided to learn about the 30 or so watches I have because they, like me, are getting old. Watched all of Kevin's videos which inspired me to go for it. I've spent more time on my knees her than I am sure the Pope has at the Vatican. I am self learning on a simple and inexpensive movement, the Elgin 554. So I bought up a bunch of them. They helped a lot. My weakness is in handling the balance and I have a lot of microminiature scouring pads to prove it. So I decided to focus on hairsprings and hairspring manipulation in order to be able to deal with hairspring issues when they arise. I figure I'll spend a year on that. In the meantime I will, of course, work on the Elgin movements in order to clean up things like getting the tweezers handling right, learning all about screwdrivers etc. I've replaced balance staffs and reinstalled balances and put the watches back together, but I must learn everything there is to know about hairsprings. Learning how to use the tools has been a major part of learning to work on the watches. The right tools for the right job, handling screws so you're not chasing them down the street, all that is vital. So I have a long road ahead and a lot of watches to service. Thanks to Kevin and thanks to all of you for being so kind and so giving of your experience. Micromechanics is a whole new universe. A great place to lose yourself in.
    3 points
  2. I don't think you necessarily need an ultrasonic tank, I've gotten great results (a lot lot better than just hand cleaning alone) with a simple 1 hour soak in horolene in a warm place (in a sealed kilner jar and cheap parts baskets) then obviously you need some kind of rinse solution and a thorough rinse and then to go over everything lightly, mostly with clean rodico but you still need to keep an eye out for stubborn dirt spots and triple check those jewels.
    3 points
  3. I have to say the oil side of watch repair makes me smile. Back in November put in an order for a 55 gallon drum of 1000 weight steam oil for my traction engine. I buy about one drum a year and it lasts well. Two weeks ago I ordered most of the oils I thought I would need for watch repair, the total quantity came to about 14ml of oil. I paid a third of the cost of my 55gallons on the watch oils. After the panic had subsided I realised that the 14ml of oil would probably last me most of the rest of my life. Seemed a cheap hobby after that! Merry Christmas to you all!
    3 points
  4. Hello, I’m chipping in not as a seasoned watchmaker but as one on my way towards getting there, accumulating experiences and slowly building up a decent shop. Like anything else, every step of the way can done differently and how much funds and effort you put into is is what you get in results. There are many US machines of various qualities from $30 to $5000 and more. The cleaning liquids are also important. I’ve heard more negatives han positives about lighting fluid leaving a coat behind. So, yes, an US cleaner will improve on your hand washing process but it will remain inferior to the standard automatic washing machines what incorporate US features to the process. I’m a believer in pre-cleaning with the movement assembled then reassembling, full wash, peg’ing and reassemble. Keep it going!!!! Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  5. Do not use lighter fluid. Get refined ether petrol (Benzine). There is a recent thread in this forum about it. Then rinse with IPA. Neither one of these leaves any residue. In my opinion an US machine is not really necessary, for cleaning mov.ts also because it should not be used with the flammable fluids above. I had a cheap Chinese one and it broke after a year, it can be useful in the household but I'm not in a hurry to replace it.
    1 point
  6. I did see an oily residue after using lighter fluid and that's why I would like to move onto something much more cleaner. Wanted one of those Elma cleaners but for a hobbyist paying that amount of cash is not an option :)) Patience is not a problem with me using a peg but I'm a massive OCD freak and knowing the movement is not squeaky clean just drives me mad. Saw some fluids from Horotec and Bergeon. Quite expensive but I guess they are worth the money. Thanks for your reply btw. Great support. Andrei
    1 point
  7. I'm not getting this kind of opener just for Vostoks, but to be able to open all kinds of watches, including more expensive pieces and avoid the risk of slipping. When I first get it, it sure would be nice to use it on Vostoks as well. I guess it is no big deal to modify some bits regardless of wich model I choose.
    1 point
  8. Welcome to this friendly forum. Dumont tweezers are the best. You are going to need good tweezers for hairspring work.
    1 point
  9. I thought I've give a quick update on this project as tomorrow is the big day and I haven't made a peep since November. In the meantime, I received a replacement 7002 movement for the Seiko 7002-700J which was originally received with an improper 7019 movement inside. I also found a replacement mainspring for the 7019 movement (in Spain) and have cleaned and serviced the it returning it back to good working order. The replacement 7002 movement is the properly marked JAPAN (as opposed to SINGAPORE) version so this will still be a proper 7002-700J watch, but sadly the dial proved to be damaged beyond repair. Both dial feet had fallen off and the paint was ruined by whomever scrapped off the lume. I did manage to clean the oil off though. I cleaned and serviced the movement and found only one bad part- the Pawl Lever for the autowinder which had lost one of its claws. A replacement was readily available from Jules Borel and the movement is again beating away. Interestingly this 7002 movement came equipped with the Day Jumper and Day Finger that you would expect to find on the 7019 movement. I'm not sure why that was the case since the 7002 has no Day Wheel but there you go. Unfortunately one piece the replacement 7002 movement was missing was the Holding Ring for the Dial. This plastic ring sits between the dial and movement and keeps the dial from pressing against the Date Wheel. The holding ring from the 7019 movement had broken into seven pieces and was beyond repair. Replacements are hard to come by but I did manage to secure one just the other day but alas, it will not arrive in time for Christmas. Regardless I powered on and reassembled the case along with a nifty oyster style bracelet. As I've stated before, the bezel ring is an aftermarket replacement but the rest of the case is original. Both cases were the old style with a spring and ball bearing serving as the bezel click. On the 700J case the ball bearing had popped out but I was able to reseat it and the bezel rotates just fine. The 7002-7000 watch came together with a brand new replacement dial and hand set. The dial and hands are aftermarket I believe but look quite good just the same. I have a replacement dial and hand set for the 7002-700J as well and also have a proper original dial that is in route. I haven't decided which will go on the watch as of yet. Although I'm a bit bummed one watch isn't ready yet I'm still pleased with the project. My brother will be getting the 7002-700J when it's all done and I'm sure he'll be fine waiting another few days for the finished product. He will be a bit anxious when he sees the one that is done though. Happy Holidays!
    1 point
  10. What happens is that on some cases nothing else can be initially inserted. Safety is an issue, and after making a little space for another tool the sharp blade should be put away. In fact I've posted these knives just because they look good and high quality, not because I recommend their use.
    1 point
  11. Hi Andrei, Welcome to this fine site. We have the same interests. I was an electronic engineer and now I am retired. I am an amateur watch repairer to keep busy, I repair mechanical, quartz etc. There are some very experienced watchmakers here and they are very knowledgeable and ready to assist with problems. All good wishes from Mike. Hampshire.
    1 point
  12. Welcome to the forum. I am a newbie in watch repair too.
    1 point
  13. Welcome Martin, Enjoy the forum & share your horological experiences.
    1 point
  14. I just use a normal case knife for most openings. However for old really tight ones I purchased this tool that works great but if purchased be careful as the case can fly when it finally releases.
    1 point
  15. Welcome to this friendly forum.
    1 point
  16. Welcome, i hope you settle in nicely.
    1 point
  17. That's interesting- I never would have guess that. My preference is to put the hands on with the movement already in the case although that's not always possible. I've not knocked out a jewel yet or bent any wheels or plates though.
    1 point
  18. Yes, AliX protects the buyer. The base is good, some pictures:
    1 point
  19. This is very bad here. I dread to think what it’s like on the inside of the other part. You need to replace it with a new one.
    1 point
  20. That is strange. Have you checked that everything moves if you turn the barrel by hand. Take of the balance and pallet fork. And see if the drivetrain moves like it should. Cannon pinion tightening is very tricky as it can be to tight.
    1 point
  21. it still looks like a canon pinion issue checkout "rogart63's post"
    1 point
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