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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    adiorio110

    My latest acquisition

    50 bucks plus shipping.. it's in mint condition. Also came with 12 extra reamers Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
  2. 8 points
    Wesley881

    Rockford Electric

    Just in from the 'Bay on a second chance offer! I had missed by a dollar before and fate has brought this little gem my way. This is an economy Standard Time Corp. movement and is cousins with the Hamilton 500 or 505(?). I think maybe it shares a balance assy. Loving the clear caseback as well and the offset crown is very comfy. Keeping good time so far but perhaps in need of a cleaning as the balance adjustment is pegged. Also sorting a huge part and tool lot I got in trade for some service work, will post some photos soon. C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  3. 7 points
    I had a need to safely remove a C clip holding in two pusher buttons and thought I would share my method on the forum. I had a spring bar removal tool with a solid pin on one end and a scalloped forked end on the other. I placed a small bit of rodico on the bottom side of the clip and turned the C <- gap facing up. As you can see in the picture, I simply used the forked end that was the perfect gap to push off the c clips. I installed by getting the clip in place, C gap facing down, and used a #200 flat screwdriver blade and carefully pressed down to lock in place. I used the case wall to keep the c clip and push button slit in line. Don't attempt to push the c clip back on with the button pressed all the way in, use the wall of the case to help keep the clip straight in line. Hope this helps someone.
  4. 7 points
    syfre

    hairspring vibrating tool

    Hello guys, An attempt to make a low cost hairspring vibrating tool : Prove of concept : The hairspring (here it's a 18s balance) is clamp in a crocodile clip which has been grinded to be as fine as possible, a laser beam is set so that the beam is cut by the balance arm. The photo diode (from an old pc mouse ) is en-capsuled in a little housing to avoid parasite light (from what i thing to be an old TO3 transistor spacer found in my spare screws box). The IC is just a simple op amp acting as a comparator, the led on the output is used to visualize the that the laser beam is on the detector. First measure on scope : Doing some simple math show that an error of 0.1 ms on the measured value (which is 400 ms for 18000 bph) correspond to an error of 21.5 seconds / day. At that time base setting my scope has a resolution of 4 ms ! I switched to an Arduino based measuring system : I used an existing Arduino module based on a cheap stm32 and add a led (indispensable to adjust the beam) and the power output for the laser. The comparator is no more required as the stm32 has schmitt trigger inputs. The soft is triggered by the touch screen and accumulate a couple of measures in a circular buffer to compute an average value. This permits to eliminate aberrant measures that you can have when the balance starts to swing. Detail of the crocodile clip : In conclusion this is little tool (cost me only the plexyglass sheet, around $1.5) could be useful to match a new hairspring on an existing balance. The measures are relatively simple to do with a good consistency and surprisingly the croco clip do the job and you can get the balance swing for tens of second on the plexy. You need a resolution of 0.05 ms to be at 10 s/d and probably calibrate your measuring device. The main difficulty was to adjust the position of the laser beam. Hope this can give you some ideas. Regards
  5. 7 points
    khunter

    Home made watch cleaner L&R clone

    Here's a few pictures of my home made watch cleaning machine. It uses a bathroom vent fan motor, ceiling fan speed control, and a digital timer. I've since added a 12v cooling fan above the motor as running an induction motor at lower speeds (voltage) increases the heat produced by the coil. I turned a 10mm shaft extension to mount the L&R cleaning basket, and the "lid" has a groove that has high temp RTV silicone in it to create the seal. The square post indexes the basket and lid to each jar, and I'm using old school (read: DANGEROUS!) solutions, but they are quite effective. I raise the head after each cycle and spin off the extra solution before going to the next one.
  6. 6 points
    jdrichard

    My pocket watches

    Here they are Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. 6 points
    Mark

    Polite question and answers only

    Moderators perform an essential role in any community, but all have checks and balances. I am the main admin and even I have to control myself in order to attempt to maintain a friendly forum. I am sorry you were prompted to create this thread - I think I know the reason. I am extremely busy at the moment creating new content for the course BUT I want it known that I still monitor very closely the security of the software. I cannot, however, have time to monitor each and every thread - that's why we have the "REPORT POST" feature (which people can use in order to notify moderators and myself of potential problems). It is discouraging and makes the community look bad when we see lack of patience and bickering so please do use this feature and hopefully we can keep this community growing. This is not the largest watch forum on the net - but I did start it with a vision for being among the friendliest
  8. 6 points
    Mark

    Specs Way Off After Reassembly

    Ok. This has gone far enough. We are all here to help each other. I fear this thread is not going in the direction the OP intended and as the issue is pretty much resolved I will close the thread. To the OP: if the issue is not resolved and you wish me to reopen the thread then Please PM me and I will do so. Anybody who does not wish to be involved in any threads can easily unsubscribe from notifications at the top of the page. I think we all need a beer and chill Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. 6 points
    azkid

    Wedding gift - back from repairs, yay!

    My wife bought me this Official Cosmonauts for me for our wedding 15 years ago. It was my Grail watch before I knew the term. The stem broke awhile ago. Eventually I decided to take it to Right Time in Denver. Fortis finally shipped the parts after a couple months and got it back yesterday. Oh how I've missed it! I am really digging it on this new black nato with matching satin stainless steel hardware (originally got this strap for my Lunar Pilot).
  10. 6 points
    clockboy

    Seiko vid (Excellent)

    I thought I would post this vid. It is a vid promoting Seiko but it is also excellent in showing how a mechanical watch works. Well worth watching.
  11. 5 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
  12. 5 points
    Deggsie

    Watch of Today

    Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 5 points
    Well when I said old tool, here's a internet copy of a 1899 watchmakers suppliers catalogue similar tools appear on page 102 of the catalogue they may have at the time forgot to add your name to there mailing list . https://archive.org/details/20thcenturycatal00purd It does make interesting reading as a catalogue thats over 100 years old there are some very familiar old tools listed.
  14. 5 points
    MMCollector

    New Watch Repairman (Lady)

    I have finally found time to post the pictures of the lot that I bought. There are more that I have bought one by one, however, these came all in one package (with batteries!). I have fixed most with just a battery change. Any other Mickey Mouse Watch fans out there? I have turned into a MM watch collector and I LOVE IT!
  15. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Pin Pallet Beat

    The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.
  16. 5 points
    OK. This is the sort of thing that I might get into. I'm happy to help if I can when you get stuck. With regards to the movement, here's the easy answer: Log in and join RolexForums.com and check the for sale section. Recently a member there had (several) NOS 3135 movements for (if memory serves) $2000.00 each. That's a good price and it will have that off your plate. Yes, it's two grand, but you can easily amass that in replacement parts, assuming you don't cause collateral damage during tear-down or re-assembly... And, the upside is that the swamped movement can be retained for you to learn and work on at your leisure. I noticed a question regarding refinishing the dial. I would avoid this. These Yacht-Masters have a platinum plated textured dial. I encourage you to make friends with your local dealer's watchmaker (if they even have one on staff) and arrange a service dial from Rolex. This is ONLY done on an exchange basis, and must go through an authorized retailer. You may be able to get one through the selling members on RolexForums too- I do see loose dials there often so it is possible. I don't know if the exchange will be less than a purchase through the forum, but you should avoid refinishing because it's not a simple job (and therefore will be expensive). DO NOT buy this dial on eBay unless it is sealed in a Rolex blister pack. Fakes abound... You will need a new set of hands too. And the bezel assembly (I think the insert is Platinum as well so sit down before requesting the quote) Case restoration- you need gaskets at the very least, crystal obviously (these are easy to get) and a crown tube tool. CasKer has the tools (decent quality) for not a ton of money. The tube needs to come out, have all threads inspected/cleaned, new O-rings installed and the tube re-installed with low strength locktite (purple). Maybe you should consider new tube and crown (I would). That's a 703 crown and tube. Those can be found on eBay for a few hundred bucks pretty easily. Again, make sure they are sealed in their blister unless you are VERY sure of the seller and the part you are buying. Maybe the case needs a buff. There is no easier way to destroy a Rolex case than to take it to the buffing wheel. THIS is an absolute art, and should be left alone. Get a Sunshine cloth for the polished sides and be happy with that. Seriously. If it's really ugly, send it to a pro. Maybe ABC watchworks out west- someone who specializes in vintage stuff. They will preserve the case shape where even the local Rolex repair center may not. I do my own, but I know my limitations and those were learned the hard way... But the case needs to be absolutely clean. Tear it completely down (you will probably need the bezel removal tool in addition to the case back tool shown above) and reduce it to all it's parts. Remove all traces of old o-ring that may be present. I like Acetone for this- it may need to soak a while. All oil, dirt, old o-ring etc. must be gone. Then, assuming it is polished to your satisfaction, the reassembly process can begin. Also mentioned above (I do this exact same thing) take a picture of EVERY disassembly step as you go. That goes for the case as well as the movement. Something you were not focused on during disassembly may become critical for reassembly. This is really easy now with phones.
  17. 5 points
    khunter

    How am I supposed to get this out

    A safer route would be a small pin vice, less chance of damaging the screw...
  18. 5 points
    Marc

    How to separate third wheel from bridge?

    What you have is an indirect centre seconds configuration where the third wheel has an extended staff that comes up through the bridge to the back of the movement. An intermediate centre seconds drive wheel is friction fit onto the extended staff which couples with the centre seconds pinion. you will probably find there is a friction spring sitting on top of the centre seconds pinion to control the inevitable stutter that these design suffer from. This was the how all centre seconds configurations were executed when centre seconds first became a thing. It's a perfectly good way to achieve centre seconds without bu$$ering about too much with the rest of the movement but it has a couple of drawbacks. The stuttering is one of them, the other is it makes the movement quite thick. Anyway, the circular plate that you refer to is not a separate part, it is a thickening of the hub of the intermediate wheel in order to provide enough meat for a competent friction fit on the staff. There is a Presto tool specifically designed for removing these, and I have also seen some very nice pullers that people have made, but a pair of very thin levers or blades usually does the trick if you are careful. And you do have to be careful. The extended staff does not take kindly to anything other than a perfectly vertical lift; cant the wheel off of erpendicular to the staff and the staff will snap. Reinstall using a staking tool to keep everything nice and true.
  19. 5 points
    noirrac1j

    Omega Constellation 504

    It doesn't get enough wrist time, but I wore my little (34mm) omega in to work today. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
  20. 5 points
    machining, model engineering, some electronics, writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles). Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!) Things I've made: https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a My garage shop: https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm My basement shop: https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1 added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those. Am now truly out of space.
  21. 5 points
    dwhite

    My pocket watches

    I envy you! I also buy them broken but make them more broken.
  22. 5 points
    I bought myself a car dent removal tool and tried it today on a few pocket watches i had with good dents. Worked great. Just tap frequently and use the right size end depending on the diameter of the dent. They work the tool in small circles around the dent or back an forth for long line dents. Here are my results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  23. 5 points
    Kevin

    Lubricants

    I have to say the oil side of watch repair makes me smile. Back in November put in an order for a 55 gallon drum of 1000 weight steam oil for my traction engine. I buy about one drum a year and it lasts well. Two weeks ago I ordered most of the oils I thought I would need for watch repair, the total quantity came to about 14ml of oil. I paid a third of the cost of my 55gallons on the watch oils. After the panic had subsided I realised that the 14ml of oil would probably last me most of the rest of my life. Seemed a cheap hobby after that! Merry Christmas to you all!
  24. 5 points
    Endeavor

    Omega 18SPB Pocket Watch

    Hello All; I received an Omega 18SPB gold-plated pocket watch, allegedly a non-runner. It was a heirloom item and had to be passed on to the younger generation. Luckily it wasn't a total "non-runner"; after a full wound it ran for 7 hrs. The small seconds-hand was missing and there were visible signs of dirt inside the case & movement. According to bidfun-db ( http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2ustu&1095006620), it is a "Gents Omega Hunter", from the 1924 era and the 18SPB movement has 15-jewels, a bi-metallic screw balance with a Breguet hairspring. Here are some pictures of the watch in the condition I received it; Front cover and dial; Notice the dirt on dial and on the inside of the bottom edge glass ... Rear covers and movement; The 18SPB movement seems pretty straight forwards and judging the case marks / movement-screws-heads; not very often "messed" with. The case numbers did match-up and the gold-plating wear on the case & the chain seem to match up as well. Also the tapered chain seems the original & authentic one; a great bonus ! Before removing the winding stem, remove the residual power in the main-spring; in this case there wasn't any residual power left (?). To pull the winding stem, the set lever screw has to be undone by 1-1/2 to 2 turns; After removing the winding stem, there are two case-screws which have to be taken out. It's a "front loader", the movement is placed inside the casing through the front. Flipped the case over and carefully remove the glass & bezel ...... both the glass and bezel are of very thin material ...... Carefully remove the movement. There is a thin ring around the movement, between the bottom of the movement and the watch case; not shown in the picture. The hands are a straight pull up. The dial is attached to the movement by three (3x) dial-screws, each with a roughly 120 degrees spacing in between; Stripping the keyless works, minute and hour wheel revealed some excessive lubrication; Note; the winding pinion didn't come out at this stage. Pulled the canon-pinion but left both keyless-springs (left and right) in place. Keep an close eye on the minute pinion, which protrude above the main-plate !! Flipped the movement over and removed the balance. Thereafter removed the pallet-bridge, the pallet and the wheel bridge. Note that the crown wheel screw is left-handed, but hasn't got the triple markings some left-hand screws have; Removed ratchet wheel and the crown wheel, also note there is an additional washer underneath the crown wheel; Removed the wheel train, barrel-bridge, spring-barrel, winding pinion and the set lever screw. All items collected in a tray; Opened up the main-spring barrel; Took the old spring out and I have to say that the old spring wasn't eager to get its freedom back ! Before I started on the watch, I asked under the "Watch repairs Help & Advice" the forum for some help. A very educative discussion followed; Luckily I received some excellent help from JohnR725 and StuartBaker104. Both noticed that a wrong main-spring was fitted. The spring fitted had a "normal-bridle", whereas the barrel needed a "DBH" special bridle. This meant that the old spring was not a good reference for a new spring With the help of both forum members above, and the "Spring calculator" on David Boettchers website; http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/mainsprings.php, we were able to guesstimate which spring was needed. The internal barrel diameter was 14.4mm. Feeding this number in the "Reverse engineering calculator" yielded the follow answer: Spring thickness = 0.177, length = 450, turns = 6.4, area = 55%. From measuring the barrel, the maximum allowable height of the spring was 1.9mm. Scrolling through CousinsUK list for 1.9mm high DBH springs, the closed match was spring GR5617DBH which dimensions were 1.9x0.18x440x14.5 (Height x thickness x length x washer ID). That was the spring which was ordered, pictured below; Even though the spring fitted from the washer inside the barrel, I couldn't engage the hook, so the spring had to be unwound. Note the difference in the amount of "un-cloiling" between the old tired spring and the eager spring. No wonder there was no residual power in the old spring left after 7 hrs running ! Fitted the new spring and it was a perfect fit While this all with the spring was going on, StuartBaker104 made me aware of an eBay auction for a lot of small fusee seconds-hands. The auction ended late in the evening and I throw in a bid, never thought to win it. Lo and behold, I did win !! Whether they fitted had to be seen, but judging the sellers pictures, they had to be close. Thanks again for the tip Stuart ! While the hands were on their way, I thoroughly cleaned and de-magnatized the movement parts. To be continued in part II since I nearly lost all my work above; about 2 hrs of work !! This program doesn't allow intermediate saving, which isn't so good ! @Mark: can that be changed ?
  25. 5 points
    This is Elgin 18 from the late 19th century. I really like the watch, but it needs a lot - hands, balance staff, hairspring and crystal. Anyway, I just could not get the bezel to unscrew, impossible to get a grip. I found a video by tshackantiques on how to remove bezels (or backs) using a hot glue gun. I couldn't believe how well it worked! Run a bead of hot glue carefully around the bezel. The heat expands the bezel which helps. Stick the lid from an appropriately sized jar to the bezel. While the glue is still in a plastic state, it has a lot of holding power and the grip the lid gives makes it a piece of cake to unscrew the bezel. When cool, it does not stick to the metal and picks off very easily.
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