Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    adiorio110

    My latest acquisition

    50 bucks plus shipping.. it's in mint condition. Also came with 12 extra reamers Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
  2. 8 points
    Wesley881

    Rockford Electric

    Just in from the 'Bay on a second chance offer! I had missed by a dollar before and fate has brought this little gem my way. This is an economy Standard Time Corp. movement and is cousins with the Hamilton 500 or 505(?). I think maybe it shares a balance assy. Loving the clear caseback as well and the offset crown is very comfy. Keeping good time so far but perhaps in need of a cleaning as the balance adjustment is pegged. Also sorting a huge part and tool lot I got in trade for some service work, will post some photos soon. C Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  3. 7 points
    I had a need to safely remove a C clip holding in two pusher buttons and thought I would share my method on the forum. I had a spring bar removal tool with a solid pin on one end and a scalloped forked end on the other. I placed a small bit of rodico on the bottom side of the clip and turned the C <- gap facing up. As you can see in the picture, I simply used the forked end that was the perfect gap to push off the c clips. I installed by getting the clip in place, C gap facing down, and used a #200 flat screwdriver blade and carefully pressed down to lock in place. I used the case wall to keep the c clip and push button slit in line. Don't attempt to push the c clip back on with the button pressed all the way in, use the wall of the case to help keep the clip straight in line. Hope this helps someone.
  4. 7 points
    syfre

    hairspring vibrating tool

    Hello guys, An attempt to make a low cost hairspring vibrating tool : Prove of concept : The hairspring (here it's a 18s balance) is clamp in a crocodile clip which has been grinded to be as fine as possible, a laser beam is set so that the beam is cut by the balance arm. The photo diode (from an old pc mouse ) is en-capsuled in a little housing to avoid parasite light (from what i thing to be an old TO3 transistor spacer found in my spare screws box). The IC is just a simple op amp acting as a comparator, the led on the output is used to visualize the that the laser beam is on the detector. First measure on scope : Doing some simple math show that an error of 0.1 ms on the measured value (which is 400 ms for 18000 bph) correspond to an error of 21.5 seconds / day. At that time base setting my scope has a resolution of 4 ms ! I switched to an Arduino based measuring system : I used an existing Arduino module based on a cheap stm32 and add a led (indispensable to adjust the beam) and the power output for the laser. The comparator is no more required as the stm32 has schmitt trigger inputs. The soft is triggered by the touch screen and accumulate a couple of measures in a circular buffer to compute an average value. This permits to eliminate aberrant measures that you can have when the balance starts to swing. Detail of the crocodile clip : In conclusion this is little tool (cost me only the plexyglass sheet, around $1.5) could be useful to match a new hairspring on an existing balance. The measures are relatively simple to do with a good consistency and surprisingly the croco clip do the job and you can get the balance swing for tens of second on the plexy. You need a resolution of 0.05 ms to be at 10 s/d and probably calibrate your measuring device. The main difficulty was to adjust the position of the laser beam. Hope this can give you some ideas. Regards
  5. 7 points
    khunter

    Home made watch cleaner L&R clone

    Here's a few pictures of my home made watch cleaning machine. It uses a bathroom vent fan motor, ceiling fan speed control, and a digital timer. I've since added a 12v cooling fan above the motor as running an induction motor at lower speeds (voltage) increases the heat produced by the coil. I turned a 10mm shaft extension to mount the L&R cleaning basket, and the "lid" has a groove that has high temp RTV silicone in it to create the seal. The square post indexes the basket and lid to each jar, and I'm using old school (read: DANGEROUS!) solutions, but they are quite effective. I raise the head after each cycle and spin off the extra solution before going to the next one.
  6. 6 points
    Mark

    Specs Way Off After Reassembly

    Ok. This has gone far enough. We are all here to help each other. I fear this thread is not going in the direction the OP intended and as the issue is pretty much resolved I will close the thread. To the OP: if the issue is not resolved and you wish me to reopen the thread then Please PM me and I will do so. Anybody who does not wish to be involved in any threads can easily unsubscribe from notifications at the top of the page. I think we all need a beer and chill Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  7. 6 points
    azkid

    Wedding gift - back from repairs, yay!

    My wife bought me this Official Cosmonauts for me for our wedding 15 years ago. It was my Grail watch before I knew the term. The stem broke awhile ago. Eventually I decided to take it to Right Time in Denver. Fortis finally shipped the parts after a couple months and got it back yesterday. Oh how I've missed it! I am really digging it on this new black nato with matching satin stainless steel hardware (originally got this strap for my Lunar Pilot).
  8. 6 points
    clockboy

    Seiko vid (Excellent)

    I thought I would post this vid. It is a vid promoting Seiko but it is also excellent in showing how a mechanical watch works. Well worth watching.
  9. 5 points
    jdrichard

    My pocket watches

    Here they are Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. 5 points
    TimFitz

    Lew & Me

    Here is my cat "Lew" helping me adjust a pocket watch and adding a hair to places one should never be.
  11. 5 points
    Well when I said old tool, here's a internet copy of a 1899 watchmakers suppliers catalogue similar tools appear on page 102 of the catalogue they may have at the time forgot to add your name to there mailing list . https://archive.org/details/20thcenturycatal00purd It does make interesting reading as a catalogue thats over 100 years old there are some very familiar old tools listed.
  12. 5 points
    MMCollector

    New Watch Repairman (Lady)

    I have finally found time to post the pictures of the lot that I bought. There are more that I have bought one by one, however, these came all in one package (with batteries!). I have fixed most with just a battery change. Any other Mickey Mouse Watch fans out there? I have turned into a MM watch collector and I LOVE IT!
  13. 5 points
    oldhippy

    Pin Pallet Beat

    The pivots on these pocket watches need to have a sharp point. I used to re-point them in my lathe using an arkansas stone with a drop of oil. You need to make sure the cups are good as they wear on the inside and can be very rough. You should be able to get an estimate where to pin by refitting the balance and threading the hairspring so the impulse pin is in the centre of the pallet fork.
  14. 5 points
    OK. This is the sort of thing that I might get into. I'm happy to help if I can when you get stuck. With regards to the movement, here's the easy answer: Log in and join RolexForums.com and check the for sale section. Recently a member there had (several) NOS 3135 movements for (if memory serves) $2000.00 each. That's a good price and it will have that off your plate. Yes, it's two grand, but you can easily amass that in replacement parts, assuming you don't cause collateral damage during tear-down or re-assembly... And, the upside is that the swamped movement can be retained for you to learn and work on at your leisure. I noticed a question regarding refinishing the dial. I would avoid this. These Yacht-Masters have a platinum plated textured dial. I encourage you to make friends with your local dealer's watchmaker (if they even have one on staff) and arrange a service dial from Rolex. This is ONLY done on an exchange basis, and must go through an authorized retailer. You may be able to get one through the selling members on RolexForums too- I do see loose dials there often so it is possible. I don't know if the exchange will be less than a purchase through the forum, but you should avoid refinishing because it's not a simple job (and therefore will be expensive). DO NOT buy this dial on eBay unless it is sealed in a Rolex blister pack. Fakes abound... You will need a new set of hands too. And the bezel assembly (I think the insert is Platinum as well so sit down before requesting the quote) Case restoration- you need gaskets at the very least, crystal obviously (these are easy to get) and a crown tube tool. CasKer has the tools (decent quality) for not a ton of money. The tube needs to come out, have all threads inspected/cleaned, new O-rings installed and the tube re-installed with low strength locktite (purple). Maybe you should consider new tube and crown (I would). That's a 703 crown and tube. Those can be found on eBay for a few hundred bucks pretty easily. Again, make sure they are sealed in their blister unless you are VERY sure of the seller and the part you are buying. Maybe the case needs a buff. There is no easier way to destroy a Rolex case than to take it to the buffing wheel. THIS is an absolute art, and should be left alone. Get a Sunshine cloth for the polished sides and be happy with that. Seriously. If it's really ugly, send it to a pro. Maybe ABC watchworks out west- someone who specializes in vintage stuff. They will preserve the case shape where even the local Rolex repair center may not. I do my own, but I know my limitations and those were learned the hard way... But the case needs to be absolutely clean. Tear it completely down (you will probably need the bezel removal tool in addition to the case back tool shown above) and reduce it to all it's parts. Remove all traces of old o-ring that may be present. I like Acetone for this- it may need to soak a while. All oil, dirt, old o-ring etc. must be gone. Then, assuming it is polished to your satisfaction, the reassembly process can begin. Also mentioned above (I do this exact same thing) take a picture of EVERY disassembly step as you go. That goes for the case as well as the movement. Something you were not focused on during disassembly may become critical for reassembly. This is really easy now with phones.
  15. 5 points
    khunter

    How am I supposed to get this out

    A safer route would be a small pin vice, less chance of damaging the screw...
  16. 5 points
    Marc

    How to separate third wheel from bridge?

    What you have is an indirect centre seconds configuration where the third wheel has an extended staff that comes up through the bridge to the back of the movement. An intermediate centre seconds drive wheel is friction fit onto the extended staff which couples with the centre seconds pinion. you will probably find there is a friction spring sitting on top of the centre seconds pinion to control the inevitable stutter that these design suffer from. This was the how all centre seconds configurations were executed when centre seconds first became a thing. It's a perfectly good way to achieve centre seconds without bu$$ering about too much with the rest of the movement but it has a couple of drawbacks. The stuttering is one of them, the other is it makes the movement quite thick. Anyway, the circular plate that you refer to is not a separate part, it is a thickening of the hub of the intermediate wheel in order to provide enough meat for a competent friction fit on the staff. There is a Presto tool specifically designed for removing these, and I have also seen some very nice pullers that people have made, but a pair of very thin levers or blades usually does the trick if you are careful. And you do have to be careful. The extended staff does not take kindly to anything other than a perfectly vertical lift; cant the wheel off of erpendicular to the staff and the staff will snap. Reinstall using a staking tool to keep everything nice and true.
  17. 5 points
    noirrac1j

    Omega Constellation 504

    It doesn't get enough wrist time, but I wore my little (34mm) omega in to work today. Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk
  18. 5 points
    machining, model engineering, some electronics, writing articles on the craft, some photography (most for articles). Been at if for close to 30 years, I sure didn't know I end up this deeply into it (nor did the wife!) Things I've made: https://imgur.com/a/d2Y3a My garage shop: https://imgur.com/a/g8aKm My basement shop: https://imgur.com/a/BHIf1 added the M1, an Aciera F1 and another Schaublin 70 since taking those. Am now truly out of space.
  19. 5 points
    dwhite

    My pocket watches

    I envy you! I also buy them broken but make them more broken.
  20. 5 points
    clockboy

    Loupes

    Generally the stronger the magnification the shorter the focal length. Therefore you will need various lopes. I have found this article on the web which explains better than I could. PS I also use a microscope for the really close stuff such as hairsprings. BASIC TECHNICAL STUFF: MAGNIFICATION AND WORKING DISTANCE The following applies to simple lenses, including all jewellers loupes. The following does not apply to 'surgeons' magnifiers which are made of two small telescopes. THE 14 INCH RULE Some magnifiers are marked with the magnification, some are marked with the focal length (working distance) in inches. The focal length (working distance) is the ideal distance between the lens and the object, not too close (or the lens won't magnify) and not too far (or the image appears wavy). And if you hold the lens MUCH too far from the object, the image will appear upside down. Most people don't understand 'focal length' and so when they see a '3' (for some reason eyeglasses are often marked like this) they think it means "3X magnification" when it really means "three inch focal length". Matters are made worse by the fact that many manufacturers are 'approximate' in their calculations, you can measure the working distance of a 1" magnifier and find it is nearer to 2". So what is the relationship between focal length (working distance) and magnification? Here is the way I used to calculate it. If you take a 'normal' working distance for reading to be 14", then a 7" magnifier brings you twice as close = 2X magnification. This '14 inch rule" is what I used in my catalogue to calculate magnification up until 2011, and the arithmetic works out like this: 1.5 inch = 9.3X magnification 2 inch = 7X magnification 2½ inch = 5.5X magnification 3 inch = 4.5X magnification 3½ inch = 4X magnification 4 inch = 3.5X magnification 5 inch = 2.8X magnification 6 inch = 2.3X magnification 7 inch = 2X magnification 8 inch = 1.8X magnification 9 inch = 1.5X magnification This '14 inch rule" is the way I used to calculate it; it is also the way our manufacturer of watchmakers eyeglasses calculates it, the numbers convert nicely from inches into more-or-less whole numbers for 'magnification', as you see from the chart above. THE 10 INCH RULE Then I discovered that according to the almighty Wikipedia the 'normal' working distance for a lens is 10 inches. This is rather neat because (as you will see if you read the extra-technical stuff below) 10 inches is about 25cm, and 25cm X4 = 1 meter (near enough), and physicists use 1 meter as the definition of 'standard' focal length (not very practicable as a 'working distance')...but don't worry about that, all you need to know is - the way I calculate magnification now falls in line with the 'official' method you find online, like this: 1 inch = 10X magnification 2 inch = 5X magnification 2½ inch = 4X magnification 3 inch = 3.4X magnification 3½ inch = 2.8X magnification 4 inch = 2.5X magnification 5 inch = 2X magnification 6 inch = 1.7X magnification 7 inch = 1.5X magnification 8 inch = 1.3X magnification 9 inch = 1.1X magnification These numbers aren't as good as the old "14 inch rule". For instance, both a 3½ inch and a 4 inch lens have a magnification of about 3X. And both a 5 inch and a 6 inch lens both have a magnification of about 2X. And I get customers who think I'm being evasive when I describe two eyeglasses as being, "about the same magnification". If you would like to try out different focal lengths and magnifications to see how they convert (using this "10 inch rule"), go to my conversion program, click here (it's an Excel file, so you might have to select OPEN). WHAT DO OPTICIANS AND SCIENTISTS SAY? This entire system of magnification being "how many times bigger than normal" (or "X magnification") mystifies opticians. What is 'normal'? It varies from person to person. For an optician, a lens has a focal length - a number that can be calculated, not a 'magnification' relative to normal'. If you really want a definition of 'normal' you should use the standard distance (focal length) used by physicists: 1 meter. But by this definition you need awfully long arms to hold a 'normal' lens in one hand and a book one meter away in the other hand. Also, the human eye often requires more than 'just a bit of help with magnification'. That is why you go to an optician - because he has spent years studying optics rather than reading an entry in Wikipedia. I am not an optician and my knowledge of the maths of optics is shamefully poor. I will, however, attempt to guide you through the mysteries of magnification in the following few paragraphs. They are a bit technical, so you may prefer to skip them and go straight to 'CONCLUSION'.. ADVANCED TECHNICAL STUFF The following calculations apply to simple lenses, including all jewellers loupes. The following does not apply to 'surgeons' magnifiers, which are made of two small telescopes, or to microscopes. FOCAL LENGTH, DIOPTRES AND MAGNIFICATION "Working distance" is the same as focal length. The focal length is the distance you hold the lens from the object that gives the most magnification and the clearest image; it is also the point at which a distant bright object (e.g. the sun) makes the smallest image (e.g. to make a fire using the sun); it is also the distance at which you can project a bright scene onto a surface (stand in a dimly-lit hallway and project the image of a bright window onto the wall). Try it with any magnifier, the distance from the lens to the object will be the same with each of the above experiments, this is the focal length of the lens. In practical terms we can also describe this as, "the [ideal] working distance." 'Dioptre' is the reciprocal of the focal length. The dioptre is the measurement used by opticians and lens-makers, it is more reliable than defining magnification as "how much larger than normal an item appears". This is because "normal" varies from person to person (there is no rule that says you have to hold a book ten inches from your eyes!). 'Dioptre' is the reciprocal of the focal length. To write this as a formula, call the magnification M (if you prefer you may say P for power rather than M for magnification...but let's keep things simple) and the focal length f (in meters not inches) which gives: M = 1 / f. But this 'magnification' is based on the physicist's 'standard' focal length of 1 meter. If you assume 'normal' working distance for a human holding a magnifier to be a quarter of a meter (about ten inches*) then you must divide by four. The formula for converting dioptre to magnification is therefore M = D / 4. * this is not because there is anything special about 10 inches, merely that it works nicely as a number, because 10 inches is almost 250mm = 0.25m, which is why we divide by four. This is one of two accepted formulae for calculating magnification. The above formula works beautifully for small powerful magnifiers such as jewellers loupes and small readers. For instance, for a magnifier with a focal length of 30mm: 1 / 0.03m / 4 = X8.33 magnification. But this formula is based on two assumptions: a) that the object is held at the 'ideal' distance from the lens (its focal length) to give maximum magnification that the lens is held very close to your eye so that your eyes are focusing into the distance (at infinity). This doesn't work for large lenses with long focal lenses. For instance, if we apply the formula to a large reading magnifier with a focal length of 500mm we get 1 / 0.5m / 4 = X0.5 magnification. Oh dear, that can't be right, it looks as if it reduces rather than magnifies. In a sense, this is true, if you place an object 500mm from the lens and hold the lens against your eye, it won't magnify at all. What you must do is move the object closer than 500mm from the magnifier (the magnification will be less) then move your eye away from the magnifier. Your eyes are no longer looking into the distance (infinity) but are focusing closer. To allow for this there is another accepted formula for calculating magnification: D / 4 + 1. Applying this to our magnifier with a 500mm focal length, we now get 1 / 0.5m / 4 + 1 = magnification X1.5, which is more plausible. All of these figures for 'magnification' are approximate, and there are many reasons for this. Firstly, it depends which formula you use (see above). Secondly, if the result looks clumsy (e.g. a magnification of X8.333) the supplier will round it up or down. Thirdly, how much closer than your 'normal' reading distance an object appears depends on what is 'normal' for you. Fourthly, if you use the "ten inch rule" (see explanation above, and also my magnification calculator) instead of the formula, you get slightly different figures because ten inches isn't exactly 250mm. Fifthly, even when you go to the trouble to measure the focal length and calculate the magnification, you will often find that what is printed on a magnifier is simply wrong. If you think this is all a little confusing, it is. In fact, it's very confusing. For instance, if you place the object too close to the lens (less than its focal distance) the magnification will be less, and if you hold your eye away from the lens, the magnification will appear to be more. One nationally-known company specialising in magnifiers consistently used the first formula, above (D / 4). As a result, most of their magnifications were listed as being less than one, indicating that they made everything appear smaller rather than larger. Then they re-printed their brochure, listing magnifications consistent with the second formula, D / 4 +1. The famous optical company Zeiss produce a standard 10X jewellers loupe with two lenses, they fold out and can be used individually or on top of each other (the two magnifications simply add together). At one time they quoted the magnification of the two lenses as 6.66X + 3.33X = near enough 10X when used together; then it became 6X + 4X = 10X; now they label it 3X + 6X = 9X. I don't believe they have been changing the lenses each time, the slight variations are due to the way they calculate 'magnification' then round the figures up or down. IF YOU WEAR SPECTACLES If you wear spectacles, should you keep them on whilst using a magnifier? When using a large magnifier (e.g. for reading) the answer is: yes. I assume, here, that you need a magnifier because the print / map / mark is exceptionally small and you need that extra help in addition to your spectacles. When using a small magnifier (e.g. a jeweller's loupe or watchmaker's eyeglass): do whichever is the most comfortable, but you must keep the magnifier as close to your eye as possible. The only time you may wish to think about whether to keep your spectacles on or take them off is if you are wearing a magnifier over your head (a binocular headband magnifier), they can be used with or without spectacles, as follows: If you are short-sighted (you have difficulty in seeing far objects, your spectacle lens prescription has a power beginning 'minus' ) you will notice that when using the magnifier without your spectacles the working distance is less than marked on the magnifier. If you are very short-sighted you will also notice that if you don't use a magnifier you can focus on very close objects - you have magnifying eyes for close objects (the only drawback being that you can't focus on far objects). The consequence is that with a binocular magnifier you may choose between two magnifications: one (weaker / further away) when you wear the magnifier over your distance spectacles and one (closer / stronger) when you wear the magnifier without spectacles, whichever you find the most comfortable. If you are long-sighted (you have difficulty in seeing near objects, your spectacle lens prescription has a power beginning "plus") you will notice that when using the magnifier without your spectacles, the working distance is more than stated on the magnifier. If you are very long-sighted you will also notice that a low-power magnifier doesn't actually magnify at all, it merely brings close objects into focus at a 'normal' viewing (e.g. reading) distance, which is exactly what your reading spectacles do: they are low-power magnifiers. The consequence is that with a binocular magnifier you may choose between two magnifications: one (stronger / closer) when you wear the magnifier over your spectacles and one (weaker / further away) when you wear the magnifier without spectacles, whichever you find the most comfortable.
  21. 5 points
    I bought myself a car dent removal tool and tried it today on a few pocket watches i had with good dents. Worked great. Just tap frequently and use the right size end depending on the diameter of the dent. They work the tool in small circles around the dent or back an forth for long line dents. Here are my results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. 5 points
    Kevin

    Lubricants

    I have to say the oil side of watch repair makes me smile. Back in November put in an order for a 55 gallon drum of 1000 weight steam oil for my traction engine. I buy about one drum a year and it lasts well. Two weeks ago I ordered most of the oils I thought I would need for watch repair, the total quantity came to about 14ml of oil. I paid a third of the cost of my 55gallons on the watch oils. After the panic had subsided I realised that the 14ml of oil would probably last me most of the rest of my life. Seemed a cheap hobby after that! Merry Christmas to you all!
  23. 5 points
    Endeavor

    Omega 18SPB Pocket Watch

    Hello All; I received an Omega 18SPB gold-plated pocket watch, allegedly a non-runner. It was a heirloom item and had to be passed on to the younger generation. Luckily it wasn't a total "non-runner"; after a full wound it ran for 7 hrs. The small seconds-hand was missing and there were visible signs of dirt inside the case & movement. According to bidfun-db ( http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2ustu&1095006620), it is a "Gents Omega Hunter", from the 1924 era and the 18SPB movement has 15-jewels, a bi-metallic screw balance with a Breguet hairspring. Here are some pictures of the watch in the condition I received it; Front cover and dial; Notice the dirt on dial and on the inside of the bottom edge glass ... Rear covers and movement; The 18SPB movement seems pretty straight forwards and judging the case marks / movement-screws-heads; not very often "messed" with. The case numbers did match-up and the gold-plating wear on the case & the chain seem to match up as well. Also the tapered chain seems the original & authentic one; a great bonus ! Before removing the winding stem, remove the residual power in the main-spring; in this case there wasn't any residual power left (?). To pull the winding stem, the set lever screw has to be undone by 1-1/2 to 2 turns; After removing the winding stem, there are two case-screws which have to be taken out. It's a "front loader", the movement is placed inside the casing through the front. Flipped the case over and carefully remove the glass & bezel ...... both the glass and bezel are of very thin material ...... Carefully remove the movement. There is a thin ring around the movement, between the bottom of the movement and the watch case; not shown in the picture. The hands are a straight pull up. The dial is attached to the movement by three (3x) dial-screws, each with a roughly 120 degrees spacing in between; Stripping the keyless works, minute and hour wheel revealed some excessive lubrication; Note; the winding pinion didn't come out at this stage. Pulled the canon-pinion but left both keyless-springs (left and right) in place. Keep an close eye on the minute pinion, which protrude above the main-plate !! Flipped the movement over and removed the balance. Thereafter removed the pallet-bridge, the pallet and the wheel bridge. Note that the crown wheel screw is left-handed, but hasn't got the triple markings some left-hand screws have; Removed ratchet wheel and the crown wheel, also note there is an additional washer underneath the crown wheel; Removed the wheel train, barrel-bridge, spring-barrel, winding pinion and the set lever screw. All items collected in a tray; Opened up the main-spring barrel; Took the old spring out and I have to say that the old spring wasn't eager to get its freedom back ! Before I started on the watch, I asked under the "Watch repairs Help & Advice" the forum for some help. A very educative discussion followed; Luckily I received some excellent help from JohnR725 and StuartBaker104. Both noticed that a wrong main-spring was fitted. The spring fitted had a "normal-bridle", whereas the barrel needed a "DBH" special bridle. This meant that the old spring was not a good reference for a new spring With the help of both forum members above, and the "Spring calculator" on David Boettchers website; http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/mainsprings.php, we were able to guesstimate which spring was needed. The internal barrel diameter was 14.4mm. Feeding this number in the "Reverse engineering calculator" yielded the follow answer: Spring thickness = 0.177, length = 450, turns = 6.4, area = 55%. From measuring the barrel, the maximum allowable height of the spring was 1.9mm. Scrolling through CousinsUK list for 1.9mm high DBH springs, the closed match was spring GR5617DBH which dimensions were 1.9x0.18x440x14.5 (Height x thickness x length x washer ID). That was the spring which was ordered, pictured below; Even though the spring fitted from the washer inside the barrel, I couldn't engage the hook, so the spring had to be unwound. Note the difference in the amount of "un-cloiling" between the old tired spring and the eager spring. No wonder there was no residual power in the old spring left after 7 hrs running ! Fitted the new spring and it was a perfect fit While this all with the spring was going on, StuartBaker104 made me aware of an eBay auction for a lot of small fusee seconds-hands. The auction ended late in the evening and I throw in a bid, never thought to win it. Lo and behold, I did win !! Whether they fitted had to be seen, but judging the sellers pictures, they had to be close. Thanks again for the tip Stuart ! While the hands were on their way, I thoroughly cleaned and de-magnatized the movement parts. To be continued in part II since I nearly lost all my work above; about 2 hrs of work !! This program doesn't allow intermediate saving, which isn't so good ! @Mark: can that be changed ?
  24. 5 points
    joelcarvajal

    The Joy of Building a Watch

    And so after more than a year later, I am finally done with this project. And this is the finished project. Honestly, I still don't like how it looks overall. But I'll be wearing this one proudly for sure. Sent from my ASUS_Z010D using Tapatalk
  25. 5 points
    This is Elgin 18 from the late 19th century. I really like the watch, but it needs a lot - hands, balance staff, hairspring and crystal. Anyway, I just could not get the bezel to unscrew, impossible to get a grip. I found a video by tshackantiques on how to remove bezels (or backs) using a hot glue gun. I couldn't believe how well it worked! Run a bead of hot glue carefully around the bezel. The heat expands the bezel which helps. Stick the lid from an appropriately sized jar to the bezel. While the glue is still in a plastic state, it has a lot of holding power and the grip the lid gives makes it a piece of cake to unscrew the bezel. When cool, it does not stick to the metal and picks off very easily.
×