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http://mms.epubxp.com/i/891901-nov-2017/76?m4= Page 74 of this E magazine has a watch manufacture article you may find interesting.

Hi all, It's been a while since I posted anything here but tonight I was working on a watch and I thought there might be some interest in looking at it. The customer said the second hand would move but the hour and minute hands wouldn't. Usually that means the minute wheel assembly has became worn however today that part had became seized onto the center tube. Anyway I took a picture of what is under the dial of a 218 in case there was any interest. Notice the three springs that are laying about. The first time I tried working on one of these I lost every one of those things and maybe some of the other parts as well. I told my wife it was like trying to bait a mouse trap after you had already cocked it. Anyway I have this watch going now and here's what it looked like before. Charles K

I have been working on a Seiko Quartz watch and I could not get the bezel off using my case knife like I can usually so I decided it was time for some new tools, especially as Eternal tools had a 15% off sale. I cashed in some of my bitcoin I purchased a few years back and managed to buy all this. Thirty seconds with the Horotech case opener and I had the bezel off. I also got myself a couple diamond files and expanded my range of Horotech screwdrivers too. This should satisfy my new tool craving for a few weeks. :-)

Hi, I'm an amateur watchmaker from Canada. My name is Yuriy. I started this hobby in 2014. And Mark's YouTube video were my support in baby steps. Going to participate in the community. Hope to find friends here. Regards Yuriy

You are responding to a 2 yrs old thread. The OP most likely is not even reading this forum anymore.

buy the book

Bookmarking to read later, looks interesting! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ooops about the second hand[emoji16] And if wrong screws used on the pallet fork bridge and they're not flush, as "Anilv " pointed out can cause issues. If screws are being mixed up, you can always screw back in whilst stripping the movement down. I like to use multiple dishes. 1. Balance and pallet. 2. Motion works. 3. Barrel bridge etc. 4. Train . 5. Keyless works. Looks like your Rotor has worn. Common problem. Not from any weakness in design from Seiko but years of neglect and correct maintanance. I don't believe bearings can be serviced, so if the autowind is failing, a replacement will be required. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Well, you're not going to believe this. I feel so embarrassed. Apparently the second hand bent slightly and pressed against the minute hand and that is why the movement was not starting. I sorted out the hands just before going to bed and now I reinstalled the pallet fork and hairspring and it all works. Bonus question: the oscillating weight seems to be a bit wobbly. I think the ball bearings are loosened or something like that. It makes a bit of noise and if pressed downwards it touches the metal plates beneath slightly. Can the ball bearing for this movement's rotor be replaced ? I noticed that some are press fit and they just get replaced.

Just a quick hello. Pretty new to all this but have had an interest i watches for many years. Along with Steam engines and motor cycles. Kevin.

HI Thought I should show my collection. No real theme just watches I like.

Fantastic! I love it when a plan comes together... 11/10 for tenacity I’m sure you’ll be taking extra care while you tweak that beat error, and you may have altered the thermal compensation ever so slightly, but I doubt that will be something to worry about!

Hi again, You may notice that once the spring for the date jumper is in place the date ring moves. I just let it and center it up after I have the date ring guard in position with one screw loosely in place. This means there is less tension on the spring and it is less likely to run off. My technique anyway.

That is an alleged defect of the B version only, but OP has A version, which also has no "Etachron". However, all run (poorly) even with the HS dislodged from the regulator.

Check 1. Hairspring is in between regulator pins. The earlier 7s26 (ans 7s36) had a habit of the hairspring getting dislodged. 2. Correct screw used for pallet cock. Yhe correct one has a shallow/thin head. If wrong screw used it can rub on the balance. Hope you find the problem! Anilv

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/pocket-oiler-multi-purpose Something like this would probably be perfectly adequate for practice purposes. just squeeze a little out into an oil cup -- cheap plastic ones should be available --, obviously. Though you probably don't need to spend an absolute fortune to get the minimum to lubricate a watch 'more or less' right. D5(high friction points) 9415 (escapement) and.... either 9010 (Thinner, more optimal for modern timepieces and quartz) or 8000 (thicker and better for pocket watches.) for gear trains, you could probably just use one of those, i think either one would still be 'ok' used on what its not optimal for. (note: plastic wheels may not like oils not designed for plastics) Might not be seen as the right attitude with lubrication, most people take a more 'all or nothing' perfectionist stance, but that's what i would say to a beginner.

The trick is a lot of sellers don't know what they are and think they are vices or draftmans tools. I regularly (read daily) do ebay searches just on the word 'watchmaker' and then select it to only show me 'used' items, thats the way I find most items. There is one set on ebay now finishing in a couple of days and was another set that just finished a day or two ago. I would be bidding on this set myself if I hadn't just spent several hundred on other tools. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Watchmakers-tools-set-of-cased-holding-pin-vices-numbered-set-of-6/362173530735?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Sorry for dragging your post off topic Jdrichard, nice job I've yet to try to replace any rubbed in jewels myself, I'm still after a closing set of tools