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There is a book Donald DeCarle: Practical watch adjusting. Stepy-by-step checks to make sure everything is ok which is adding to the rates. These are not that bad results. But from a swiss movement we can get some more. Good amolitudes suggesting You can skip the mainspring and gear train part As JDM said, Du/DD deviance suggesting to much endshake. Jeweling tool needed here adjusting the whole setting depth. Hairspring should be tinkered to proper vertical rates. Or You just adjust it to Your average hand (left or right, top or bottom on the wrist) positions. And what about the beat rate and the sound pattern? All ok? No other issue?

I just completed cutting my first balance staff on a lathe. All went well on the balance/hairspring side, including undercutting and leaving enough material to make the rivet. On the roller table side however, i cut a smidgen too much. Is there any way to tighten the roller table on or di i need to cut a new staff? I thought shellac on the post would harden and keep the table on. I still need to jacott the pivots, so am i waisting my time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You just found my video again Above i am shiwing an easy method how to find the point

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Hi, I have an Oris watch based on the Sellita SW200-1 movement (a copy of the ETA 2824) that I am considering performing dynamic poising on. I'm fairly new to this, having done it on three low-end watches so far with reasonable success, following the procedures outlined here. Here are the rates and amplitudes at low amplitude (~155°) and at full wind: Position Rate (low wind) Amp Rate (full wind) Amp DU -26 166 -5 303 DD -20 171 +4 301 PL -20 152 -7 287 -22 148 -10 281 PU -20 155 -1 287 -44 148 +3 284 PR -39 160 +9 285 -45 155 +8 289 PD -39 151 +5 279 -32 149 -2 280 Of course the first thing I want to do is to align the DU and DD rates. But the amplitudes are nearly identical, at least a full wind. What could be causing a nine-second difference in DU vs. DD with virtually no amplitude difference? Thanks, Russ

Are you saying the watch is fixed ? The crown looks fine and of very good quality. Was the stem broken ? The case back from the photo's looks like the Rolex type. If you can do the basics yourself. It's normally going to be more economical to replace a quartz movement than have it repaired, unless we're going into the higher quality Eta ebauche etc Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

there is watch repair school in Finnland, but they refuse to speak English.

Back in the 1970s there were numerous independent watch repair shops and watch repair schools. Once the major Swiss factories figured out that they could extort their customers by refusing to sell replacement parts and threatening to cancel the warranties, if anyone except the factory opened the watch, the independent watch repair shop was doomed to extinction. This also spelled the end of the line for most of the watch schools and apprenticeships. The watch schools now are financed by the major watch factories (Swatch, Rolex etc.) to train people to work in their facilities. Unfortunately, although the schools are excellent, the factory job can't begin the provide the variety of challenges that can be learned from an independent repair shop. A student can graduate from a fine watch school and end up spending years black polishing balance cocks or loading staffs and balance wheels into a pneumatic staking press. In my view most of the interesting challenges are in the amateur sector repairing and restoring watches as a hobby. That said, the BHI course is one of the last home study accredited horological institutions that will offer their program to someone wishing to pursue watch restoration and repair as a hobby or even a part time business. david

Quite often women's watches from that period are also called trench watches and described as 'officers watches' as sellers think they will sell for more money if advertised that way. This is not a hard and fast rule, but if the dial is less than 28mm or has gold decoration on it, it is probably a woman's watch, not a trench watch. Nothing wrong with collecting 1920s women's watches, I've got a couple which I have restored for my wife, with one of them being sold as an 'Officers Trench watch' which it obviously wasn't as it was a woman's watch and hallmarked 1922, but it was still a nice watch and I got it for a good price.

First, I'd say, disregard the values when unwound. Good timekeeping can be had on Swiss movements only above 220 deg - you can find various discussions on the subject here. Then I can only suppose that the minimal difference between DU/DD is due to some end shake issue, where the balance and/or the escape wheel aligns in a very slightly different way. I'm sure this must be discussed in some advanced book or school under the chapter "positional adjustment", but wouldn't know where. By the way, there is a section here where most people like to introduce themselves before asking questions.