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I was waiting for the cleaning cycle to finish and I came across this board. Some of the posters are pretty serious and that is a pleasant thing to see. I have been updating my website to highlight pages that may be of interest to the membership http://historictimekeepers.com/Notes for Watchmakers.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/Microscopes.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/measurement_in_watchmaking.htm I am trying to leave a trail of bread crumbs so that younger watchmakers do not have to learn the hard way like I did. I do need to put together a book list (Jendritski, Perkins, Whitney, Wild, Gazeley, the Argus Shop series, Sherline book, etc) that gets people away from relying on bad information or writers who leave Easter Eggs for the reader to figure out. If people have a topic they would like me to add, let me know. My goal is to fill the space of how things are done which tends to be glossed over. For example, using an adjustable hotplate instead of an alcohol lamp for bluing and shellacking, etc. Things I have found that make life easier and increase the probability of success. Regards, Dewey

That's great Rogart. That is brilliant detective work. I have tried searching for suppliers and even on Ebay for spares but no luck. It is a mystery. Let me know how you get on with those movements you have. Andy

I had one issue with the parrot-beak-like wheel that pushes the calendar wheel tooth (and is connected with the hour wheel) - the beak was worn out (part 38 - Date indicator driving wheel) - it wasn't pushing the date wheel tooth enough.

What can happen and has happened to me is if you fit the wrong screw when assembling the escape side it is proud on the dial side and stops the calendar ring moving.

There must be something that doesn't sit right in the keyless work. There is usually no problem with the 7s26 movements when it comes to that . Could have jumped off here at the black ring or the arm has slide over the clutch wheel (red ring) Which could happen if you pull the stem to fast out. But you need to take the dial of to find out

1- check that the date ring is perfectly flat (lay it on a mirror or similar) 2- check for friction marks anywhere, bent teeth, 3 (possibly should be 1) check that you've used the right screw for the set lever spring, if the head is touching the bottom of the date ring, it'll lock it up solid.. I personally use a grease on the date teeth, greasing the jumper once every 10 teeth Tom

Welcome - I also know Hastings well - living just across the border in West Sussex. Good to see you here. Will

Welcome to this friendly forum. I have visited Hastings many times over the years being a Kent boy myself. A few pics of your restorations would be very much appreciated by many on this forum.

Welcome, that are quite interesting projects you have on the go. Sharing knowledge is what it is all about here

You need if ou want a original omega crystal a PZ5000. Which i recommend. It fits much better then a sternkreuz. At least on a Omega. I think the 2921 has a crystal ring? That you need to remove first.

Thanks, it's a rugged one. The tube should have stayed in but I think my cleaner flung it out. I use an L&R mechanical. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I've got about 30 years experience behind me as a watch maker and a clock maker. So if I can help in any way just ask.