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Staying with Seiko, my 6319-5010 with NOS crystal. Sent from my Honor 5c

My personal experience: I have been looking for a Landeron case for months, if not a couple of years, and only ran across a couple, that I immediately bought no matter the price and shipping cost. They are rare, so I didn't want to loose the chance to complee a couple of projects I had aside. Which btw are still under development... This one in particular is almost complete: I am only missing the proper set of hands... The movement is a completely restored Landeron 248.

I gather you had trouble putting in the pallet fork.... With the balance spring out of the way, wind the movement up a little, and with brass tweezers barely touch the end of the pallet fork: It should swing to the opposite end quickly and with no hesitation. If it does that, then make sure you place the hairspring jewel just ahead of the pallet fork. This requires a slight rotation and manipulation of the hairspring before you tighten it. Often It will immediately start running once the pivot settles in and the jewel on the balance hits the pallet fork creating the initial impulse. If that pallet fork doesn't swing freely when gently prodded with a tweezer, take it out and inspect it. P.S. Love that profile pic. JC

I've had/have one or two Rotary watches (with Hattori movements) that only allow you to see the push position through the hole when the stem is in the optimal position for removal...0/I/II, etc...very clever idea.

Quartz testers usually have a line free function which does indeed spin a magnet to drive the mechanism round. No physical connection is made, just the magnetic field. I paid about 30gbp for my tester on eBay. However this movement should be self starting and if you need to spin it up that indicates the mechanics need a service. Cheers Neil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Especially now that Photobucket screwed everyone's posts [emoji35] Sent from my Honor 5c

Bergeon 6767F is your friend. I always remove bracelets/straps before WR testing.

if the screw driver tip does not touch the bottom of the slot, you are driving a wedge in and might spread or break the screw head. have you ever seen a screw head with one side broken off? to prevent making a wedge the blade is "hollow ground". the tip touches the bottom - and 99.5% contact with the sides of the slot. i hate to see a watch with distorted screw heads. use "blueing" to view the contact. vin

It's basically a strong rotating magnetic field which causes the rotor to spin. You don't even need to remove the case back. I have achieved the same effect by using a strong magnet (one of those neodynium ones salvaged from an old computer hard drive) to manually turn the rotor to clear a jam. In so many ways it's a bodge but if it gets a cheap quartz that either isn't worth a strip down clean or whicgh can't be stripped down going again then it is an ok work around.

Had this on today. Decided to pair it with a vintage looking rally strap. Sent from my Honor 5c

Been wearing this Seio 709-5010 that I fully restored....

Being a Mod, there's no time limit for me on editing any posts on the Forum, but - as I recall - it's only about 2-3 minutes before the edit facility closes. There's a reason for the time limit on this sort of forum software - which is to prevent statements being altered. On other, more argumentative forums, this can be crucial. Luckily, we're not that kind of forum and, if we were, I and the other Mods would be wielding big sticks. This is a friendly and supportive site, for which I'm sure we're all grateful! However, the principle of letting original posts stand is a good one. If there's something which you obviously need to amend with hindsight, contact one of the Mods and we'll check and change it for you - at no extra cost!

If they fitted a new battery, they must have known it was not keeping time. At that time there would be no point fitting a new stem. If you left them your details including phone number they should have contacted you, or wait until you called in, they should have given you advice. Then they kept it for two months, If you asked for an estimate only by word of mouth that isn’t a guarantee, if they gave you a receipt stating estimate they have broken there contract to you, there for they are at fault. After being treated like that, I would find a different watchmaker. Do they carry out all repairs on their premises; this is always the first thing to ask.

Without knowing all the details and circumstances... It does sound off... An immediate issue with the time setting after a new winder was made/fitted? Was the watch on the correct time when you recieved it and then lost time requiring you to reset it, or was it simply not set in the first place? Because its pretty hard to imagine making a new winder for it and not bothering to set the time and date, it's like the first thing you do after your satisfied with the fit and you're about to close it up. partly for your convinience and partly to test that everything works as intended. It's possible that when the old stem came out it did damage on its way out, but you should have been told that and that should have been checked before they agreed to a price and proceeded a repair and charged you. from your explanation, If it were me I'd have taken this in for additional repair at no extra charge, with apology, no argument, maybe a bit of confusion, but no argument. To try and charge you again at full whack for 200 extra euros is highely unethical from my perspective. The least they should offer, as i see it, is to do the work for a minimal fee that covers their expenses. (which would be a small fraction of 200 euros I imagine, without knowing the exact movement in your watch) Again, hard to say without first hand experience of the situation, but it sounds wrong.

Hello Vinn, I agree, the drivers must be sharpened to fit the slot but also finished off by flattenning the sharp end of the "Wedge" so that the flat part is in maximum contact with the bottom of the slot and the sides just about touching. It is a painstaking process that has to be done on each size of screwdriver. I have bought Bergeon replacement driver heads rather than do it myself as although I can do it, I am quite lazy though I do "dress my blades" which is not a major bit of work and you usually follow the original design of the blade. The Bergeon replacements are provided in the condition that I try to emulate when forced into adjusting a driver myself. Most of my instruction on such matters was gained from a book "PracticaI Watch Repair by "Donald de Carle" under " Essential Tools" I would never attempt hollow grinding on a small, say .5 mm or any small screwdriver, quite frankly think that reduction of the metal available would weaken the blade considerably. In fact to be honest, I have tried hollow grinding only once, on a 2 mm blade under magnification and life is too short. Having said all that I honestly believe that it is a personal decision and everyone should do what they want to do, if wrong decisions are made you soon realise and move on. Either way this forum is a great place for a frank friendly exchange of views that for an amateur tinkerer like myself has been really useful. Cheers, Vic

sharpening a screwdriver on a flat stone makes a wedge, a wedge will spread the screw slot. or a wedge shaped driver can snap off half the screw head. (have you seen any watch screws with half a head? I have. the screw driver head should reach the bottom of the slot. enough for now, vinn.

Its a good rule to follow, and one that eliminates many problems related to potential conflicting membership interests--which is primarily watch repair. JC

Oh gosh I just use a grinding wheel on my dremel, takes about 5 secs a head

In an ideal world you should have both types. Hollow ground ones will be used but when normal force is not sufficient then the flat sided ones take over as it takes greater force before breaking! In reality this only matters if your working on the top drawer movements like Patek etc. to avoid screw slot damage/ marking. So if you have means to sharpen screwdrivers both hollow and flat sided... it makes sense to hollow ground the smaller sizes and flat grind the larger ones. Personally flat sides have worked for me, but I haven't gotten my hands on a Patek yet! Anil

the hollow grind proceedure is done so that "the sides are nearly parallel" at the slot depth and honing gives you only a slite wedge affect at the slot width. OR what ever it takes to get a tight fit in the slot. Not a big deal ! vinn

i just joined , glad to see no sales, !!

Today I went with a Longines Wittnauer Automatic watch, these actually have a ladies watch movement inside them, probably to keep it slimline.

Last minute change, wore this instead: Seiko 418970 from 1964

Nice job on that Sportmatic BL. Geo I reckon you earned that test drive several times over. I was out on site today so went for something a little more robust than I would for the office. Citizen Promaster, a nice big solid reliable chunk.

I'm still "road testing" the Omega I repaired recently, as my friend not available for another week or so! :)

Think I will give the old Sportsmatic 15040 an airing tomorrow: better clean it up a & bung a strap on it that's better.

Some great watches again today! Today I wore an old Ingersoll watch.

Seiko SKX173, 7s26a 0029 Came to me not running, missing a roller jewel. My first complete tear down, clean and repair. Also first semi successful hairspring mangle :)

It's a Mondia for me today. My first "proper" watch was a Mondia Sea Scout. It was my 16th birthday present from my parents and I still have it, but it was the start of my interest in Mondia watches and I now have 5 of various vintages. This one was an eBay non-runner that required no more than a service and clean up.

Jealous of that Audax. Want it. It's a seiko 5 day for me:

Today I grabbed this pretty much as I got up late after barely any sleep and it was the first watch I laid my hands on. It is a Jaz Paris Quartz fashion watch.

Today I chose a retro Seiko Quartz Sports 150 model with rotating bezel, nothing special but still a pretty solid watch.

All this watch of the day stuff got me going back over my collection to choose one for the next day or three. So, dear members, may I present... the Gruen 370 Precision Curvex!

As Monty Python would say "and now for something completely different", so today I went with a vintage Gruen Veri-Thin which is engraved on the back with the name "Herbert Margulies", there are a couple of people of note with that name according to some preliminary research I did.

Todays choice is a retro Seiko automatic cal 7009 day/date model with silver dial.

Todays choice is a 1968 Timex, this surprisingly is very accurate.

I was going to wear a Date but at the last minute I changed my mind and grabbed this Datejust with computer dial from the watch winder instead mostly because I haven't worn it in a while and it was closer to hand, this one has the solid instead of the hollow center links and the Rolex logo laser etched on the crystal in the 6 o`clock position. The bracelet also has a concealed clasp. I believe I bought this watch new sometime in either 2005 or 2006. I love the weight of this watch, the weight of it always feels reassuring that you are actually wearing a watch.

I have another 6000 almost identical with grey dial only a slightly earlier model, the outer part of the dial on the earlier model is not as shiny as the WH112-K1, the wife took a liking to it and wears it so I wont ever see that again. The one in the picture has a deployment strap and the one my wife borrowed from me has a regular Tag buckle strap. I do also have yet another 6000 series with a white dial on a stainless steel Tag bracelet, pic attached. Yours has a really nice dial, I should pick up one of those at some stage, I also want to add an automatic as well at some later stage.

Today I went with a Tag Heuer 6000 Series that literally screamed "wear me! wear me!"

It's an Alpina day for me!

Today I went with a what I consider to be a nice 1965 Omega Seamaster Cosmic, I have always particularly liked this watch.

Happy Friday....! Wearing my Ruhla UMF ...or is it UMF Ruhla? or even VEB Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla.. Anyway a nice honest little watch but will probably swap out with something a bit more robust for the weekend. Anilv

Wore the Shturmanskie today - a Poljot chronograph that I've owned since it was new. It's showing some wear now, mainly the missing chrono reset stud and not much chrome left on the crown. If anybody can suggest a source for Poljot parts, I'd be grateful! I think Mark recently posted a teardown of this movement. Gryf

Yes I figured it out thanks as the attach option was hidden in the "More Options" section. I'm not used to this particular forum software but will soon get used to it. I'm interested in more or less all kinds of watches, mostly mechanical analog watches but the 1970's LED and LCD watches are kind of fun too which was why I chose to wear that one yesterday. I was never a fan of them at the time but have grown to like them more over the years. You don't see many of them around anymore, especially on someone's wrist! and so it seemed appropriate to wear it. As it is now a new day, a new watch was called for and the pick of te day is a slightly tidier retro Jules Jurgenson Quartz watch.

Hi mk - welcome to the forum - a picture of the watch in question is always acceptable. :-) Cheers, Will