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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/30/17 in all areas

  1. What do you mean? Seiko balance and hairsping are never to be taken apart. To all effects they're one single part. OP: in my experience it takes a of destruction to become proficient with this type of Seiko escapement. Don't be put down, but at the same time do not assume it's easy at all. That even before going to manipulate the HS. Inviato dal mio E5823 utilizzando Tapatalk
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  2. I love this idea - but... At the moment the site looks too much like a funnel site back to his commercial watch repair business. On that basis, I don't want to approve it in the resources section. If this changes it can be re-submitted and I would even get behind it as it looks like it has huge potential.
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  3. The atomic clock is definitely more than good enough, but what is being built is effectively the most sofisticated mechanical clock ever built, just because they can. Apart from the occasional human input which will be be more for the amusement of humans, it will be powered in the same type of way as an Atmos clock which is self perpetuating. This surely will be the most incredible and accurate mechanical horological timepiece ever. With no wires, oscillators or batteries, surely you as a traditional nuts and bolts clock person must like the idea of self perpetuating mechanical horological perfection! I hope they manage to regulate it well, one second a day error would be about 41 days over 10,000 years!
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  4. It depends on how the centre of the hand is constructed. For the hands with pipes a tiny squeeze with a pin vice and for the hands that just have a hole then a tiny tap with a closing punch. HOWEVER always put a brass /steel tapered pin in it,s centre before adjustments. This stops going out of round & gives you an idea of the amount of adjustment being achieved, Hands are very delicate so gently does it when adjusting. Using glue in my opinion is a very bad idea.
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  5. This resonance in case is strange becouse i can hear that in my HMT-s (18000bph) and chinese gmt (dg2813, 21600bph) as well but non of them making noise in the tiemgrapher. As You said, the jingling come and go in regular intervals. I like to listen to it while going to sleep
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  6. I finally latched onto a nice Accutron "Woody " after making several attempts in the past . I can honestly say that I really like this 218 Accutron , probably as much as my 214 Astronaut .
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  7. Thank you for the warm welcome. I'm embarrassed to talk about the collection of horology equipment, its so out of keeping with abilities at this stage. The passion for metal working let me to smaller and smaller lathes and eventually in front some retiring horologists and I just couldn't help myself. I think its a dozen lathes at the moment, from watchmakers stuff to quite large items, at least by home shop standards (biggest is a 5100 lb DSG lathe) along with numerous mills, grinders etc. The collection grossly outstrips need, but I like it and its a bit of a hobby unto itself - Almost all are 'old iron' and I've fully recondition several machines including scraping them as writing a many articles for Home Shop Machinist on various projects I find the clocks and watches really fun and absorbing in that I've machining and mechanical experience but the techniques, mechanism and skill sets required are just so completely new its sort of like being kid again, from a discovery vantage point. i'm sure I'll be leaning on you guys shortly for advice
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  8. Stopwatches are different then regular watches for hand removal. Usually with stopwatches the hands are not removed but the dial is removed with the hands. The hands are friction on with extreme force to a tube that on the backside has a heart shaped cam. So basically the hands go on spring-loaded cannon pinions with a heart-shaped cam used for resetting.
    1 point
  9. We'll, I did a test print on a vintage NOS watch... I think it works.. it's a little lower on the dial than I like but I think the scale is good.
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  10. I wish you well Len. I believe the trimmer can regulates +/- 1.2 seconds per day, please don't go mad in the process of seeking perfection!
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  11. Hello Vinn, I agree, the drivers must be sharpened to fit the slot but also finished off by flattenning the sharp end of the "Wedge" so that the flat part is in maximum contact with the bottom of the slot and the sides just about touching. It is a painstaking process that has to be done on each size of screwdriver. I have bought Bergeon replacement driver heads rather than do it myself as although I can do it, I am quite lazy though I do "dress my blades" which is not a major bit of work and you usually follow the original design of the blade. The Bergeon replacements are provided in the condition that I try to emulate when forced into adjusting a driver myself. Most of my instruction on such matters was gained from a book "PracticaI Watch Repair by "Donald de Carle" under " Essential Tools" I would never attempt hollow grinding on a small, say .5 mm or any small screwdriver, quite frankly think that reduction of the metal available would weaken the blade considerably. In fact to be honest, I have tried hollow grinding only once, on a 2 mm blade under magnification and life is too short. Having said all that I honestly believe that it is a personal decision and everyone should do what they want to do, if wrong decisions are made you soon realise and move on. Either way this forum is a great place for a frank friendly exchange of views that for an amateur tinkerer like myself has been really useful. Cheers, Vic
    1 point
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