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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/17 in all areas

  1. Hello all, I stopped at a garage sale and the homeowner happened to be a seasoned clock repairer! We talked for quite a while and he offered up this hefty and solid Waltham pocket watch. It runs and looks to need some cosmetic work and a cleaning. I got the 'watch guy' pricing of $20 US which I happily paid! He also invited me to go with him as a guest to the next local chapter meeting of the NAWCC, which happens to be in my home town! Garage sales - Hey, you never know! I see this is a full plate and lever set movement. I've not had it apart yet but am wondering if there are specifics I need to be aware of (tear down, escapement style, etc.). Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks! C
    3 points
  2. I’m working on mechanical wrist-watches for two years now and in this time I came very often to one problem concerning watches with a regulator arm. I wanted a watch to run a little bit slower or faster (let’s say 3 seconds), so I had to push the regulator arm a very little distance. On many of my watches these arms have quite a big breakaway torque, so when I increased force and the arm started moving, it jumped a bigger distance than I wanted it to do (of course this led to a timing “correction” of 20 seconds, not the 3 seconds I wanted). Not my idea of regulating, this is just “try and try again, good luck”. Searching some forums on the internet for a tool to do this better I didn’t find a solution for me. So I had a close look at the regulator arms of my watches, did some measurements and finally built this little tool. The tool head grips over the regulator arm while the watch is on the timegrapher and due to the tools long lever arm (which is about 4 inches) I can manipulate the regulator position very precise. Here are some pics of my work on a Rolex 5513 with 1520 movement. The watch ran constantly +4 seconds per day and I wanted to slow it down to +1 second. No problem with the Delgetti-key.
    2 points
  3. No wimpy ebay/made in China, blue plastic. $6 dollar watch demagnetizer here. I got me a badass demagnetizer—a 1902 Boettger & Wittig machine made in the U.S.A (Milwaukee WI). I did find it on ebay and bid $35 to win the auction. I didn’t care if it worked as I could make a steam-punk lamp out of it—If I could also use it to demagnetize watches/tools that would be a bonus. I finally got up the nerve to plug it in and after some trial and error I found that it does work. The tool is not UL listed (to say the least) and if the operator touches the terminals where the vintage lamp cord is connected, or the metal on the draw bar it presumably causes instant electrocution as these parts have 120 volts present. In 1902 electricity was still new and I am guessing that anyone that purchased one of these machines had enough education/common sense to not touch the metal parts with it plugged in. I had a question about its operation as the original instructions really don’t explain the finer points of how it works. The tools can be powered by either direct current (D.C.) or alternating current (A.C.) and both were available in 1902 for consumer use. At the time Westinghouse (A.C.) and Edison (D.C) were battling it out over which one was better—Westinghouse won.I drew arrows to show the flow of current. 120 volts is connected to the screw terminals. The light bulb is in series in the circuit and adds resistance to lower the amount of current flowing to the coil. From the light bulb the wires are connected to a wiper that touches one side of the draw bar (pulled out part way at left—yellow arrows indicate 120v). The other 120v terminal connects to the other side of the drawbar. The coil has two wipers that touch each side of the draw bar. When the drawbar is pulled out the coil wipers alternate between each side of the drawbar (you can see the interlocking pattern of the metal on the drawbar) and thus the coil reverses magnetic polarity as the wiper arms touch the different sides of the drawbar. When plugged in the circuit is in one of three states depending on the position of the drawbar: 1) the light is bright and the coil is not receiving current, 2) the light dims indicating that the bulb is in series with the coil with is now an electro magnet, and 3) the coil 120v supply is reversed and swaps north and south magnetic poles.With a screwdriver inside the coil If I pull the drawbar out so the light is dim (coil is on) and leave it for 4 seconds, then shut the tool off the screwdriver becomes magnetic. If I do the same thing but slowly remove the screwdriver from the coil about 2 ft. then shut the current off the screwdriver becomes demagnetized. The same thing happens when I slide the drawbar in/out but the light flickers as it is intermittent to the circuit. So my question is (finally got there) what advantage does sliding the drawbar out to either magnetize or demagnetize watches/tools have. The tool works the same either way—using the drawbar or just turning on the coil.I included the instructions for reference. They are written in the formal language of 1902 and it is difficult to understand what they are trying to convey.
    2 points
  4. Thanks old hippy, My background is electronics and software, so this is quite a change for me. Very much looking forward to it.
    2 points
  5. Here with have a Longcase clock and a close up of the dial. This is just an example as there are hundreds of various styles of case and dials about all made at various times in the making of Longcase clocks. This type has a very distinctive name. What is the name given to this type of Longcase. I'm not after the name of the type of case.
    1 point
  6. I have the same tool. I think that yours just shorted out. The size/volume/weight of the object placed on the blue tool should not have caused this. I have found that my blue demagnetizer only works for small parts (works well on screws). I have not tried to demagnetize a wrist or pocket watch--seen others do this on Youtube--appears to work. If you are located anywhere near Maryland I would let you use my demagnetizer. Also, if you search ebay for "Vintage watch demagnetizer" you will find other tools similar to the one I just posted for not too much money.
    1 point
  7. The biggest utility is being able to make spare parts for things that are incredibly hard to find, vintage Seikos come to mind. An SLA printer would be a huge asset to a clockmaker. I don't know all of the ways a watchmaker could use it, but being able to print out custom movement holders on demand, complete with pushers built in for chronographs with zero assembly required can save quite a bit of money in the long run. Have a stubborn case back? Well 3d print a nylon rig that engages all the notches on the back to open it with zero chance of scratching it. You can print custom spacer rings on demand for movements too, and also any kind of tray or dust protector you need. It's a very useful tool in many areas.
    1 point
  8. Hi again, I have removed the spring and stem as per photo! What you advised worked perfectly !
    1 point
  9. I don't wash cases and bracelets in cleaning solution, I find washing up liquid and water works fine for them. I leave the solutions just for the watch parts in the main. Stephen
    1 point
  10. I used to filter the cleaner and the rinse. I used the filter paper used for filtering wine or beer, I could get from BOOTS chemist also the filter holder was the correct size for the old L & R jars. For my L&R Vari- Matic Automatic which had round jars I would filter the stuff using a spare L & R jar from the old machine, poring the fluid into an old jug first, washing out the jars in hot soapy water and drying with a clean cloth that didn't leave particles behind.
    1 point
  11. Thank you Very much Rogart63, I won't get the new stem until the 28th, looking at the watch I think you are right, I think I can see the end of the stem. I will attempt to remove it tomorrow in daylight as I struggle with artificial light. Many many thanks for your time and advice it is most welcome. Regards Johnnie
    1 point
  12. Right, if it's a hunter case, which would be a real shame because if the clasp had been modified as a stem retaining spring it would of made this watch really interesting. I don't know the make but I'm assuming it's not expensive I'm thinking it could be a split stem but this is so unlikely on a quartz watch. So I'm thinking it's a normal threaded stem with no visible means of release. So hold the crown and give it a good pull as if it was a split stem and I think it's going to come out. It's rare but some movements are designed that way. OK there is a chance the stem will break or the crown but if the watch needs a battery, what's to loose ??? Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. The gear for the inner bezel could still be in there? Then you will only need a new stem? Those i have seen on Ebay . Crown is the same as the Pogue. There is AM crowns that look almost like the original. Nice watch that is well worth restoring. Have done a few .
    1 point
  14. Interesting regards oil shelf life. Synthetic has practically replaced the old type oils. I wouldn't rush to dispose of your surplus d5. I would be happy to use in 2017 and service the movement or inspect it 3 years later. As a hobby where low volume of oils is going to be used, mobius 9104 is a far better choice than d5. It's suitable for all d5 applications and is fully synthectic and is good for 5 to 7 years at least. I sort of think regards shelf life while the oil is reducing friction, lubricating, not gumming up, it's good to go. I suspect specific shelf life is more to do with marketing ploys than reality but it shouldn't be ignored Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  15. That's goo to know:) For us rookies Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  16. http://bhi.co.uk/training-education/distance-learning/ £395 + Postage and packing of written materials.
    1 point
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