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many thanks, will try that !

There are two PDF attached with my pics and comments, hope it is of use to someone. TWSTEEL WATCH.pdf draw_0S20.pdf Cheers, Vic

Ordered this watch today so I could learn to take it apart, clean it and put it back together again. Its a 18 jewel movement that looks to be in pretty good shape. Hopefully no problems and I can just practice dissasembly and assembly.....any thoughts?

Do a forum search on tightening the canon pinion. There are a variety of ways to go about it including using a staking set, nail clippers, modified wire strippers, and dedicated cp tightening tools. Also worth Goodling.

Take your time, and if possible, do some research on that particular movement, so you don't have any surprises.

Looks like you're ready for some fun!

Good choice big, simple and working.

Sometimes you lose, sometimes you win. This 3133 seems to be the latter

And the fourth Poljot 3133 "Civil" arrived today, badly packaged inside a simple bubble envelope, bit still intact. Ironically, it sports a Seiko brown leather band.... Anyways it works fine and keeps excellent time from what I could see. No need to service this one, prolly only a light polish on the glass. Here it is side by side with the bigger brother, the Sturmanskie:

if you could get the correct original Hamilton balance jewel that would be the preferred replacement but you're probably not going to find onet. so removing the old jewel replacing with the modern jewel is perfectly acceptable providing you can get a new tool into the setting. Worse case you might have to make a new setting for your new jewel.

Mill Time Can, A number of years ago I bought a set of Bergeon screwdrivers and ran into the same problem. I solved it by running a 2-56 tap through the hole and replacing the slotted screw with a quality set screw. I have found through the years that having the blade perfectly centered in the holder is more critical on the smaller size blades then the larger sizes. For tiny screws I use screwdrivers that are about 2/3 the size of the Bergeon's that come with a collet to grip the blade. The collet always centers the blade and provides enough gripping force to prevent it from twisting around., The smaller size holder also helps reduce the torque applied to the screw. david

Duly noted, thanks for that !

From the newbie on this forum. Pay attention to these guys, they are steering you in the right direction. I bought a kit very much like yours before I joined the forum. It is a start and there are some good things in this kit but .... You really need a good set of tweezers (take it from someone who tried these kit tweezers) and the heads on the screwdrivers didn't keep a straight edge, on mine the small set screw kept coming out, basically useless. Once you try to put watch hands back on, you will see your tweezers will be worth their weight in gold ! I found most of the watch band tools to be good though, including the small pin removers (really useful for the stem and crown press release button on quartz watches), the only disappointment was the twisting blue device, the pins bend and buckle when you have a stiff pin in the watch band. Your better off with the small hammer, the small pin drivers (those in this kit located with the needle nose pliers and the plastic yellow block. Even the tightest watch band retaining pins don't resist a sharp blow with the small hammer. As a kit, it is better suited for watch bands and the small parts of a watch. Here's my assessment of the kit, I hope it helps !

Agreed, I started with cheaper screwdrivers and did upgrade to Bergeon, mainly because I found the cheaper ones needed more maintenance. There are a lot of look alike Bergeon's made in China, probably not worth the money. I have found good used tools on auctions at reasonable prices, just a lot of time spent searching/bidding. If your source turn out to be good, then make an effort to purchase. Your choices would depend if the majority of repairs are either wrist or pocket watches. In other words, if the bulk of your repairs are wristwatches, then a crystal lift is essential. Mainspring winders are also optional if you get good enough to wind spring into barrel by hand. (easier on pocket watches than wristwatches). Those all in one "kits" are cheap, for a reason. While they provide the basics, but they are not meant to last. Overall a very sound list and advice provided by david. Good Luck!

When starting out in this there is usually an affordability issue. Most of the people who have been doing this for a long time tend to forget the situation they were in when they started out. Many of the more experienced watch repair people are quick to recommend high end professional grade tools to a beginner. After all, one cannot go wrong telling a person buying their first car to purchase a Rolls Royce. It is certainly a nice comfortable car. I feel that it is best to start with a modest investment, then replace and add as your skill level progresses. Clearly the bargain priced tools are not as nice as the high end stuff but they can get the job done. Until a person gets a feel as to what the tools do, and they themselves develop and understanding of the quality differences, it is best to stay with what they can afford until they learn these differences. There is also the more recent issue of inexpensive tools and expensive tools being made in the same Chinese factories. One tool will be stamped made in China while the other tool will say Bergeon, but in truth, both items are made in the same Chinese factory. Outside of the marketing name they are the same tool. With time and experience a person can learn to spot this as well. david

I use Swiss made Vetus tweezers, including No.5, 4 pounds a piece and I'm very happy with'em.

Agree with all of these. J

agree. J

If you have a dedicated workbench, better to buy drivers on a rotating stand. No point in storing them away all the time.