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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/17/17 in all areas

  1. A bit of a moment for me today - officially resurrected my first dead watch! Not exactly a sought after classic, a defunct Seiko quartz V657-7100 that I got off the bay for a few quid. Not working, crystal that was too knackered to see through and full of crud. I took out the movement and gave it a bit of a sloosh, new battery, changed the crystal (first time for that too, loving my new screw down crystal/case press) and gave it all a bit of a polish with some Cape Cod. Although movement was officially working a day or so ago I've been waiting for the press for reassembly - my official timeline stopped when I got it all back together. Bracelets too **BLEEP** small though! And looking at the pics I may have to pop the crystal and align the bezel again. But I'm a proud puppy. Woohoo! Onto the next one...
    3 points
  2. Congratulations and very well done[emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. I'm afraid that my electrode-plating projects have to wait a little as I just couldn't resist a second attempt on a Landeron 48. This is what I just bought. According to the eBay sellers description it is a none runner, balance fine and functions do work. My plan is to describe and picture the journey I will have with this movement. Perhaps find a nice case and give it wrist time again ........ wouldn't that be something?? I still have the winding stem+crown of the first Landeron 48. It will be my first chronograph if succeeded. Needless to say, I could use all the help I can get ! Kitchen sink and all the rest of it Here are the first sellers pictures; As from tomorrow I'll be standing on the corner of the street, awaiting the postman Any first thoughts ?
    1 point
  4. I've just checked and found a couple of nice items waiting for me. Together with the SARB in need of attention these will make my stay oh so much better
    1 point
  5. I would check and see what the old one looks like first, if its bent out of shape then replace it.
    1 point
  6. If this part has been bent or isn't flush and sitting correct it can cause the keyless work to miss function
    1 point
  7. Yes the balance pivot stands on the upper jewel when DU but the Swiss lever escape is a delicate mechanism with a lot of intervening factors, so you have no guarantee whatsoever on the results of partial job, and in fact not even of these of a complete one. Since the timekeeping on the wrist is still good, I recommend leaving this piece undisturbed for the time being.
    1 point
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  9. But there was more to it than I was expecting, since he also sent these pics. Basically a complete watch completely disassembled (probably some parts will be missing, since I don't know what he sold before) needing a lot of TLC...
    1 point
  10. Yes, I've discovered if the part is called "Valjoux" it's going to cost a pretty penny! Alternately, I needed a minute recording jumper for a Venus 170 and was able to find one from a Strela 3017 (formerly Venus 150) that looks like it will work with minor modification... for about a quarter of the cost.
    1 point
  11. Mine arrived today DSC04794 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Having checked they work, I'm happy to report they do indeed work, however, with my old set up, I had my tubed lamps plugged into a remote control power lead extension, and I could easily switch on each lamp remotely, these LED lights on't allow for this due to not having a physical on/off switch. Having press button micro switches, not only do I now need to switch each lamp on physically, the previous light setting brightness level is not stored, and therefore, not only does one have to switch each lamp on via the lamp's control panel, I will need to set each lamp's brightness each and every morning, Oh humbug. That said, I'm quite impressed with them thus far.
    1 point
  12. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  13. Hey Pip Congrats !! Very Similar my first one too !...not working ,new crystal , polish etc and I know exactly your feeling ! Here is a pic of mine... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  14. While I was waiting for the balance wheel to be marked as "shipped", which was earlier today, I sourced out a stem+crown and the operating lever, part 8140. I also bought the lever spring, part 8335, which was not cheap by any means... I hope all arrives for the end of this week....
    1 point
  15. The dial does not need to be removed just to remove the balance. Regulation will not solve the variances between DU & DD positions.
    1 point
  16. cleaning watch plates by hand is not dificult. spend time on the basics.
    1 point
  17. I would stay away from steam because of the heat, more than because of the water. Watch parts are not meant to be exposed to intense heat, I'm not sure how the different metals will react. Some of them will expand more than others, resulting in parts that end up out of alignment. If you're on a budget, use lighter fluid (and a small paint brush for tough dirt) to clean the parts, and then 99% alcohol to rinse and remove any moisture (except for balance wheel and pallet fork). We're talking a $20 investment that will last you a decent time.
    1 point
  18. @chadders1966 whilst searching for a replacement, just for fun why not try and make one. You need some decent springy high carbon steel of about the right thickness, slightly thicker is good, something like an old (but decent quality) hacksaw blade for instance or a piece of old clock main spring. Heat it to a bright cherry red and then let it cool slowly to anneal it so that it can be worked. Next get it to the right thickness by working it on 400 grit wet/dry paper on a sheet of glass using an old champagne cork to hold it flat and keep your fingers out of the way. Work both sides and check the thickness often. Then drill the holes, one for the screw and two for locating dowels. Now superglue the broken pieces to the stock so that the locating dowels are in the holes and the screw hole lines up. Using this template you can cut and file to shape. Once you're happy, remove the template and carefully tidy up the finish, apply any chamfering or counter sinking. It might also be wise to test fit at this stage too although you don't have any locating dowels. Now bind the whole thing in soft iron wire in preparation for hardening. This helps to keep the heating even and reduces the risk of warping. Heat to a bright cherry red again but this time cool it quickly by quenching it in vegetable oil (some people also use brine). Unwrap it and check that it hasn't distorted. Also test it for hardness using a file, it should be glass hard at this stage. If all is well then clean at least one side to a bright finish so that you can see the tempering colours. Now temper it by placing it on a piece of brass sheet (the thicker it is the more evenly it will heat) over a spirit lamp and watch closely for the tempering colours to appear. The colours start with a very pale straw colour which gradually darkens and then goes to a light blue which then darkens. You want to make sure that the process happens evenly over the whole surface and you are aiming for a mid to dark blue. Once you have got that, quench the part in water. You can now polish the part back to bright, or even leave it blue depending on the aesthetic effect you want. For the locating dowels find yourself a sewing needle of the right diameter. Anneal it as above, and cut two pieces, slightly longer than you need. Install in the dowel holes in the spring and rivet in place. Now carefully grind to the correct length. Install the spring in the movement, sit back, and admire your handiwork over a glass of something suitable. Just a thought...
    1 point
  19. Ok I just bought the balance wheel, complete with hairspring, and am looking for the other parts at reasonable prices. Meanwhile, I installed the second dial I got with this movement. Looks good doesn't it?
    1 point
  20. Have you looked in the cat litter tray?
    1 point
  21. I believe that the best way to assemble and fix a movement is to first understand how everything about it works. So I made some animations to help in understanding how the chronograph assembly works. The Seiko 6139 features a column wheel and a vertical clutch. The chronograph second engages and engages with the 4th wheel via a clutch spring. The clutch is controlled by the first and second coupling levers. See how pressing the operating lever rotates the column wheel, which in turn, controls the coupling levers. While the chronograph is running, pressing the flyback lever will have no effect. But when the chrono is stopped, pressing the flyback lever will activate the hammer, which in turn, resets the chronograph second wheel and the minute recorder wheel. I hope these animations were helpful.
    1 point
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