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If the spring isn't the old blue type and appears to be of the new type white metal it can be referred to as a lifetime spring also known as an unbreakable spring, depends on the manufactured label. But as you know all springs can and will break.1 point
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this looks like the ground connection for a battery. merry Christmas. vinn1 point
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Get somebody to look at the watch. Preferably an Auctioneer. Don't recommend Ebay. Would say I've seen worn out basic Walthams sell on bay for the price WileyDave quoted. I made the assumption the watch is working ? If your friend is thinking of selling, a specialist auction would be a better place. If your friend is offered or only reaches $75 to $100. Tell your friend to KEEP IT ! My impression is that people will buy any old rubbish on the bay upto about £70. Then it becomes harder. But what do I know[emoji4] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk1 point
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I did quick look on the bay for similar sold watch, prices vary greatly, overall condition is most important, the case is worn with brassing, dial is cracked, (but still beautiful) and you didn't mention if watch is working, also important in terms of value, add in number of movements mfg. (scarcity). On the good side the movement is beautifully damaskseened and the regulator looks to be pretty unique, Original pricing is on about page 16 in this link https://books.google.com/books?id=8fQ3AAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq="The+Perfected+American+Watch"&hl=en&ei=yxLwTIrtI4OB8gaY4K3DDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result#v=onepage&q&f=false I'm not an expert but in current condition ~$75-$100 USD, that's based on sold similar watches and of course condition. You can search NAWCC website for more info. They won't discuss value on this site, FYI Hope that helps. Dave1 point
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Having seen people repair clocks before I'm always amazed that if this was a clock spring they would be extremely happy. Clock springs can look set at least from a watch point of view and still be very very acceptable. Visually you can't tell by looking at the mainspring and you can't even go by the lack of the S-curve of the modern spring. I've seen blue springs original American factory springs have S-curve's and I've even seen some of the new White Springs look partially set visually you can't tell just by looking at it. Then whose watch is this? In other words if you're doing this for a paying customer you would change the mainspring especially if it's blue. but if this is your personal watch I probably wouldn't worry about it. There is a way to figure out if this is going to be a problem which is you put the watch back together with the spring. depending upon how badly set the spring is and whether it's even a functional spring at all will determine the running time of the watch and the amplitude. The amplitude will really be a problem at the end of 24 hours if you just don't have enough power to run the watch.1 point
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Honestly I can't tell by the "look" if it needs to be replaced. I've tried and failed in the past. The older blued steel springs will appear set simply because they don't have the S turn that new mainsprings have. I usually decide on replacements based on the following: Is the old one broken? Is a replacement available? How long will it take to remove the old one if I reuse it and discover it's got no life left? How long will it take for my supplier to get the new one to me? How much money do I have to spend? Will I have to pay $10 shipping for a $15 mainspring? (Obviously none of this is helpful but at least you know the internet still works)1 point
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There is a website called THE GREAT BRITISH WATCH COMPANY by Colin Andrews. Colin completed both the BHI and WOSTEP courses and is now a professional watch repair technician. His website covers many of the challenges he faced getting through these schools and his employment situation after graduating. The part that is of interest for this topic is his discussion of what he went through learning how to turn watch pivots with a graver and T-rest. All of his articles are very informative but the article on making watch pivots is of particular interest for this discussion. As different people have different backgrounds, budgets, skill ranges, and different ways of attacking a machining problems, the really important issue is having control over the process and producing a correct part. Using a cross slide requires requires more equipment but an understanding of how to adjust, and in some cases repair, the cross slide mechanisms is really needed to get the desired result. The cutters used in a cross slide can be more critical and complex because they are mounted in a fixed position and will not cut properly if the relief and cutter angles are incorrect. This requires additional skills and equipment. Once everything is properly adjusted and set up this process can produce extremely precise and repeatable results. Using a graver requires less equipment to adjust but requires more hand manipulation during the metal removal process. Since the graver angles are adjusted during the cutting process the angles on the cutting tool itself are less critical. The approach to removing metal is very different as you are physically moving a cutting tool a distance that can not really be seen. This is why a shaft is first cut to a taper and the part to be fitted is moved up the taper during the cutting process. If the process was more controllable you would simply turn the shaft to the correct cylindrical diameter and press on the balance wheel. Removing metal with a graver was around centuries before cross slides were invented. Products were made by hand fitting on part into another part. The system worked but problems arose such as slow production and a lack of interchangeability. During the American Civil War Eli Whitney came up with the concept of interchangeable parts for the manufacture of rifles. The cross slide allowed the application of mathematical concepts such as the Cartesian Coordinate System, Trigonometry and Analytic Geometry to be directly applied to the manufacturing process. david1 point
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Hi, Yes I agree caveats first at this stage. I have no experience with these types, but would suggest being very carefull with any application of heat as there are bound to be a few seals. I would be tempted to try the brief application of a small soldering iron where it says 'TW' it may be that there is a seal here that has been really compressed and this might soften it. Othewise the heat may just cause enough expansion to the cup to loosen. These are long shots though. Perhaps you could show us a photo (can you get the back off?) the next long shot might be, if you can access the rear, very carefully apply a small amount of superglue to the tube...hopefully this would run into where the tube and the case meet and bind it enough to permit another go. Lastly, I guess everyone that has had a go was winding it the right way? Best of luck.1 point
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"Hector the Hero" - on solo tenor guitar I've been working on a lovely lament by the Victorian Scottish composer, James Scott-Skinner to commemorate the death of a legendary Scottish soldier, Major General Sir Hector Archibald MacDonald, KCB, DSO (1853-1903), known to everyone as Fighting Mac. MacDonald, the son of a crofter, rose rapidly from the ranks to become a Major General, fighting in campaigns in the Middle and Far East. Jealousy of the fame and popularity of a down-to-earth, lowly-born soldier in the upper class ranks of the army led to rumours of homosexual behaviour in Ceylon - never really clarified. MacDonald was in Paris in 1903, en route back to Ceylon, and shot himself. A tragic end for a gallant man, demonstrating the attitudes of the establishment of the time. The MS of the score is labelled "coronach" - a keening or improvised singing at a death. I've chosen to treat this piece a bit in the style of a pipe lament with no backing chords - just the melody played more or less in slow march time - twice through. In the (written) key of A on the tenor guitar (G voicing, capo'ed on the 2nd fret to get the open strings). I've added some grace notes here and there - and tolled the bell for Hector at the end of the piece. Hector the Hero1 point