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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/09/16 in all areas

  1. I'd like to share a few of my Citizen Divers with you..... First up on the left is what else , but a Citizen "Lefty ". Next is a 150m 51-2273,... I actually have 2 of these . I wear this one , and have a more pristine one put away . I like the high crown guards on these . Third and far right are two identical Aqualand Divers . Both work great and the one with the SS bracelet actually had a newer movement installed by my Amigo from the Seiko Citizen Watch Forum that goes by the user name of "Longbiker" . He is also a resident here in Hawaii . Below on the left is the same Aqualand as above , but with new batteries installed . In the middle is an Eco-Drive model nicknamed "ORCA" . I had been on the lookout for this watch for a while and lost a bid on the first one I saw come up . After a while this one came up and I made sure I got it . Being titanium , this watch is like a feather on the wrist . Last is another Eco-Drive that I picked up at a collectors show here in Honolulu . Like the Aqualands , it has a depth sensor and alarm . I bought 3 watches from the seller so he gave me a discount for this diver and I picked it up for $100 . I later traded this watch to Longbiker for several Seiko Tech manuals . I got 2 Seiko binders , a Seiko Technical Guide and a Seiko Watch Parts Catalogue for 60's and 70's calibers . Also 2 manuals of Seiko Watch Parts Interchangeability List . 1 is dated 1968 , and the other is dated 1972 . These two have proved to be handy references in finding interchangeable parts between calibers .
    2 points
  2. There is a website called THE GREAT BRITISH WATCH COMPANY by Colin Andrews. Colin completed both the BHI and WOSTEP courses and is now a professional watch repair technician. His website covers many of the challenges he faced getting through these schools and his employment situation after graduating. The part that is of interest for this topic is his discussion of what he went through learning how to turn watch pivots with a graver and T-rest. All of his articles are very informative but the article on making watch pivots is of particular interest for this discussion. As different people have different backgrounds, budgets, skill ranges, and different ways of attacking a machining problems, the really important issue is having control over the process and producing a correct part. Using a cross slide requires requires more equipment but an understanding of how to adjust, and in some cases repair, the cross slide mechanisms is really needed to get the desired result. The cutters used in a cross slide can be more critical and complex because they are mounted in a fixed position and will not cut properly if the relief and cutter angles are incorrect. This requires additional skills and equipment. Once everything is properly adjusted and set up this process can produce extremely precise and repeatable results. Using a graver requires less equipment to adjust but requires more hand manipulation during the metal removal process. Since the graver angles are adjusted during the cutting process the angles on the cutting tool itself are less critical. The approach to removing metal is very different as you are physically moving a cutting tool a distance that can not really be seen. This is why a shaft is first cut to a taper and the part to be fitted is moved up the taper during the cutting process. If the process was more controllable you would simply turn the shaft to the correct cylindrical diameter and press on the balance wheel. Removing metal with a graver was around centuries before cross slides were invented. Products were made by hand fitting on part into another part. The system worked but problems arose such as slow production and a lack of interchangeability. During the American Civil War Eli Whitney came up with the concept of interchangeable parts for the manufacture of rifles. The cross slide allowed the application of mathematical concepts such as the Cartesian Coordinate System, Trigonometry and Analytic Geometry to be directly applied to the manufacturing process. david
    2 points
  3. Our great member, Geo offered to help me out recently should a UK supply company not shipping to Finland, Geo stepped up, and has proved his weight in gold, transhipping my order. Thanks G!
    1 point
  4. I went to the library and was looking through the small section of watch books they had on the shelves when I came across a Hamilton Odyssee 2001 from around 1968 - 69 . I immediately thought of the Stanley Kubrick movie , " 2001: A Space Odyssey ", and found out that indeed this watch has a connection to the movie . http://shop.1025vintage.com/products/hamilton-odyssee-2001 http://thewatchspotblog.com/?p=4890 When I saw the watch in the book it grabbed me and I knew I had to have it . I guess luck was on my side , because when i got home and searched for it I found one up for sale on Ebay with a BIN price or make offer . I made an offer that was $225 less then the asking price and forgot about it . Two days later I got a message that the seller agreed to my offer so we made the deal . There are 2 versions of this watch that were made and I got the second version . The dial , hands and bracelet are a bit different . On mine the hands have serrated lines the length of the hand and the buckle matches this design . The case back is stamped with the Fontainebleau logo that Hamilton had a series of in the late 60's and early 70's . I decided to do a service on it and wad fortunate to find the watch featured in " The Watch Spot Blog " where the author was kind enough to pass on the trick on how to get the movement out of the case . That information is in one of the links I've attached . This is an Automatic winding watch that has a Hamilton Cal. 64 movement which is actually an ETA 2472 movement . A very well made movement that lined up the parameters on my timegrapher perfectly . I can say that I am very pleased with the appearance of this watch and that it is very comfortable on the wrist .
    1 point
  5. Exactly. I thought it was a smaller watch too. Joe
    1 point
  6. Nice lathe Roger. See attached an interesting article on gravers. Gravers.pdf
    1 point
  7. That spring still carries its shape, so I think its alright and carry on with it. The coils have good distance between each other, they don't look tired its not out of shape so I think its fine.
    1 point
  8. Honestly I can't tell by the "look" if it needs to be replaced. I've tried and failed in the past. The older blued steel springs will appear set simply because they don't have the S turn that new mainsprings have. I usually decide on replacements based on the following: Is the old one broken? Is a replacement available? How long will it take to remove the old one if I reuse it and discover it's got no life left? How long will it take for my supplier to get the new one to me? How much money do I have to spend? Will I have to pay $10 shipping for a $15 mainspring? (Obviously none of this is helpful but at least you know the internet still works)
    1 point
  9. Scouseget, The best process to use is the one that gives you the most control. if you do your best using touch and feel, then a T-Rest and Graver would be a good choice. If you are better at relating to numbers, then a cross slide will provide a better way to produce your part. It is not a matter of one being correct and the other incorrect as the only thing that really matters is that a correctly dimensioned part is produced. If you are looking for a lathe to make small watch parts take a good look at the Sincere lathe. It is a good quality machine, comes with a cross slide, collet holding tailstock and, is very affordable..
    1 point
  10. There are plenty of suppliers of broaches. Cousins is good also for quality Eternal tools is a good source. I would use a smoothing broach to remove slowly. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/0060-to-200mm-german1 https://www.eternaltools.com/watchmakers-smoothing-broaches-set
    1 point
  11. They sent you the Australian version [emoji6] [emoji23]
    1 point
  12. Your research is correct. I use a cheap version ( aprox. £7) of the Bergeon style tool & it works fine. A fine broach & remove gently as it is really easy to go to far see pic below:
    1 point
  13. No, nothing like Lubeta, it is not a liquid it's a grease. I originally used it (as recommended at the time by ETA) for chronograph parts that come in contact with each other. I have been using it for some time on sliding pinions, cannon pinions etc and not had one watch come back or fail.
    1 point
  14. Usually, when coils touch each other or there is banking, the rate increases. In your case the rate decreases. I think there is a problem with the regulator pins - the hairspring is not centered between them, or even rests on one of the regulator pins - and when the amplitude marginally increases, the equivalent HS length increases, because it will not touch the regulator pin. Also try a demagnetization.
    1 point
  15. Cousins has the screw here (2558) https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/omega-movement-parts and a useful document here https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/214_Omega1010,1011,1012,1020,1021,1022NEWS.pdf
    1 point
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