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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/05/16 in all areas
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On behalf of "Watch Repair Talk" moderators, I would like to extend a warm welcome to all new members. This is a friendly place with plenty of knowledgeable people who have varying degrees of horological expertise, the great thing is they are willing to share that invaluable knowledge and help one another. To help us keep things running smoothly, I would ask all new members to read the forum rules and place their posts in the correct sections.3 points
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I am a 16 year old trying to learn how to repair watches and eventually make my own. I am excited to see the walkthroughs on here!2 points
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Chapter 5... finished article Well its done..the 6119 movement is safe in its new home. Caseback gasket is a tad too big.. I had to poke it back into the groove as I was tightening the caseback. The quality of the crystal is good.. straight on the outside and curved on the inside with no inconsistencies (shown by wavy reflections). The bright green lume is very apparent in these pictures but less so in reality. Only reason I would change it is it doesn't match the hands/bezel dot. Not because of the green-ness. Final pic on my manly wrist! Issues... 1. Crown gasket does not fit. I bought 2 so I'll probably hunt around for another one with thicker section. 2. After-market bezel was a **BLEEP** to get on. I had to use a lot of force to get it on and now that its fitted, its a **BLEEP** to turn. The inner circumference needs to be machined a bit bigger to make it fit but now that its there I won't mess with it as it'll probably pull the crystal retaining bezel off if I try to remove it again! 3. Hands look ok but are flimsy. Summary.. It was a fun project bringing something totally trashed back to life and this was only made possible because of the good parts support for these Seiko divers. This will be a keeper as I don't think I'll find another one at a price I can afford. Hope you enjoyed the trip! Anil2 points
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Our great member, Geo offered to help me out recently should a UK supply company not shipping to Finland, Geo stepped up, and has proved his weight in gold, transhipping my order. Thanks G!1 point
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Okay here is my first, (virginal) walkthrough, I got this 17j Hampden for less than $30, it's not uber rare scarce or anything uncommon, anyway upon arrival, I immediately noticed some rusty hands and lack of winding (AAAARRRGGH), fortunately it was just from cheap crystal, (I think) the seconds hand is almost gone!) Next off they came and things still looked pretty good. I don't like dust shields and read somewhere they are not recommended/necessary on Hampdens anyway. when I got under dial, the cannon pinion and hour wheel were pretty toasty, otherwise it was pretty clean. Next, off comes balance assm and out comes pallet bridge and fork. Just in case, I did try to let down mainspring, but that appeared to be part of problem. Then comes main barrel bridge, winding wheel, third and fourth wheels and bridge, note steel escape wheel and white/clear jewels on pallet fork. Out comes barrel and arbor And just as suspected, mainspring is a goner! Note the serial number inside barrel, matches the rest of watch Dial cleaned up pretty nice, lot's of hairline dirt removed. Still has some nibbles between the 10 and 11, that's what I call character! New spring In goes the new spring, I did this by hand, (too cheap to invest in winder!) Just a pinch more to tighten up arbor and greased. Patiently awaiting their return after cleaning. The cannon and hour wheel were replaced, I got lots of parts, so no issues there. Now with everything tidy, back goes barrel and bridge Third and fourth wheel bridge, plus touching up pivots/jewels with oil as we go. This last part can be a bugger if you don't line everything up, I give it a "soft screw", pardon the expression, but I'd rather check everything before it gets tightened, (learned the hard way on that one) New Cannon Pinion, hour wheel and dial washer on and dial ready for replacement. A few more touches of oil on dial side pivots. ( a bit heavy handed on the barrel, did clean that up a bit) I picked out new hands, pretty fancy scmancy and had to replace second hand too. Now I know I didn't show all that boring stuff with the keyless works, set springs and winding wheels and mainplate cleaning, but it all had to be done, I just wanted to show how relatively simple these movements and others like them are to work on and hopefully get some others to try their hand. One quick vid, she's running like a scalded cat! DSCF0401.AVI1 point
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No worries! If you take apart the pocket watch, you can always put it back together again if you want to. I've hung on to the bits from a Colibri watch that I did the same thing with. You can find suitable dials here for both the 6497 and 6498. Cases, too. 6487 6498 Dials Have Fun!1 point
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if you had a choice which you really want to use is a 6498. Basically identical almost sort of to the 6497 except where the secondhand is in relationship to the stem. So as your familiar the 6497 has the crown of the 12 o'clock position the secondhand at the 6 o'clock position. The 6498 has the crown at the 3 o'clock position and the secondhand at the 6 o'clock position in other words it will go in your wrist watch case and it will look like a wristwatch. so typically the 6498 movement would be found in a hunter pocket watch which typically has a spring lid.1 point
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Welcome to the forum. If you want to take up horology as a profession you need to undertake an apprenticeship, not sure how long you have to serve these days, back in my time 1970’s it was 7 years two of which was served as an improver. It’s all very well saying read loads of books, you can’t learn everything out of books you need hands on experience, get stuck in and get those hands dirty.1 point
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Should not be a problem, but you will have to change dails. It is a great movement for learning about mechanical watches. Here in the Lowlands the school for watchmakers starts with a 6497.1 point
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Your not supposed to separate the pieces. You will either have to replace the part or put it on a staking set and make a few tightening rivets. I suppose epoxy would work too (just a few tiny dabbs). To install the disc you just sort of lay it on and rotate till the lever gets moved into position under the hole and use a dip oiler or something small to move it.1 point
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Hello Richard I'll agree with @dadistic a working pocket watch is your best bet to practice on and there's always plenty of people here willing to answer any questions you have. Mick1 point
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Hello and Greetings! Well, starting with a working movement helps. Even easier with a big one, a 6497 or 6498 pocket watch size is great! There are Chinese versions of these on our favorite auction site that are not very expensive. There was an article on here about beginners tools, but it seems to have disappeared. I used this list - Information About Toolkits as a guide for buying my first tools. Have fun!1 point
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epos originale 3420 A bit sorry but this slim boy will have to go. Too large for me even if just 40,5mm.1 point
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I've been working my way through the various chronograph calibres over the past year and picked up this beautiful Favre Leuba off eBay just a short time back. The movement wasn't named but I figured it was a Valjoux VZH and I haven't had the chance to do a Valjoux service just yet. Turned out to be a Valjoux 71 which is the older bigger brother of the famed Valjoux 72. I couldn't be happier- this one is going to clean up nice I think.1 point
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A couple of weeks ago I came across a Ruhla watch on ebay, never seen one before so I bought is as a curio in good working condition, made in GDR so I suppose if it were a car it would be a Trabant or a Wartburg !. Then I found another listed as '' not working spares or repairs '' £2.99 + postage it arrived a couple of days later. It was fully wound & solid, when I took the back off it was half full of sand ! , the seller being in Torquay it must have been on the beach. The movement is contained between two steel plates and after removing the balance & fork the whole thing comes apart in one go. The date change wheel & setting lever are nylon The seconds hand shaft is floating with a tension spring so needs to be supported when refitting the second hand After reassembly it came back to life with just a couple of clicks ! fully wound running about 40 hours. Thanks for reading. Phil.1 point