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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/24/16 in all areas

  1. I will recieve a Vostok Kommandierskie today Wish me luck!
    2 points
  2. HI all, I would like to start my blog where I would like to post pictures of movements that I am now working on. As mentioned before I am a watch enthusiast who is fascinated by movements for over a decade but it is now when I stopped just wandering through pages of Watch magazines and Youtube videos and actually bought myself some equipment to start really digging into it. To be honest, the first things I bought on eBay were not tools or books but about 20 scrappy movements from all over the world (UK, Ukraine, India). What a nice surprise it was that some of the movements do actually work! So those are now put aside as I want to learn on those broken/not working movements. Obviously I did not finish with just buying the movements so I can look at them so there has been a nice delivery from Cousinsuk.com and at this moment I am awaiting few more parcels from eBay with additional things that I found cheaper or just better to buy there. I do know that this will be a lot about learning so I ordered two books: Watch Repair For Beginners and Watch Repairing As A Hobby. The second book has already come and I must say that it is a great help. It is actually a re-print of a book from 1948 and it is just stunning how up to date the book is. So, some pictures of my tools and movements coming very soon. Take care.
    1 point
  3. Don't know if anyone was watching this on TV this evening. Antiques expert Natasha and chef Aldo Zilli were two of the guests, and visited Jill windmill on Clayton Down in East Sussex. They were very pleased when, in spite of there being little wind, the sails started to turn... ... that's because Muggins here was pushing the sails round (out of camera) with a 20-foot pole! Four hours of filming for about 5 minutes of screened footage...
    1 point
  4. The movement is definitely Swiss. This was a way of getting around importing Swiss watches in America I believe, there are a lot of Swiss movements with codes relevant to the company that produced the movement.
    1 point
  5. Great! I think I might need to add a "boost" option to Watch-O-Scope itself. Like any software-only "amplifier", it doesn't really amplify, but just considers at a tinier range of input voltages to be "full scale".
    1 point
  6. The Windows mic signal processing options do things like echo reduction, and to do that, they probably need to mess with the audio timing.
    1 point
  7. Origins probably in the 60s but production could have continued up to the 70s. The swiss kind of lost the plot in the 70s...competition. was tough with the japs coming on very strong. This led to a lot of cheap swiss movement in poor cases. Vulcain was probably hit by the hard times and sourcing cases from Hong Kong would be one way of lowering costs. Not sure about the import mark NOU but they could have had an arrangement to buy in movements, source a case, put a nice name on the front ...make a quick buck.. I'm not usually a fan of AS movements but these are fairly robust...if a bit chunky! Anilv
    1 point
  8. Hi, with interest I followed your discussion. And I am astonished how complicated circuits you designed. As I understand, the program contains a band filter already. So no sophisticated filtering, in fact not any, in the preamp should be needed. Also many stages are overkill imho. My experience showed that 10...30x amplification after the piezo disc is sufficient. This can be done with a 1-transistor stage, and using the voltage and internal resistor that are supplied by the MIC input, no power supply is needed, too. @wlysenko: you inserted one more OP stage to compensate for wide differing piezo capacitance. You can avoid it and reduce the differences (about 4...30nF/disc) to few % by using a low input capacitor, e.g. 2.2nF. You can include it then in your filter calculations. Added a photo of my setup, microphone has the mentioned 1-transistor PA: Regards, Frank
    1 point
  9. My sight isn't very good these days. The part in the red circle looks like its for the maintaining power, when its between the plates it rests on the fusee wheel. Here's a picture of what the ratchet wheel looks like. If you could get a closer photo I might be able to see better and help more.
    1 point
  10. I'd get yourself a better mic preamp. Something like a model by Behringer with 60dB of gain would suit probably.
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. The microphone for guitar has a rubber pad that should be opposite to the caiman of pressure. You should remove it and leave the "hard" part of plastic against the watch case. Also use the digital filters that are in the program configuration. It should work. Saludos.
    1 point
  13. From the 70s, the dark days of swiss horology. Anil
    1 point
  14. I love it when a story has a happy ending, especially when you need to piece together lots of bits of data from different sources! Cousins database often doesn't know the full application list of parts in their inventory. I have seen this many times, but if you can get to the raw part number then you can often find parts they don't list against any calibre. I think they will add parts to the list if someone asks for it by calibre number and part type if they can then track it and it's in their stock. If you want to buy screws for Omega movements you just search for the screw part number - they never seem to list them in the calibre parts database.
    1 point
  15. I picked up this non-running Hamilton with a Swiss ESA 9158 electronic movement on the bay for $25 . It has a screw down crown , and when it arrived I could see that a bezel was missing . I searched the internet to see if I could find a picture of what the old bezel looked like , with no luck . The rubber watchband was salty , dirty , and twisted into the shape it was stored in . When I opened it up I was presented with a movement that was swimming in oil ,...you could almost pour the oil out . I had to clean my tools and work surface when I got it out . I removed the dial , hands , and dial ring and cleaned them up hoping that the finish on the dial and hands wasn't ruined . I was able to find a complete working movement for $20 . Fortunately, after cleaning up the case , dial , hands , and watchband , everything looked good enough to re-use with no apparent damage done by the oil soaked parts . I reassembled the watch with the donor movement and it was off and running . I checked my stash of parts to see if I happened to have an old bezel that would fit the case . I pulled out a Seiko bezel that I had changed out on a Seiko 6138-0011 UFO / Yachtsman I have and it fit . I used a piece of brass wire of the right diameter to form a bezel spring to fit between the bezel and case , as each part had a slot where a ring would fit . Luckily all the parts fit very well . The bezel fits firmly and turns as it should . The Seiko UFO .... And The Hamilton Electronic...I have since , reset the day and date...
    1 point
  16. Sadly no. I looked at the site selling these, and someone asked there what the output power was, and got the same useless answer. (Someone else asked if it worked with a particular model of microphone, and was told that no, it only works with Windows.) Unfortunately, I think it's extremely unlikely that we're likely to find an off-the-shelf amp that will work, because the amount of gain required is very high.
    1 point
  17. Ah, that explains why the movement has the code NOU for "Louvic, HodaVulcain, Ditisheim & Co."on the balance cock. Swiss movements cased in the USA had various codes representing the manufacturers.
    1 point
  18. W.M.R...W. M. R. WATCH CASE CORP. is an entity registered at NEW YORK county with company number 120695. located at the address 11 W. 42Nd St. New York, New York, 10036. Company is incorporated on June 19, 1959. Current status of the company is inactive - dissolution (jun 24, 1993).
    1 point
  19. Look at the table at the top of this page: http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/citizen-movements-c-28_1177.html It supposedly tells you how to find a Miyota movement when you have the Citizen number, and vice versa.
    1 point
  20. Nice piece of detective work. Thanks for the info. I will have to give that a go and see how to do it for future reference. It's beginning to look like I will just have to keep my fingers crossed for the one for sale.
    1 point
  21. Looking forward to your blog! One recommendation, start with something that works so you know when you are done and if it still works that you are doing it right. Then, try to repair the ones that don't work! Just MHO. Cheers, Bob
    1 point
  22. As promised, here's the reassembly of the watch who's fusee I posted photos of: First, here's the bottom plate with the fusee, centre wheel, lever, escape wheel & 4th wheel in position: and the fusee ratchet paw on the top plate: The plates are joined & pivots located in their holes & pins replaced. (This watch was a non-runner when I got it & the lever had a rather badly bent pivot which I straightened & I'm hoping this was the only problem stopping it running): At this stage it's best to fit the 3rd wheel bridge, solely to protect the 4th wheel pivot which also has it's hole in the bridge: Next fit the barrel: and the barrel bridge: Next the fusee chain needs fitting - the hook end goes in the fusee & the pointy barb end in the notch on the barrel Apologies but it's not possible to photograph the actual chain fitting, but after fitting fit the blued steel barrel ratchet, add some tension (say half a turn of the ratchet) then screw in the ratchet click to hold it in place: Now fit the 3rd wheel & replace the bridge: At this point it's worth winding some chain onto the fusee & check that the lever snaps to & fro with a little movement of it with a cocktail stick...this shows that power is getting through the train. Then the balance wheel can be fitted - the staff has a safety roller & jewel peg like a Swiss lever escapement: Here the balance cock has been fitted & it's ticking nicely Part two will come later when I'm satisfied all is well which will take a few days of windings...I'm not 100% happy with it at the moment as after running for a minute or so it kept losing power to the lever & stopping...having said that, after some fiddling it's running now...it could be that the fusee is not giving maintaining power...if it continues to play up I'll have to strip it down again & investigate....anyway, hope that was interesting!
    1 point
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