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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/19/16 in all areas

  1. If you cant remove the scratch then genuine Omega acrylic crystals cost about £30 from Cousins if they still have the one you need. Search by case number.
    2 points
  2. Available on scribd https://www.scribd.com/doc/305854743/Practical-Watch-Repairing-donalo-de-carle that is additional to the official version.
    1 point
  3. The rub-in video is edited, I will put it out when I get back from holiday
    1 point
  4. This hairspring is easy to detach. Just do it Both balance hole- and cap jewels need to be cleaned to make sure there is another problem. The balance pinion seems ok to me from the picture, if the other one is like this.
    1 point
  5. Hmm i was right , that book looked familiar to me , because i own allready a copy haha.
    1 point
  6. I spent the day literally watching paint dry. I was using black lacquer to fill in the engraving on a pocket watch case to make it stand out. I will send pictures when it is finished. In the mean time I was looking for screwdriver sharpening stone holders on the net. The sticker shock was amazing. So i said to myself, "Self" your only watching paint dry, make your own, you have a sharpening stone and some wood. So I made this from scrap wood while watching paint dry. I'm happy with it & it cost nothing. It is perhaps not as pretty as Bergeon but they have enough money.
    1 point
  7. Hi everyone. I'm just in the middle of an English Fusee Lever Pocket Watch restoration & thought I might share the fusee dismantle so readers unfamiliar with them could see what's on the inside & how they work. They really were an ingenious and elegant solution to early mainsprings varying in their power output depending upon how wound up they were causing variations in timekeeping ability over the overall timepiece. Modern, i.e. 20th Century mainspring steel was so much better quality that these variations eventually became null & fusees became redundant. (Apologies for not great quality photos - I find my iphone is quickest for photos & uploading but have some blurring) First here's the intact fusee, upright & bottom views. There's a blued steel collar with a brass pin through it holding everything together & this pin needs pushing out - occasionally they need a bit of persuasion with some light hammer knocks but I try to avoid hitting anything unless I really have to: Once the pin is removed the collar lifts off so the components can be separated: First lift off the brass fusee cone: Then separate the bottom brass main wheel from the steel wheel containing the two small steel paws (or "clicks") held by click springs. (note - fusee verge watches usually only have one paw/spring). The teeth of the brass ratchet wheel riveted to the underside of the fusee cone engages in the steel paws when it is together, the click springs providing the engaging pressure. This fusee is in pretty good nick (no cleaning has been done)...normally the paws are filled with dried black oily gunk which needs cleaning out (carefully because the paws are very easily dislodged). Occasionally there is wear to paws or ratchet wheel teeth (causing slippage on winding the watch) which can often be sharpened with a file (the ratchet wheel can be removed from the fusee & then re-riveted on which is fairly easy with brass). Once I filed a new paw from some steel (a nail I think!) which was more than fiddly but satisfyingly worked afterwards. Click steel in a ready shaped rod can be bought but only if you can source it. The bottom brass main wheel is fitted with a steel maintaining spring such that the working unit provides maintaining power. As the chain is wound onto the fusee (tightening the mainspring at the same time), the ratchet wheel engages with the paws. The bottom brass mainwheel has teeth in it's edge which engage in a lever paw attached to the watch's mainplate. The fusee is shaped such that as the chain unwinds from it under the mainspring power, it exerts less power when fully wound than when the mainspring is at it's weakest ie almost unwound. At least something like that...I forget the details but there are some nice you-tube videos which explain a whole lot better than my ladybook version. Reassembly is just a simple reversal, not forgetting lubrication. The last photo is just the mainspring in it's barrel - these are very strong when wound. Hope that was fun anyway!
    1 point
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