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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/16 in all areas
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One of my favorite chronographs to work on is the Lemania, here is one I overhauled at home two weeks ago for a friend, the hammer had been 'over adjusted' by a watchmaker in the past resulting in not resetting the heart cams correctly, I enjoy micro mechanics and made a replacement with oversized hammers and contact surfaces to allow proper adjustment to be made. The pic on the rodico is it close to completion, spent a little more time on the finish to allow it to 'blend in' as it was a display back, other pic is the completed movement. Time consuming but was a nice rewarding job to work on.5 points
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Boy i have missed quite a few good ones whilst ive been away Id like to say ive been on exotic holiday but alas just recovering from horrible virus which nearly killed me off Not one to sit on my rear end doing nothing i thought id start back with a good old Omega ( one of many to finished ). Newly finished and back to health ( like me ) 1943 - Omega 17.8 SC Early Waterproof Casing - All original The balance was almost beyond repair but after many hours work she back in business. Next one on my hit list is a 1966 Seamaster Cosmic2 points
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I purchased a Tourneau 7750 a while back on eBay. The watch was a mess. For one thing, the dial was glued to the main plate - missing the dial feet and it has some discoloration. Here's how it started. I finally got around to having the dial restored by International Dial. They didn't have the exact die, but they did find a suitable substitute. While they could have created a die to match the original I didn't want to incur the expense. Some pics of the dirty movement... The watch also had a Rolex crown (I think it's a fake) and the stem was soldered to the crown. You can see it in the following pic: Here it is on reassembly - preparing to attach the hands in my Bergeon movement holder: And the finished product - note I have a new crown on order - so the fake Rolex is still on there for the time being. This watch is a gift for my son.1 point
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This is my Atmos cal 528 story circa ~1960 – its been years that I’ve put my eyes on Atmos clocks looking in its beauty and clean / sharp looking as well as their technical structure. In the country where I live, I’ve never saw any Atmos clock new or pre-owned for sale therefore I decided to buy on Ebay. At that time, I didn’t think that I’ll have to fix it I just want this “furniture” at my saloon. When unpacking the clock at home, I figured out that the chain is broken. I can’t tell if this happened due to shipment or it was originally broken but no matter - it was broken and here is where the adventure starts…(broken chain means winding mechanism is out of order). As watch/clock hobbyist, there was of course only one option – jump into it, ignoring those who claims that even the experienced and professional clockmakers shouldn’t touch Atmos without the proper skills and knowledge. I’ve started to read the available material on the WEB, spending time to understand each and every step. I bought also the repair PDF notes with explanations and dedicated tools like hands remover since without it, you will damage the minute pivot. Repair notes: Hand remover: Also, I couldn’t find a proper screwdriver since for some reason, the standard screwdrivers blades are 0.6mm or 0.8mm while this screws require 0.7mm blade. Important to mention is that without perfect fit, the screws will be damaged and if there something I hate is to see those signs on the screws because of using improper screwdriver (or sometimes due to non-skilled hands). Therefore, I took 0.8mm and resized it to 0.7mm. Also, need to say that this screws are having a large “cap” so once they are tightened, they are very difficult to be removed. One of the screws: Another mission was to get new chain but this was found easily online. It took me about 5 month to complete the study and buy everything. Before I started the work, I did few inspections looking for other potential issues: 1) I manually wind up the spring to the desired tension (according to the spec). I found the clock is running although the amplitude was lower than the spec (spec is 360 – 540 deg). 2) I checked that the bellow is functioning – measuring at room temperature and after refrigerator. It looks that bellow is ok In order to replace the chain, I had to remove the dial, bellow, motor, front plate and the main spring. I didn’t disassemble the balance system as in my inspection, it was looking functioning properly. I disassemble the motor gears and cleaned the holes. I also disassemble the mainspring and cleaned it and oil it. It looks that the clock wasn’t serviced for a long time. There are only few points to lubricate the clock. Most of the friction points must not be lubricated! Then I installed the new chain following the instructions of the required distance between the ratchet and the bellow to allow the optimal torque for the windup process. Then, I’ve put everything back and wind-up the main spring manually to its base level means that from this point on, the bellow will wind-up the mainspring according to the thermal changes and the power that ran-out from the spring. The clock came back to life and I was able to monitor the mainspring winding up properly. This can be done by following a moving red point located on the barrel arbor ratchet winding system. The chain and the red dot: The clock is running ~2 years keeping excellent time after this service however, the amplitude is about 330 and even less, while the spec requirement is 360-540 deg. I’m trying to look for the reason but so far I didn't found. There is still work to do but so far I’m really proud of it. This is just beautiful, I hope you like it:1 point
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Hi I am new to this hobby and just picked up the L&R watch cleaner that I asked advise about. While there the guy gave me what looks like a mini staking set. Not really sure of its use but it's in real nice shape with a micrometer adjustment on the pressure lever. Made by Seitz. Any info on the application for this tool is appreciated. Pictures attatched. Thank you Tom1 point
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Aye laddie, it's guid tae hae ye aboard! I look forward to hearing what you get up to Brian.1 point
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That sounds like you should have a hole end mainspring. Can you post a picture of the barrel? Does it have a slot for a brace? Like here http://www.friendsoforis.com/forum/index.php?/topic/36099-watchmaking-manual-and-automatic-winding/ Having said that, I have seen a brace and hole end barrel with a regular hook end mainspring fitted. S1 point
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Auto oilers take a little practice to get comfortable with them, I only use two, one with 9010 and the other HP1300, if I was to use D5 I'd apply that the old fashioned way with an oiler, I do find it a bit thin tho and it can be a little messy looking if it spreads, I tend to use a Rolex grease MR4 in its place. Be real careful with amounts of oil on your needle, important to be in control of this, you can vary the oil amount by limiting the travel of the needle into the reservoir by adjusting the eccentric screw, also by the speed you do it, slowly will give you lots and fast will give you less, once you get the hang of them they do increase your oiling and servicing speed as you can lubricate numerous oiling points at one go, takes a little practice tho so take your time and begin slowly and carefully. Remember at all times to work cleanly, this is probably the best advice I could give you as your overhaul has your signature on it, be proud of it! Good luck and I hope this helps you a little, let me know how you get on.1 point
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Hi Pip, My take on this: Everything said here is good advise and the fundamental way to do it. Me, this is what I do after the hour hand hand is already pointing at 12 and properly "installed" (day on the brink of moving to the other number, etc, as already explained by everyone)...I check for clearances, etc, you can turn them one full revolution to see if they are perfectly level and with the proper clearance respect to the dial and other stuff that may be present...don't forget that some day-date windows are framed and therefore protrude from the actual dial, or markers might be in the way of the hour hand as it moves. Then I move the hand back to the 12 o'clock. Next, I lightly present the minutes hand on top. Just enough for it to be "steady" on its "perch". Then, gently, I move the minute hand until it is perfectly aligned with the hour hand (both pointing, perfectly to 12 o'clock). Minute hand should not be "binding" or "set" on its pivot otherwise you won't be able to move it without messing something up... it is just "sitting" on top. When everything is lined up perfectly then you press it home...and always check for clearance... not just between hands and/or dial stuff, but making sure you are not too high either on the pivots so the seconds hand will have also clearance when its turn comes to be fitted. For the seconds hand, I usually choose it to point either to 3 or 9 making sure it is right on the marker...It might not be of importance on some watches but some others may tick in such a way that if your seconds hand is not properly aligned they will miss the seconds division mark on the dial....to me it is annoying so I do with every single watch out of peace of mind and obsessive compulsive nature....but that last bit is more for the Psychology forum! Cheer, Bob1 point
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Hi Dan, You can hollow (make a little dome like indentation/hole in) a wood stick (peg) to the right dimensions so that the edges of the stick match the spring diameter. That would be the tool for inserting the novodiac spring...if you don't feel comfortable using two tweezers...which I do. Cheers, Bob1 point
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Sorry AP, I don't use auto oilers. The regular ones (I use Bergeon all right), are all I need for that size and even smaller size movements. Since I observe carefully and under the lens the amount of oil I am taking in the oiler, an automatic one seems to be in my way. Of course, they are supposed to be more consistent but I can't simply get myself to "trust" them....or spend that kind of money... Cheers, Bob PS. It is said that one single drop of oil should be enough for the whole watch!1 point
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I'm glad you are back on your feet Mr.Beat or more officially, Welcome Back! I guess all is well that ends well and that Omega is a good indication! Nice! Cheers, Bob1 point
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OH - Thats not good but I suppose there is something positive in that the vast amount of knowledge you have amassed was mainly gained a longer time ago. They thought I had had a mild stroke as my upper eyelid on the right side of my face is a third closed all the time but it turned out to be Horners Syndrome which is relatively innocuous. Didn't know much about Atmos Clocks George has mentioned them before and after reading the thread from Uzi and googling a bit, they certainly have a good pedigree, the variety in appearance is quite interesting. I can see why Uzi and Brian like them. Cheers, Vic1 point
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While travelling with Swiss I have watched a video in which Breitling only uses acrylic: see 7:23 and other sequences. My understanding is that for production, acrylic is better choice because it does not leave any residue, so is more apt for fast, repetitive work. Unlike acrylic, pegwood is a fibrous material, observe under magnification how indeed there are chances of minuscule particles being left on the movement, but being more flexible, is better suited for uses where the pressure can vary, or the tip shape must be frequently changed, etc. So it think in the end the two stick have two different application, but for general watchmaking, pegwood is better. BTW I found that my BBQ skewers work even better1 point
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I have been reading the Raul Horology blog with interest from the beginning lessons at his watchmaker school . Attached is lesson 1 of assembling a hairspring to a collet and stud . As Marc has pointed out , it is a fiddley endeavor . http://raulhorology.com/2012/10/the-mark-of-a-true-watchmaker-forming-hairsprings-part-1-pinning-flattening-centering-2/1 point
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Well it's here and already working, I mentioned this on other thread, "stay or go" Borel. Now before the size matters debate starts, it actually feels comfy and pretty lightweight, I don't mind it being a bit obtrusive, (we will see about any comments, positive or negative!) Besides, without my reading glasses on, some watches are pretty hard to see. not crazy about strap, I suppose it takes some getting used to. I spared you all the "unboxing" video that some folks seem to think is essential, I think they are pretty boring, JMHO, don't hate me for it. I look forward to many years of service, by the time it needs any work, I should have learned enough about the 4R to tackle it myself. Enjoy....1 point
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If the movement has been restored properly then it should look absolutely in mint condition. This shows its been restored by someone who knows what they are doing.1 point
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While reassembling the movement I took pictures as you saw above, but also a video that was split in 4 parts. The first part is this one. Enjoy.1 point
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Bob is correct if you have a older set and I don't know how to define older in age. The older sets the base pieces are 3 mm and the newer sets are 4 mm. Then everything else in the set as far as I know has always been whatever size it is it's only the base pieces you have to be concerned about.1 point
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Oh thessler, it is missing SIX no, ELEVEN parts on that set! Give it back...as a matter of fact, give me the guys address and the set and I'll tell him a couple of things...THE NERVE, giving away an incomplete set! Hum!!! Ok, I had my joke and now for the real thing....that jeweling set, is worth probably more than the L&R watch cleaner you picked up (considering all the "tools" included and the great shape it is in)...so enjoy! If you need some more "parts" for it, cousinsUK and ofrei have them in stock. Cheers, Bob PS. Check the size of the tools before ordering replacements, since I believe the black Seitz is before they changed to, what was it, 4mm? Please, correct me about this, someone!!1 point
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Szbalogh, if it helps, here is the roller remover stump from my staking set. As you can see it's spring loaded, the spring pulling the conical base of the jaws down into the conical recess of the main housing, closing the jaws. To open the jaws you just press the protruding button at the base of the unit, pushing the jaws up and allowing them to open You insert the balance, release the button allowing the jaws to close, and install the whole lot into the die plate of the staking frame. You can then use whatever stake is most appropriate for the job in hand.1 point
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Thessler, The tool is used to remove and install friction jewels. Mark has a great video on Youtube (Watch Repair Channel) showing how to replace friction jewels with a similar tool. The set you have is a very nice one. david1 point
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This one is for seating friction-fit jewels. That guy just gave it to you? Can i meet him?1 point
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Here is my finished $45.00 K&D staking set all cleaned up & the new glass dome arrived today. All finished. Now back to watch repairing.1 point
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Here is a Levin Staking Set for $79.00 from Uncle Larry's Watch Shop. Check it out. david1 point
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All: This is probably the best reference that I've found for the Inverto tool series. You can get either the hard cover or paperback reprint from lulu.com http://www.lulu.com/shop/archie-perkins/the-watchmakers-staking-tool/hardcover/product-22409846.html I hope this will help someone as much as it did me. Tom1 point
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learning to run a lathe (any size) is slightly easer than learning to play the violin. vinn1 point
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Found this nice little staking tool at a "buy out". Needed a good sprucing up but after some "spit and polish" turned out nice. Received a some amount of abuse in the form of well...I don't know how to put it...it seems one of its owners got carried away with a hammer and ruined a few stakes. Replaced of them, polished up the rest and refinished the wood holder. I believe this was a National. As you can see it's missing the pedestal. My instructor tells me watchmakers often removed it as it was awkward to work with. When I have the time and resources I'll turn a new one.1 point
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You're welcome Don. It's a nice looking tool and I'm glad you fixed it easily.1 point
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Believe it or not, I just got around to fixing this. I didn't have a drift, but I found some brass rod stock at the hardware store. The locking wheel did not want to come out. Someone had tightened its set screw so hard that a burr had formed. I whacked that with a punch a couple of times until I could just get it out. Then I filed the burr down, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled. Everything is smooth as butter now. Thanks again Geo!1 point
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A couple of days ago Mr Postman brought me this a near complete vintage staking set that id bid on on the bay and didnt expect to win. It looked like it had spent the last 20 years in a damp shed every punch had welded itself into the wooden base and were in a little rusty but after 2 days ultrasonic cleaning and polishing are now nice and ready to use. I've had to dry the base out slowly in a very low heat oven and then re-drill every seating hole but for £40 and a bit of elbow grease I'm now the happy owner of something I didn't own and will stop me bugging the local professional watch repairer for the use of his which I'vs always been very grateful to him for.1 point
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Very interesting site the lathes site thanks for the link, Wayne1 point
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Every 6ish month? That sound like a long time? I replace my oils almost once a week. And as i doesn't service that many it usually new oil in every time. I add a drop to the cup and my 2 ml 9010 have lasted 2 years and more. I have shared and sold some of my oils and grease to others that wanted to start working with watches. Did a little kit out of oils and greases and used old bottles and syringes.1 point
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with the quality of that printing, i'm going to go with replica! I have quite a few of these collected over the years and they are always useful. I like to keep them in various states of sharpness. E.G. I have one that I have sharpened almost to razor sharpness with a very thin edge - very useful for opening gold case snap-on backs. I have another which I have made extremely dull which is better for thicker steel snap-on backs. I have another I use for taking off watch straps. And another I use for cutting slices of apple when I need too1 point
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Well it is on its way, a refurbished L&R Master all rewired new bearings and ready to clean. I hope I get good service out of it for a number of years to come.1 point
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Probably in bed... :D From the style, it looks like a typical pocket watch from the 1860s or 1880s or thereabouts, though key winding continued into the early years of the 20th century. The front glass hinges open so that the the hands can be set by the key - note the square pinion in the middle of the hands - and the movement is obviously key wound through the dust cover. Do you have a key for it? One key should do both winding and hand setting. The case is Swiss silver - from the "0.936" mark on the inner side - but I can't date it (UK silver has datable hallmarks). The movement is very typical of its period - I had a J.G. Graves English Lever movement that looked almost identical to yours - but I've no idea as to make. There were many movement manufacturers whose movements were used in signed and unsigned watches at that time. The balance looks nice - is it a good runner?1 point