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Thanks for the useful replies....that link is very good, Don. Andy, this happened before I got my staking set, and no hammers were involved...I was using tweezers,but must have been a bit over enthusiastic...still, never mind, it's all part of the learning curve...must try your method of putting the bridge back in place. I've got several more old scrappers to practice on.....2 points
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Anyone seen or used one of these before? DSC02524.JPG by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr DSC02523.JPG by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr DSC02516.JPG by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Spotted it on eBay a while ago, and like the curious cat, i was intrigued, so purchased it, as I thought, why not, it sounded like it could help diagnosing movements that stop in certain positions. This holds the movement, and has two axis, allowing the movement to be held, and then viewed in many positions. Not used it to actually work on a movement yet, so we'll see.1 point
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It was gifted to me by a good friend of mine, its a Emco Unimat PC Lathe, needs tidying/restoring, so may do a guide on restoration on this like I did with my Elma cleaner. Onto the photos. Should clean up nicely by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Toe dipper into Lathing by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr WIP Lathe by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Already started looking for accessories for it1 point
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I have limited work space at home, so I decided to design and make a small watchmaker worktop with folding side panels so the height can be increased when required. Here is my watchmaker prototype worktop and already I have an idea to improve it. The work top started out with a 62cm x 42cm offcut of 18mm mdf. To one side, using a vinyl spray adhesive, I stuck a piece of 5 ply drawing board cover of the self-seal type. I then used hockey stick profile moulding to bead around the edges. The beading was hidden-nailed and glued in place, then three coats of varnish applied. Three coats of varnish was also applied to the underside to seal the mdf. Photo 1. I also made 2 hinged side leaves, 42 cm x suitable height.Like the top, this was beaded all round but with a rounded profile moulding.Then I applied three coats of varnish. Photo 2. A card template was used to decide on the arm rest positions for the worktop. Photo 3. I then removed the top section of the hockey stick beading. Photos 4 and 5. Aluminium angle was used to form a front edge for the arm rest positions, these were coutersunk screwed into place. The position of the arm rest mounting holes were decided, marked out drilled. Photos 6 and 7. To attach the leaves to the top I used 4x 90 degree locking hinges. I removed the locking mechanism for the rear hinges. To attach the hinges I marked out suitable bolt hole positions, then drilled out the mdf to accomodate flush screw-in bolt inserts. The inserts, together with bolts, are better than using ordinary wood screws. Photo 8. For the arm rests I salvaged some leather from an old sofa someone had disposed of. Using the carboard template, I marked out on a piece of 18 gauge aluminium sheet the outline of each arm rest shape and corresponding mounting bolt hole positions. Two of these were made for each side together with the same shape in hardboard for gluing the leather to. The hardboard was then sandwiched between the aluminium profiles and "G" clamped together. Holes corresponding with the worktop bolt holes were then drilled through. This was replicated for each arm rest. For each arm rest, one aluminium plate was used as a base plate. The other I drilled out, countersunk, and fitted with 4 x M5 brass rivet nuts with the nut part to the uppermost of the plate. Two edges of each plate were reduced in size to accomodate the aluminium angle on the worktop. I also drilled out the plates and hardboard for 4mm x 12mm pop rivets as can be seen in the image. 30mm firm foam was then glued to the top of each arm rest top plate covering the rivet nuts. The hardboard profiles were then glued to the the other side whilst aligning the mounting and pop rivet holes. The leather was formed and sewn into shape using the card template for each arm rest, allowing for the depth of the foam and for gluing to the underside of the hardboard. The aluminium base plates were then pop riveted into place to aid clamping the top plate, hardboard, leather and base plate together, as can be seen in the arm rest. Photos 11,12 and 13. The finished watchmaker work top in lowered and raised positions. The rest of the photos. The height of the leaves was determined by the existing bench or table top height.1 point
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You are right gents watches were a lot smaller then today's monsters. The things that people have on there wrists are ugly and wouldn't look out of place around their necks.1 point
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Replacing the cannon pinon I never used a Staking set. I would remove the minute wheel, place the cannon pinon over the center wheel turn my tweezers over and use the the flat side at the very top and press down. Job done.1 point
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Mostly for balance staff replacement, since old pocket watches have ususally broken pinions. But for a simple service of a helathy watch, its not necessary. Although, it could e used fot fitting hands and canon pinion for example. I neither have the tool, but have some balances for staff replacement. FIrst i will try to make it with custom made stakes and anvil.1 point
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I'm not a fan of modern Rolex, but the early ones, especially bubble backs, are magnificent. Unlike a lot of folk, I quite like a watch that has been engraved. There is something nice about knowing it has been such a special part of someone's life. I would love to own this particular watch. Joe, the seller has done their best to let you see the workings of the watch without removing the auto-wind mechanism. It looks in good condition to me, with no chewed screws. Would I buy it...........you bet I would!1 point
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You're right, it's a gorgeous watch. But the seller doesn't include any pictures of the movement, nor do they give any information on size. For three thousands bucks, a picture of the movement is an absolute must. JC1 point
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an associated skill with "compound lathes" is "tool grinding" or buying carbide tool bits. that lathe is very good workingwith brass and aluminum. good luck and think about a milling machine, Vinn1 point
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These lathes are fine for clock work big enough to take Longcase clock parts. I think it might be a unimat 4. I know there are loads of attachments fir the unimat 3 which I had, you will need to check to see if they are compatible. No good for watch work.1 point
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Very common bobm12 in the older type of watch. If you have a cleaning machine the lot would go into the basket.1 point
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