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In my opinion, these are the deadliest case openers ever made. I made the mistake of buying one when I started this adventure, looks pretty, but has terrible faults! Even adjusted correctly, the slightest deviation from a perfect level of poise will cause one of the teeth to jump and possibly gouge a caseback. Not only do you have to maintain equal left/right force, you also have to counteract the natural rolling force that will be induced by any predominant handed person. You need extremely coordinated left/right hand touch/feedback/luck to use these without causing damage. Unless I'm using this I use one of these. The natural deviation with these will be along the radial axis of the force, thus allowing the teeth to tilt radially IN the slot, not the in transverse axis as with the other one which will LIFT the teeth from the slots. As a person who has used tools ranging from torque wrenches that took two strong men to use, to the finest watchmakers screwdrivers, I consider these to be the worst designed caseback wrenches ever invented. Once again, my opinion. Cheers Jim

I just found one hidden away that i did, i really must finish the set but here's the 1.20mm. All stainless steel , 3mm grub retainer screw for holding blade in tight, and the knurled head is interchangable with others that i have lying around somewhere. Simple but effective :) I have drawings and plans for so many things but i rarely get time to make them currently, but since i found it i figured id share :)

As to the accompanying gauges with your set. Maybe they are intended to measure the depth/length of gouges introduced by this tool. <joke>

A very nice pickup from the bay. First, I'd suggest the caseback doesn't fit properly due to a huge build-up of CRUD. Second, the movement has so much Omega DNA that it's easy to understand that the two companies were onece related, and are again under the Swatch umbrella. The movement will also have accumulated years of moisture, dust (grit) and various other bits of crud that means it will need a good strip to bare bones, clean, assemble and test/regulate. If you have the skills, go for it. If you don't find a trusty local watchmaker (not the guy in the booth at the mall) and get it serviced This lovely Tissot bumper movement and its comely dial need to be made beautiful again. Cheers Jim

Maybe a picture effect, but it's flush with case all around. It did not snap, it went in place slowly.

Guess what I tried to do today Yes indeed, trying to solder on the tube. Well, it worked, more or less. The tube is fixed on the hand now but not 100% straight. But I might get away with it. If not I just start over. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's called a Yoke . But it's not funny :(

Your best chance is to fund a donor movement for little money and swap the part...

Closed! The dies I made are too crude to be shown here, but worked. It's incredible how much work can stem from a battery change. My wife is very happy to be able to wear again her CK.

Have received email from Gucci with the setting instructions for your watch see below. S22C-115112417390.pdf

I have an idea Steven, but may be well off the mark. The part at the top may well be a third pin for locating in the case back. This would give three pint contact which is way better than only the two as Jim says. (1) Slacken the knurled nut, and slide the part with the pin off the plate. (2) There appears to be a small notch machined out of the round bar in between the adjustable pin set. See if this will slide into the narrower slot in the plate that you have just removed the single pin from. If it does slide the two parts together. (3) Replace the single pin onto the slotted plate and you should have a three pin wrench that you can adjust to fit the slots on a case back. (4) Once all three are adjusted and tightened securely in place you should be able to remove and fit the case back with less fear of it slipping and chewing up the back (5) I MIGHT BE TALKING THE BIGGEST LOAD OF **BLEEP**, BUT IT'S WORTH CHECKING OUT. :)

BTW, CRUD is my acronym for C = crap R = rubbish U = unspeakable body residue D = debris

Please, no locktite Kees! It will wreak any sensitive part with the fumes (dial, hands, etc) The watch needs servicing and hopefully the back will have to be pressed in (you need a press). Or it is damaged either itself or the case where it should fit...I don't have a solution for that, sorry. I love Tissots an at some point someone mentioned they were related to the Omegas...I don't know about that part but again, I'm very partial to them and if I don't have the expertise I'd rather send it to a professional. A good movement to practice, learn and/or try your hand at, is an ETA 6498 or its 6497 version (mostly the Unitas 6498 found in pocket watches), They have documentation, parts and most everyone can give you pointers or whole tutorials on how to do stuff with them. The lack the automatic complication so you are dealing with a big and pure mechanism...it is ideal. And did I mention that whatever fails can be easily sourced and replaced? Cases, straps, everything is available for them. Check this out: Rebuild movement from a non runner pocket watch and "enhanced" with new blue screws (case and strap sourced from ebay) Face and hands also sourced from ebay and others. So there you have it, the perfect learning movement and a joy to wear! Cheers, Bob

Not strictly a walk through but just a few notes & pics on my latest rebuild, this being a Smiths Streamline, C60 calibre with date from 1966. As received non running minus the knackered strap & badly scratched crystal: Note the the damage to the lugs, probably caused by a poorly fitting metal strap some time in its life. Just something we will have to live with. Out of the case: Under the dial: & turn it over: The mucky mainspring: Cleaning, oiling & re-assembly was fairly straightforward although the pivots proved a bit of a pain to line up and the cap jewels were not the easiest, but all went well in the end. The dial was in particularly good nick, after the Rodico + spit & cotton bud treatment. With a new strap and crystal this is what we get: Keeping time within +/- 5 seconds a day, a low 206 degrees amplitude (original mainspring) & amazingly no beat error. Probably the best movement to come out of Smiths Anglo Celtic Factory at Ystradgynlais (the quality stuff being built at Cheltenham), quite sophisticated in design & general build quality, unfortunately let down by a lack of jewels, but in their defence they were trying to produce an Everyman watch at a reasonable price.

The boss Mark speaks highly of David Bill, although I have no personal experience of his work. http://www.davidbill.co.uk/

Did you consider buying a replacement hand? Try an ebay search for "valjoux 22 aiguille", and make sure you search for EU or worldwide. There is a French seller who has a selection... It's always worth trying French and German names when googling or ebaying for parts... S

This could be more than tricky Peter, capillary action will probably track solder up inside the tube. Ideally it should be riveted in place, but you would need a perfectly fitting collet to hold the tube while riveting the hand in place with the correct set of punches.

I find I get a great buzz from wearing watches I've rescued...hope you do too! Nice work.