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Now that the jars are filled with the right stuff, I turned my attention to the jar seals. When I got them there were one and some bits cork gaskets, and as they help prevent evaporation of liquid more expensive than petrol, I decided to make some new ones. I got a sheet of nitrile bonded cork gasket material from the car parts place, measured everything up and started. Not having a CNC controlled laser machine, I used an old cutter left over from installing some downlights. The blade was sharpened, set to the correct radius and off we went. The results are rather pleasing and now all three jars will prevent the angels getting their share of my cleaning fluids.

Lots of dive watches and USSR era Sekondas use that locking ring method. Less chance of chewing up a gasket when closing it. The gasket measurements are taken from the case. Locate channel it sits in and using some digital calipers measure the inner and outer diameter plus the depth of the channel. I think it looks like you need a flat gasket. See here for size availability. http://www.watch-batteries.com/Gaskets/Flat.htm This info was from my own amateur experience at finding a gasket for my dive watch and Sekonda. Other actual watch makers will correct any mistakes I may have made.

Hey all, Here is my first Service Walkthrough for servicing the Favre-Leuba 253 movement. I found it easier to do this in a word processor and save it as a PDF rather than trying to make it into a giant post. I hope that's ok. I welcome any and all constructive criticism of the document. FL_253_Service.pdf

I recently obtained this Harper watch (see pic). It has a 17j A. Schild 1187 movement which had a broken mainspring and needed a good cleaning (lot's of oil, whew!). I cleaned it and after some mishaps--including losing a cap jewel which I was able to rectify thanks to the generosity of a fellow Watch Repair Talk(er)--was able to replace the mainspring and get the watch running. It's an inexpensive watch (I bought it for $3) but I was very heartened that I could get it running. Id's say it dates from the 50s - 60s? I have never encountered a watch with kind of back this one has. It has two pieces: a back plate and a screw ring (name?). Underneath the back plate was a gasket that had completely deteriorated over the decades. Now my challenge is to find a replacement. Not sure what it is I'm looking for. Does this kind of back have a special name and how would one specify the size of the gasket? From the size of the movement or the case? You'll have to click on the image to see all of it. Please excuse the clumsy image composition. Still learning how to use Gimp 2.

Hello fellas, I am looking for the original crown for this intersting piece. Or if possible one that will match finishes....any help as to where to find one?? Aslo...any info on this movement?

Yeah - I managed to find a pair of trousers from a midget action man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Before you start tearing down your expensive ETA 7750, may I suggest you buy an Asian 7750 for practising on first hand. You will thank me later.

I like the look of the previous pic. I feel the substitutes look better.

I do battery replacements on these monocoque Ebels regularly. As far as I'm aware all movement parts are totally restricted, hence why you're not being allowed to take it apart. The watch clearly took in moisture/water that has damaged the split stem, forcing it to come out as one piece, this action of it being forced out without the release lever being depressed probably means that the keyless work is damaged and it's not engaging again because of this. So it looks like the movement is damaged. I don't think you're missing a screw, other than one of the bracelet securing screws on the back of the case? It looks like it may, possibly be needing to go back to Ebel. (which will be expensive to say the least, they'll quote for full service, stem and crown, and a new dial.)

Zenith was all my Brisbane supplier had in stock at the time I needed it. It seems to work OK but I haven't had the chance to compare it to L&R. Both are US made products. See http://www.zenithsolutions.net/ Noted, I think I'l get a little CO2 extinguisher to hang beside my fire blanket. Doh! to quote Homer Simpson. I had it in my head that two cleans and one rinse was required, then I read my instruction leaflet. I have rectified the situation so it now stands at 1 x jar of L&R Cleaner, 2 x jars Zenith rinse. See previous confession ;) Thanks for all of the advice gents, I'll post up some results from my next job (a Seiko 6309A).

Finally found a case for the ETA 7750. Decided to go with Otto Frei. Very happy with it.

Immersing myself in a Sadler's Red IPA right now.

These are great,bringing back to life aged pieces I love it

Possibly the old varnish. If the print is under the varnish and sound this method should work but great care needs to be taken. I have found many watches to have the print on top of the varnish and tends to come off far to easily. Got this old Smiths Astral in the other week: Although the pic doesn't show it too well the dial was in a right state with varnish lifting, discolouration, water damage to edge etc. Took the plunge & dipped it in HG silver fast shine (Goddards silver dip is the same I believe). Most of the minute markers had lifted with the flaking varnish so the rest were removed. When dry sprayed with acrylic varnish. The result: