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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/14 in all areas

  1. Well, we've mentioned this before on the forum. I'll repeat my own view that two things will happen: (1) The market for s/h "spares or repair" watches will blossom (2) non-Swatch Swiss watch movement firms, and Asian firms, will also blossom.
    3 points
  2. A cracking day, so pulled out the old Norton for a change from working on the kitchen!
    2 points
  3. It's the watch owners who will ultimately be screwed as 'choice' is removed from the equation when deciding on who to send their repairs to. The watch houses will be able to charge whatever they damn well like and the customer can take it or leave it. Watch repairers on the other hand will always have work to do, so will not lose out much. I feel for the watch owners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. I have a feeling that it is going to be special - perhaps guided tours with free watch repairing advice and an inspirational video of the dismantling of a genuine clockwork watch, (Accutron 11ANACB would be outstanding) and on departure a free bottle of Moebius oil - ok it would have to be £50.00 a head but oddly enough a lot of us would probably pay ! Ps I used really BIG tiles and got the floor done quite quickly for me - mainly because the adhesive was the flexible fast drying stuff. Don't forget when you knack up a tile you throw it on the floor swear loudly and continuously and stamp your feet, then turn round and find your wife just about rolling on the floor laughing at you - that's the problem with a 62 year old body with a 10 year old brain.
    2 points
  5. Seiko 7S26A Complete Service Background I have a good friend, a brother in Christ Jesus, who I've known for many years. He knows I've embarked on retraining myself for a new career in Watchmaking, and seen my first two restored watches. He told me that his old faithful Seiko 5, which he's worn everyday for 12 years, has recently had issues. Occasionally it will advance rapidly in time (up to an hour in a few seconds) and then just keep ticking away normally. I told him I'd be happy to take a look at it, and put it on my ACEtimer Timegrapher. The pattern on the screen looked like a B-52 drop in Nam (stupid me forgot to take a photo), and I told him that his watch definitely needed an inspection and service. So started my research on what the problem might be. After reading a "Practical Watchmaking", and the many forums that I've read, I was pretty sure it was the Pallet Fork ... either very dirty or damaged stones, or a broken/damaged fork pivot. So onward to the service... Disassembly One unusual aspect of this watch is the crown ... or lack there of, more to the point. I suppose since this is an automatic watch, they thought it didn't need to be wound. This watch also has a display back, so extra special care not to mark any of the plates, or damage screw heads! The first issue you'll face when working on a 7S26A Movement, is how to get the stem out! It isn't obvious at all, and there is a little trick. The crown needs to be pushed all the way in to expose the push plate (it is hidden in the other crown positions). I took this photo once the movement was out to best illustrate where to push. Remove the Hands, Dial and Oscillating Weight (2.0mm Screwdriver). Gently lever up one end of the circlip and carefully work your way around. You then should be able to raise the circlip up the length of the shaft without it pinging off. Remove the Day Wheel and the four screws holding the Date Dial Guard. (Use a 1.40mm Screwdriver, and this driver is good of all the screws from now on; bar one.) NOTE ORANGE ARROW: Seiko Special Tool needed for the 0.98mm Philipshead Screw (Part Number: S-921) I had to journey down to my nearest Seiko Distributor and grab one ... cost was AU$24.00 Here's a closer look at the troublesome screw. Remove Date Jumper, and note that the Date Drivewheel lips over the top of the plate. Remove all the motion work, and pull the Cannon Pinion Remove the tension from the Mainspring. Remove the Ratchet Wheel and the Second Reduction Wheel and Pinion. (remember the Reduction Wheel has a reverse thread) Unscrew the Balance Cock and remove the Balance. Also unscrew the Pellet Cock and remove the Pellet Fork. BINGO! Found the problem with my friends watch. The top pivot on the fork is broken. Easy fix with a replacement fork :) Remove the Barrel/Train Wheel Bridge Remove the Click, then the Barrel. Remove the Fourth Wheel, Third Wheel and Escapement. Unscrew the Centre Wheel Bridge and remove the Centre Wheel Now to the Keyless Work. Remove the Setting Lever Spring Remove the Yoke and the Setting Lever Pull the Stem out, and the Clutch and Intermediate Wheel will fall away. Lastly, pull the black plastic location ring off. ... and now it's bath time!!! I hope this has been of help to you guys. I'll post the Assembly steps in this thread tomorrow morning.
    1 point
  6. Richo "Dynamic Wide 9" Service New watch to practice on came in the mail today. It was a cheapie on Fleabay; but has a Day/Date Complication, with a pusher advance for the date, that I thought would be a nice advancement in my training. There was two other components in servicing this watch I need practice on: springs and incablocs ... and this movement has them in spades! And to stretch myself further I choose this movement because it uses a copy of the Seiko DiaShock System, this time with a more complicated three prong keeper; as apposed to the dual prong keeper in the 7S26A Movement I completed previously. I couldn't find any service information on the movement, so I just went with skills the Lord has given me, experience from the past 3 movements and reference photos. First Dial and Hands are removed Remove the Date Ring, which is only held by spring tension on the Day Jumper. Next remove the Date Dial Guard Remove the Date Ring, and the Calendar Works ... Note the spring for the Day Jumper, and one also for the Date Jumper. Continuing, remove the Date Drive Wheel (which is in two parts) , The Motion Works, and the Cannon Pinion. Remove the Setting Lever Spring, and the cover for the Date Advancement Pusher Works VERY carefully remove tension from the Date Advancement Spring, it is under a lot of load and is "S" shaped when removed. Next remove the Date Advancement Works. Unload tension on the Yoke Spring, and remove the Yoke and Setting Lever. The Clutch Wheel and Winding Pinion will now fall out once the Stem is removed. Release the spring tension from the movement Remove the Balance Remove the Pallet Fork Cock, and Fork. Remove the Ratchet Wheel, Crown Wheel, and Click. Note the orientation of the Click Spring and remove. Remove the Train Wheel Bridge Remove the Fourth Wheel, Third Wheel and Escape Wheel. Sorry I forgot to get this picture, I got a little engrossed in my work ^_^ But there is nothing special about the layout, just your standard 17J configuration. Remove the Barrel. Remove the Centre Wheel Bridge. And lastly remove the Centre Wheel Time to clean the parts ... All the parts clean and ready for reassembly. Reassembly is just a complete reverse of the previous procedure. The only difference is the incablocs, as they are a DiaShock System, and the Keepers are VERY small indeed. As shown the 7S26A Walkthrough, use a plastic covered Paperclip as a special tool to hold the Keeper in place while your remove and install. I hope this is a help to others, and I'll continue to post up the movements that I work on, so as to create a library of walkthroughs for many movements, and as a catalog of my self-training and advancement in this wonderful trade.
    1 point
  7. In this months bhi journal (August) a letter has been published by myself "has the industry hit a destruct button" The BHI CEO Dudley Giles also relied. To summarise his reply. The BHI is not a trade association but the BHI board of directors is keenly aware that the membership wishes to know where they stand. The conclusion is that the BHI feels honour bound to move in step with "our european colleagues" He also reminds members of the failed attempt by CEAHR several years ago to address the imposition of anti-competitive & restrictive practices. I take it from this that nothing will happen and the only change will be is in time any future customers will gradually move away from Swiss watches as the bad news spreads.
    1 point
  8. It's a lovely watch but I somehow doubt that it was an trench watch from WW1. If I'm wrong, I stand corrected, but I'm very sceptical about many watches of this type being military watches - unless you have actual provenance. You're welcome to read what I've written on my watch web site at: http://www.willswatchpages.com/trench-watches.html - and, of course, you're welcome to disagree with me totally! :D
    1 point
  9. Great idea Lawson. I'm sure it will be very helpful for reference regarding movement configurations and problems encountered.
    1 point
  10. Sometimes you would need to remove the inca setting which is just push fit but be careful it's easy to crush it. It is best to use a jewelling tool for this job. Some inca settings sit proud in the movement and so allows removal and fitting of the spring. But many are recessed enough so the spring does not fall out when released and this is where the setting removal is needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. Thank you for the suggestion Mark, I'm always looking for good books and although I have the first one, I didn't know about the second one. I was able to locate it here.
    1 point
  12. Been there, done that, only I was the guy on the back. This was when Yamaha introduced the RD250LC, my mate had one of the first in the country and it was a most amusing machine. He and another mate (who had a Honda CX500) used to race each other everywhere. On one occasion I was on the back of the LC (I didn't have my bike licence then) and we had managed to get about half a mile ahead of the CX by the time we got back to my parents house and were slowing to a stop so that I could get off and open the gate. As we were just rolling to stop I had let go of the grab rail and was preparing to dismount when Dave on the CX caught us up, but rather than stop he decided to do a low pass at full chat. Colin was having none of that so responded by hitting the power band and dumping the clutch in 2nd (we were still rolling). The front wheel came up and I just rolled backwards until my feet were under his armpits. Realization dawned and Colin slammed on the breaks bringing the front back down to Earth with a crunch and causing me to roll forwards again with the front of my helmet colliding with the back of his with an almighty whack. In the true spirit of teenage "lads" the world over the episode ended with all three of us in hysterical laughter and a new game developed which involved the rider of whichever bike I was on the back of doing his level best to try and unseat me at every opportunity. In learnt to pillion like a limpit.
    1 point
  13. I had a similar experience with my daughter. I usually ride my sport bikes solo, but this day Elaine was on the back of my 955 Daytona and I pulled away from a junction with a wee bit too much throttle and pair of legs appeared level with my chest. Realising what was happening, and before she shot off the back I hit the brakes, next thing she head-buts me in the back of the head. It was slow and steady after that!
    1 point
  14. I also do it by hand. I found it to be cheaper and more...exciting! The joy of watching it jumping all over the place is contagious, makes you want to do the same :) No seriously, I like to do it by hand. Somehow I can feel the spring tension and have an idea of how good the spring still is. Maybe this is suggestive but it works for me. I use surgical gloves for all watch handling, including this task.
    1 point
  15. I've recently purchased a set of winders but haven't had a chance to use them yet. Up to now any springs that I have done have been wound by hand. It's not that difficult, but be careful when removing it from the barrel.
    1 point
  16. Excellent - I have watches in this category so it's a nice guide.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. You might find some of the information here helpful. http://www.witschi.com/download/Witschi%20Training%20Course.pdf
    1 point
  19. I finally got around to do this spring. In brief, the lower jewel was lost at some point and it was replaced with one from another older plate (the ones with the 3 diashock lobes). To make the story short, those jewels are interchangeable (older and newer) as long as you have the right spring which I didn't lose. The method that works the best was Mark's with the 2 tweezers. Not for lack of tweezers but out of laziness, I used 2 #3 tweezers I got as a promotion (free!). I also grabbed the bag where those tweezers came in -- along with other goodies (big sealable bag) -- and cut the bottom off. I used the bag as a parts catcher...and I didn't even need to catch a part! Knowledge gained from the above: The two tweezers system works easily and perfectly! Thank you Mark, awesome trick! Soon I'll make another watch happy!
    1 point
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