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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/05/14 in all areas

  1. Just had a look and it's a very interesting collection of information and very well presented, well done that man. One tip I was given years ago was to always handle a watch (pocket or wrist) over something soft, such as a bed or a sofa, or close to a work surface as if dropped it will come to no harm, unlike if it falls 6 ft.from a standing position onto a concrete floor. Should you ever get tired of your Bunns let me know.
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  2. OK - I've spent most of the day on the new site and put in a ton of information - mostly aimed at the watch newbie or novice. The "Contact" - http://www.willswatchpages.com/contact.html - page has space for links to watch repairers. I've taken the liberty of starting with Mark's website - anyone else want to be advertised for free?
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  3. That's the fella, I suspect that that is the bit that shouldn't turn so freely. If you take the barrel cover plate off then with any luck you will find that the wheel and pinion is just riveted in place. If that is the case then a light tap to tighten the rivet just a fraction is all that is needed. A staking set would help here and by the look of it a conical stake may be the best option to open out the top of the rivet slightly.
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  4. Have a look at the balance spring and see how close it comes to the balance cock. When the watch is sitting face up or flat on its back the balance spring will sag slightly towards the balance cock. If the spring isn't true in the flat and parallel to the balance, or if the collet isn't properly seated, then when the watch is face up the hair spring can come into contact with the cock, effectively shortening it and causing the rate to increase.
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  5. Ahh... I should have had a look at the link before posting. What you have there is not a centre wheel arbor, it's a static centre post fixed to the main plate. The set up I described in my initial reply describes the "typical" transmission of drive through to the hands. On your set up the centre wheel arbor doesn't come through the main plate at all and the centre wheel isn't even in the centre!! It 's been offset to make room for the indirectly driven seconds hand. This set up still requires some form of friction clutch between the motion works and the going train or it would not be possible to adjust the hands, and some form of off set or split cannon pinion is used other than the pinion that the minute hand sits on. I had a look at the parts sheet for this calibre (download from Cousins) to see if I could spot where it is but it's not obvious. A closer look at the pics on the Metatechnical Cabinet page though suggests that the mainspring barrel may be the culprit. If you look at it closely you can see the biggest diameter of the barrel (the "great wheel" or the "first wheel") drives the offset centre wheel (or "second wheel") pinion in the 10 o'clock position. However, there is another wheel (the second wheel sits in between this and the great wheel) with a pinion on top of and coaxial to the barrel. The wheel meshes with the intermediate wheel in the keyless works, but also looks like it should mesh with the minute hand pinion sitting in the deeper recess around the centre post. The pinion meshes with the hour wheel. My best guess is that the friction clutch is in this extra wheel and pinion set up on top of the barrel. The good news is that if it can't be adjusted pretty much all of the necessary parts are in stock at Cousins. The bad news is that the minute hand pinion that you tightened needs to be a free turning fit on the centre post so you will need to open it up again. My apologies if my initial response lead you astray.
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  6. Finished all the plumbing and prep in the bathroom. Finally I can start tiling. Come on Geo - who's going to finish first :D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  7. +1 for Geo's answer. I had this problem on a pocket watch. I held the hands down at the pivot point by gently pressing laterally with a pair of tweezers - to stop them potentially flying off - and then gently pulled the minute hand straighter with another pair of tweezers. Problem solved.
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  8. Hi David, take the movement out of the case and make sure that the hands are parallel with the watch face and have clearance between one another. You can do this by gently prying the offending hand with a piece of peg wood or a matchstick. Ensure that you place a piece of polythene over the dial to protect it.
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  9. Thanks Marc, surely if the Canon pinion is crimped to the fixed centre wheel arbor, would this not, just lock the free running indirect drives from the Barrel?
    1 point
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